| Author | Message | ||
     Starbellied_sneetch |
Beware - Long first post LoL Hello all! I moved to a new house about 3.5 years ago, and since then my STT has sat, untouched and under a bike cover, beneath my back deck. The inspection expired in 2015, and it probably hasn't been started since then. I decided it was time to get it back on the road. I'll chronicle that here, starting with what I've done so far, and what I'm planning to do. Tips, advice, and encouragement are very welcome. Ever since it was brand-new, I never thought it ran right. It had sat in the showroom for 2 years before I bought it, so maybe the injectors were clogged or something, I don't know. It would hesitate and stumble, and if I gave it too much gas too fast it would almost stall. I only put 5,000 miles on it before parking it. Never bonded with it like I did my old XB-9. Anyway, here's what I've done so far: - Removed the throttle bodies and sent the injectors off to be cleaned and refurbished. Noticed that the seals between the intake and engine appeared to be leaking. Luckily, per this forum, I knew that it was a known issue, and I have to good ones on the way. I did manage to remove the intake without rotating the engine, but it was a fiddly puzzle. - Drained the old gas and removed the assembly containing the fuel filter and pump. Planning on replacing the fuel filter, and cleaning everything I can access. Did not see any signs that fuel had gelled. I will replace all rubber o-rings here and anywhere else I can find them. - Removed the muffler, which was a bit rusty. Will clean and repaint. - Checked the wheel bearings thoroughly. They have the orange seals. No signs of grittiness. Smooth operation but they feel tight/hard to turn. Not sure how tight they should be. I removed the dust seals and the bearings looked perfect, with no signs of moisture intrusion. Put a bit more grease in and put the seals back on. Listened with a stethoscope and could hear no grinding or anything. - New battery - New tires - New iridium spark plugs - All new fluids except for forks, because that seems like a massive pain in the ass. - Planning to squirt some oil into the spark plug holes before I start it. Would pre-lube by spinning the oil pump if I knew how to do that. Not sure it's even possible. - I have a Buelltooth on the way, so I can reset the TPS and maybe download and install the "Race tune for stock muffler" if anyone thinks that will help it run better. That's about all I can remember at the moment. Hopefully it will start right up and run well when I get it all back together! | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
Forgot to add - I'd also really like to lower it as much as reasonably possible. I've searched and read a bunch of different threads but still can't figure out exactly which shocks will fit and lower it an inch or two. If I'm reading correctly I think the SCG ones won't work for some reason. Am I incorrect? Can someone tell me which ones will work and why? In other news, the Buelltooth and the new battery arrived today! | ||
| Akbuell |
Another option might be to get another seat and have an inch or so of the padding removed. And, if memory serves, Corbin might have a seat available, or can modify yours. Could be less expensive, and less hassle, than reworking the suspension. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Froggy |
What seat do you have? The seat is the cheapest/easiest way to adjust your height. You can lower the bike to the same height as a regular Lightning by swapping in the shock off a 06/07 XB12SS, and the forks and kick stand off any 05+ Firebolt or regular height Lightning. | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
I had a super-comfy and slightly lower seat custom made by Rick Mayer. Not even sure he's around any more. But the seat isn't an option, unfortunately. Thanks for the tips on the suspension. I'd love to get it to where my '03 XB9 was. I could nearly flatfoot that. There are spacers available online but they lower the rear less than an inch, so that doesn't seem really worth it. I will hate to lose that plush STT ride though! So, the only progress I made yesterday was wire brushing and repainting the muffler. I have a Jardine that I could throw on there but not sure I want that noise, plus it's nice to have those jack points on the muffler. | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
Strange. I've edited this post but the edits don't seem to show up. Anyway, I was asking about how to remove the intake flanges, but I figured it out (couldn't be simpler). But what holds them on while I'm reinstalling the throttle body, then what force holds the throttle body onto the engine? I guess there are bolts that I'm not remembering. Strange system. (Message edited by starbellied_sneetch on May 20, 2020) | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
Does anyone know anything about the Hyperpro lowering spring kit here?: https://www.pureperformancecycles.com/hyperpro-low ering-spring-combi-kit-buell-xb12-x-ulysses.html It's for the Ulysses, but I thought the STT had the same suspension as the Uly. Obviously I could be wrong about that. | ||
| Froggy |
The Uly has longer forks and shock than your STT, hence the height difference but it is basically the same otherwise. Odds are if you used that kit it won't make a difference on your bike, maybe it would even raise it. | ||
| Tleighbell |
If you can't find the right suspension parts to sub out, a suspension specialist can lower your suspension by putting a shorter spring in the fork and a spacer in your shock. you'll have a little less suspension travel and might want stiffer springs to compensate. BTW i think i might have an '06-'07 XB12Ss rear shock lying around. | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
Tleighbell, if you have it, please let me know what you want for it. If it's not very expensive I'd probably buy it just to try it out and see what it does. Also, I'm only 140 pounds so travel height is probably not a concern! Froggy, thanks! (Message edited by starbellied_sneetch on May 21, 2020) | ||
| Akbuell |
About pre-lube, I would pull the plugs, squirt a small amount of oil in there, and then hit the starter on/off a few times with the plugs out. The oil light should go out after a few tries. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Buellish |
I lowered an '06 Uly back in 2007 by installing a Lightning Long shock and raising the handlebars so the forks could be raised in the triple clamps.As it happens,I just bought another '06 Uly and will do the same thing having already ordered a XB12SS shock.I'm having a bit of a hard time finding a top handlebar clamp to make a riser with. | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
Some progress has been made. . . I changed out the tires over the weekend. Discovered at that time that the front wheel bearings were definitely bad. Trying to make sure I get the best quality replacements. There must be a lot of fraud out there with bearings because I can get supposedly "Timken" and "SKF" bearings on-line for maybe 6-7 bucks, but they're 30-40 to buy locally. Also got news from the injector cleaning place that the flow results and inspection indicate that my injectors were perfect to begin with (and perfectly balanced). He cleaned and serviced them anyhow. Probably a waste of money but at least now I'm sure they're okay. At this point I just have to get my injectors back, get new front bearings, put it all back together, and hopefully everything works! | ||
| Tleighbell |
Sneetch, I'll let you know shortly about that shock, i might have to steal a hose off it for an Ohlins i am building (well, having built). If i can part with it i'll take $100 USD plus shipping from L5M 6C4 in Ontario, Canada | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
Thanks Tleighbell. Keep me posted on that. You're welcome to PM me or post here or whatever. Not much more progress today. I'm at the mercy of my buddy whose garage it is in, and he got busy with other stuff today. Removed the front wheel bearings and painted the drive belt sprocket. It looked horrible for some reason. Lots of paint chipped off. Looks great with some matte rust-oleum I had laying around. At this point I'm kind-of in a holding pattern until I buy some bearings, and my injectors are returned. Getting very excited about riding it. I'm going to buy SKF or Timken bearings from a local, authorized distributor even though they're about $40.00 each. There's no way that the ones online for 7 0r 8 bucks aren't Chinese knock-offs. Don't need to get stranded or even crash due to crappy bearings since this is a known issue on these bikes. (Message edited by starbellied_sneetch on May 25, 2020) | ||
| Skipbarberman |
No one seems to have answered you....I agree, knockoffs. Make sure they are legit, but should be way less than that.....If memory serves, like $15-$20 each sounds right. Just buy the correct, legit SKF. They are the best for this application, not the Timken. (Message edited by skipbarberman on May 25, 2020) | ||
| Falloutnl |
Planning to squirt some oil into the spark plug holes before I start it. Would pre-lube by spinning the oil pump if I knew how to do that. Not sure it's even possible. If you disconnect the spark plugs, open the oil filler plug and pressurize the reservoir with compressed air and run the starter, you can - I think - run some oil around the system without the bike running. - All new fluids except for forks, because that seems like a massive pain in the ass. True, but the returns on that investment are pretty massive. (Message edited by falloutnl on May 26, 2020) | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
Skipbarberman, the SKF bearings seem to be about 40 bucks each through the two authorized distributors around here (Applied Industrial Technologies and Motion Industries), or 8 bucks or so online (clearly knockoffs). If you know where I can buy legit SKF bearings for 20 bucks each, please let me know. I hate to spend twice as much if I don't have to. | ||
| Shoggin |
No need for all that, the reservoir is vented. Simply cranking it will be enough to circulate some oil, but unnecessary, IMO. If you just start it, the high idle will circulate higher pressure oil, faster, bikes have sat WAY longer than 3.5 years and re-started with no issue. You didn't mention it specifically so don't forget the brake fluid (hydroscopic) and pump all that bad ethanol gas out of the lines before you connect those clean injectors. The GEL battery needs to be 220CCA at a MINIMUM, Wal-mart won't cut it, and be careful the terminals are on the correct sides. No need for the forks unless mileage dictates it and Ya, Falloutnl is correct, it is worth it. IMO I would NOT mess with the tune or even a TPS re-set without knowing it at least starts and runs well FIRST. Those things didn't get affected by sitting. Have fun and post pics!  | ||
| Shoggin |
There are definitely some cheap bearings out there to be avoided, and bearing brand opinions are worse than another oil thread... I have never had an issue with the (probably Chinese) All Balls brand. However, I do ride a ton of miles and swap in new bearings when I change tires. Cheap insurance. | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
Thanks for the feedback and reminders! The battery I got is 320CCA. Just ordered my SKF bearings and the supply house will have them tomorrow. They ended up being about $30.00 each even though the website said they were about 40. Definitely planning to change the brake fluid. Bad gas should be out of everything. I drained it all, then took out the assembly with the fuel pump and filter, and changed the filter. Could see no signs of any gelling or anything else bad. Is the fork oil change a good idea because people are getting good results with a different brand/viscosity of oil, or just because new oil makes that much difference? Will post pics when I get it back together! I have these giant aluminum panniers on it, so it looks pretty dorky, but they really do the job. BTW, I now know more about bearings than I ever cared to know. For example, the front bearings are 6005-2RS. But SKF has 2RSL and 2RSH. The "H" stands for high pressure, and the seals are designed to keep out moisture. Supposedly they are designed to stand up to pressure washing. So I made sure to get the 6005-2RSH and not the 2RSL. Just a bit of info in case anyone needs bearings! (Message edited by starbellied_sneetch on May 26, 2020) | ||
| Skipbarberman |
https://www.qualitybearingsonline.com/compare/4226 5/14073 | ||
| Skipbarberman |
The primary difference is the grease that they are packed with, and how it's packed. Definitely worth it, and these guys are legit. | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
It runs!!!! Started it last night for the first time in 4-5 years. Got a bit of a scare when I pressed the starter button a few times and nothing happened. Maybe just some corrosion in the button, and after I pressed it a bunch of times it started to work. It idles smoothly, but will only start if I open the throttle VERY slightly. Won't start if I don't open the throttle, but once it starts it idles well. Perhaps I need to reset the TPS after all this work. Now I just need to put the airbox on and basically button everything back up. But here's the kicker: My registration expired 5 years ago, and because of the COVID stuff our DMV has been closed. I couldn't get an appointment to get a new registration until mid-July!  | ||
| Ducbsa |
If you are still in Richmond, look for a DMV Select https://www.dmv.virginia.gov/DMVLocator/DMV.aspx?L ocationType=S There is one a mile from me here in Berryville, but it has long lines, of course. | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
Got my plates and registration! There's a thing called "DMV Connect" that goes to different community centers for a few days at a time. Got it there. We were supposed to finish the bike last night (it's at my friend's house) and as soon as I got there we found out that our riding buddy had crashed. We hooked up a trailer and went out to pick up the bike. That process took up the evening. He got a broken clavicle and broken finger, but is okay otherwise. A real bummer. | ||
| Starbellied_sneetch |
Need help ASAP if someone can give it: There is an open vacuum port on the side of my throttle body. According to the service manual, this is where the EVAP hose connects to the carbon canister on California models only. Mine is not a CA model. It doesn't seem right to me to have an open vacuum port. Should I plug this port, or leave it open? | ||
| Froggy |
There used to be a plug on there, it is a common occurrence where if the bike backfires through the intake that it shoots it off. Leaving it uncapped doesn't affect how the bike runs, the worst it does is allows unfiltered air into the throttle body/engine. Plug it up but don't be surprised if it comes off again. | ||
| Shoggin |
I have found non-california bikes still have that fitting, and no plug. It isn't drilled through the TB. Easy to check yours though, start it, raise the idle, and put your thumb on it. No vacuum, no problem. If you feel vacuum, add a plug. As sensitive as Buells are to intake changes (TB horn to air box base seal comes to mind), I would think any bike would run terribly with a huge 5/16" open vacuum leak! | ||
| Froggy |
It is above the throttle plate, so it isn't something uncontrolled like a vacuum leak |
