| Author | Message | ||
     Billy_bee |
How hard is it going to be to keep my Uly on the road? I've had my Ulysses for almost 10 years now. It has about 50k on it, and I love riding it. It's been off the road for a few years, however. I just have not had time to ride much. Got back into racing. Well, I want to go riding more. I have been riding my DR650 around a good bit, but it's time to get the Uly on the road. So, I ordered a battery for it, and plan to get is started up and check it out. It was running quite well when I parked it, save for some warpage in the front rotor, which is really a bummer as I got the upgraded (6mm?) front rotor. Anyway, once I check it out for rideability and road-worthiness, I am worried that I won't be able to find parts to keep it going. No more EBR. No more American Sport Bike. What's a Uly rider to do? So, I am debating selling or parting it and getting something a little more modern. The Moto Guzzi V85TT looks sweet, and I love the way a Guzzi rides. How are you all doing keeping your Ulysses' on the road? --bb | ||
| Tempest766 |
Mine is sitting in the garage with leaky rear cylinder seals causing the fan to foul out...and I have zero tolerance for what it takes to acquire parts and work on the thing...so it's part-out time unless someone wants to buy it intact at a fair price. The FJR is a better bike for my needs right now, and I hope to supplement it with a DR650 for national forest camping when this lockdown crap is over...so yeah, dealing with the same thoughts/concerns that you are. | ||
| Court |
I hedge$ my bet by purchasing about 1, 2 or 3 of everything* American Sport Bike sold when Al was winding up. | ||
| Tpehak |
None of the European motorcycles is more reliable than Buell. So you can imagine how much trouble you will have with Guzzi if you are not happy with your Buell. Just buy new Japanese motorcycle. | ||
| Arry |
If you stay there will be trouble If you go it will be double | ||
| Pushr0d |
I bought an '08 a year ago. Had to mess with various things to fix several things PO's had done to it. It runs great, and it puts a smile on my face. I just had to replace the stator. It was a HD/Buell part, and it had a March 2019 manufacture date. That, and other Buell parts I've bought from Newcastle and St. Paul HD all seem to be recently produced. Considering other bikes, the amount of electronics and related devices makes me suspect their reliability with age. | ||
| Giarcg |
Went through the same analysis the OP is a while ago. I concluded that barring a collision causing structural damage the only part I could not repair, substitute elsewhere or source was the front isolator so I bought a spare. Clutch cable as well since they are cheap. There are no doubt more but I'm comfortable with that. | ||
| Tootal |
Personally I'd keep it as long as it's running well. I haven't found a bike out there that could replace it. BMW has gotten so complicated I just don't have any desire to deal with one. I prefer the light weight and the fact it's really tall. I need tall but most manufacturers try to lower the bikes so more people can ride them but they don't fit me. I think I'm over 50,000 now. It burns a little oil but it always has. Something I may fix next Winter. | ||
| Teeps |
Billy_bee I've been where you are at. But, after 12 years of riding my '06 Ulysses. I felt it was time for a change... that and, though seldom needed, parts were getting harder to acquire, in a timely fashion. Parting "it" out: shipping oversize parts is extremely costly... don't ask me how I know. Good luck with which ever way you go. | ||
| Nillaice |
my uncles nephew often says; it's better the devil you know than the one you don't. if you're just bored with the bike and want to get a brand new one, then parts availability is a good excuse (and has been for a few years) to use. parting out takes time and space until it's all gone. id think its worth a set of EBC-HH sintered brake pads to cure that front brake pulsation and maybe ride it to demo some new bikes, that way you get a back to back comparison and/or a standard to compare them against. | ||
| Tootal |
Another point on the brakes. Get it up to a high speed and hammer the front brakes. This seems to burn off the deposits obtained over time. I just do this occasionally and the problem has never come back. | ||
| Pushr0d |
I can't see that big hoop 'warping'. Pulsation is usually some gorp on the disc, or the disc may be 'sticking' in one or more bobbins. Give the disc a good clean with some steel wool and brake cleaner, wipe it clean with more brake cleaner and paper towels. You might spray each of the mounting bobbins with brake cleaner and tap the disc with a block of wood or non-metal hammer. Then take it out and heat the disc and pads up with several high-speed (60-ish), medium pressure braking events. You'll smell it when they get hot enough. | ||
| Billy_bee |
Hi guys: Thanks or your posts and thoughts. I love riding the bike. It's the parts availability and the cost of those parts that concerns me the most. I know once I get the bike running and on the road that I will fall in love with it again. But while I'm worrying about Buell parts, I might as well think about what else I might ride. I replaced the front isolator a few thousand miles ago, but I recently read where a belt costs $180 now. That's about 50% more than I paid for the last belt I bought. I know I'm not alone no matter which side of the fence I fall on--it IS a unique machine and a great ride. It can also be a little finicky and is starting to get expensive to maintain and repair. I have not tried to get any new parts for it for a while. I think when I do need to find something and hit a dead end, that may mean curtains for my Buell ownership. Although, like somebody said, I could double down...buy a parts bike and have a spare everything... Thanks, Bill | ||
| Tpehak |
Install chain conversion. | ||
| 1125cr_trackday_rider |
@Tpehak Is anybody making an "off the shelf" chain conversion for the 1125r/cr bikes?(!) Would seem to be an elaborate conversion process due to the inability to adjust the rear wheel to maintain chain tension(?) I've pondered finding/buying an EBR 1190 salvage/parts bike(s) for just that reason (and others) Currently going through charging system stator woes (left me stranded on a ride to the "Dragon") and the complexity and costs keep going up and up... In 2011 I rode a 35 year old (1976) First gen Honda Gold Wing to California and back without serious issues. Over the past ten years I've also taken several Dragon/Daytona trips on early Gold Wings without incident. But my dream bike 2009 1125cr (Pristine, never weathered low (2000 total miles, acquired with only 1000mi) left me stranded on my first trip out of state. I know that serviceability is a constant running theme of uncertainty and expense for Buell and EBR in general and EVERYTHING is being reduced to cost/benefit equation where nothing is cost effective to repair. Not just planned obsolescence but ENGINEERED obsolescence! Being an orphaned brand has compounded these issues! These issues are straight forward to address but the climate of dis-information, poor information, rumor and hearsay (and absurdly high costs) make keeping these amazing motorcycles in service a frustrating task. Sorry for the rant... Sometimes I just have to vent... :-\ | ||
| Shoggin |
1125cr: Don't feed the Troll  I would have to disagree with the "absurdly high cost' remark when referring Buells or even EBR's. Sure, everyones tolerance for $$ is different, but I can't honestly think of a cheaper performance bike to maintain? A few hundred bucks for a known charging system permanent FIX is a very small drop in the bucket of a single Ducati valve adjust. | ||
| 1125cr_trackday_rider |
Context: $219.00+- for Rick's stator $200/400 for "modified" rotor depending on who/what/where/how you plan on proceeding $75.00 for special locking tool to get the rotor off/on (How many times are you going to need this tool?) $50.00/100 (rough estimate) for the incidentals for the charging system repair/upgrades (Crankshaft nut, stator cover gasket, oil, chemicals, etc.) $180+-(?) for replacement drive belt (if you can even find one now and into the future. Then further possible future landmines with wheel bearing longevity, brake issues, ECM/electronics etc. I knew the charging system monster was lurking. Already dealt with the clutch slave cylinder failure. I was just hoping to get a little more riding in before dealing with the stator "cluster fox trot"!  Is this "absurdly" high? IDK, everything is relative. Cost isn't the only factor here, complexity for nearly everything else is crushing me trying to keep this bike on the road. Quality of materials in the construction of these Buell/Hardly Davidsons and everything else produced in the "modern times" along with other issues raised here and on numerous threads EVERYWHERE not to mention replacement costs are driving everybody away in droves! I LOVE my 1125cr! I acquired it in 2016, never titled and still on it's original MSO, always stored in a climate controlled space, never left outside. Just under 1000 miles on it. It is the most natural riding, powerful, balanced motorcycle I've ever thrown a leg over! It has character and soul missing from most products produced today, sadly that soul was created with a critical flaw. The DNA was corrupted by the unholy alliance with "The Motor Company's corporate greed, lowest common denominator penny pinching and callous disregard for the end user. Contempt for the end user is rampant throughout society. If Amazon or Tesla were producing Buells they would be reliable and solid as an anvil. Sold/subsidized and supplied at sustainable costs. All that would be fine if you could live with giving up your privacy and anonymity with regard to how you use it. Sometimes the totality of it all is soul crushing... | ||
| 1125cr_trackday_rider |
And cost comparisons to Ducati??? Yeah, I don't exist in that rarefied atmosphere... :-\ | ||
| Froggy |
While some parts have become more expensive over the years, the belt isn't one of them. It has been basically the same price for 10 years now, it went up a few bucks after production of bikes ended in 09 but has been pretty solid since. Buell 1125CR mirrors however are now $300 a side. | ||
| Billy_bee |
OK, I got the bike out of the garage, installed a new battery, and it started right up. Aired up the tires and rolled it out front. Cleans up pretty well. I'm pretty much ready to ride and halfway to falling in love all over again... Photographic evidence:   --bb | ||
| Billy_bee |
Well I took the Uly for a little spin today. It was really nice to be reminded of all the things that are good about it and the few things that are not so good. Overall, it's running well. No more pulsation in the front brakes after I pressure washed all the rotor hardware. I forgot to mention a few little extras I have on the bike that make it more valuable to me: Heated grips, wired for heated vest/jacket with a rheostat, hard wired for GPS, I have hard and soft bags, tank bag, tail bag, little Buell-branded, under-seat-cubby bag, the thingies that make the windscreen adjustable, and I have a spare 3-bearing wheel that I have yet to mount. It's going on once I wear out my current rear tire. When I think about setting up a bike to my liking (after I actually find a bike worth messing' with), I am pretty happy to stay with the Uly until I reach a parts-acquisition impasse. Even then, I may be able to make some parts that can be fixed up on a mill or lathe. I'm gonna take a close look at the front isolator, for example. Maybe we can make something to replace it. Anyway, I think I have my answer. Run it until I can't run it anymore...then part it out. --bb | ||
| Tootal |
and the few things that are not so good. Just curious, what are those things? Somebody might have already figured out a solution. BTW, you need to get rid of that orange fly screen, it's really slowing you down!!  | ||
| Tleighbell |
similar dilemma for me. love the Uly but concerned about keeping it alive. so far, i have not had a problem with parts and i expect there will be parts available one way or another for a while. I did stock up on some of the consumables. Had to do a bit of work lately (my own damn fault) which was frustrating but i'm sure it will be forgotten once up and riding again. Anyway, my plan is to keep the Uly forever but i am planning on getting a back up bike. BTW, for parts, everyone knows St. Paul's HD but another good source is MIdatlantic Cycle in Leola Pa. | ||
| Billy_bee |
----and the few things that are not so good. --Just curious, what are those things? Somebody might have already figured out a solution. Well, the heat under the seat and on my right inner thigh is annoying. I don't ride much in hot weather; so, not a huge deal, but I'm very interested in a solution for that. The paint shaker effect at idle is annoying, too. Forget mounting an iPhone to your handlebars. Not much we can do about that. Dynamically, there is one little nit--the bike does not initiate turns quickly. It is not flickable. You would think the light weight would mean it's easy to toss into a corner, but I think the gyroscopic action of the engine makes the initial turn-in a little more challenging. Once I lean the bike into a corner, it is amazing. The rear brake lacks power. I wish it had 1/4th of the braking force of the front brake. I use a lot of rear brake for trail braking. Not enough oomph for that--forget getting it to lock up... Overall, a lot more things to love about it then dislike. I'm hooked again. --bb | ||
| Pushr0d |
Billy_bee, try cranking up the rear preload to see if that helps your steering. If the rear sags too much, it'll increase the front rake. I'd suggest lowering your trees (raising the fork tubes), but it appears you've already done that. | ||
| Tootal |
One thing I've noticed about the handling and that's if your down just 2 psi in your tires it makes a huge difference. I've never owned a bike that was this picky about tire pressure. If I take off I can tell in the first corner if a tire is low. I turn around and go home and check them. Sure enough, one or both will have lost a couple of pounds. Otherwise the amount of counter steering required to initiate a turn is minimal. I'm not saying you don't have an issue, it's just that handling was not even on my radar as a fault. The heat, yes! I put my knees in the wind on a hot day! Rear brake, yes, it's made from wood! I was able to use ECMSPY to reprogram my idle. It's much smoother now than when stock but it is a V-twin. All of that goes away on a twisty road! | ||
| Nillaice |
comfort kit (under seat fan shroud, new engine air scoop and header shield) makes a difference in felt heat. i rotated the engine and insulated the frame with some DEI foil tape at the same time. rear brake may have been engineered out of a balsa sapling to be light and weak, because ... well, RACEBIKE! lol i got pretty good at locking up the rear when i was trying to kill an old tire, so it's possible for me on my bike but my calves are almost noteworthy and my rear brake now squeals under light pedal pressure. tire wear and deformation will affect handling. i find the nylon belted brands don't hold their profile as well as cabled tires. for example a pirelii i ran until it was paper thin still had a good profile, even for as worn as it was. the bargain basement shinkos i've ran since look and ride great at first but seem to flatten out in a matter of months. bridgestones seen to be better and cycle gear likes to mark them down playing with tire pressures and a new stock front and 190 rear tire can sharpen the turn-in ... but all bikes ride better with new tires at proper inflation that uly you've got there looks to be well accessorized and mint! still has the swinggy sticker. i really like the 'safety third' | ||
| Billy_bee |
Hi guys: I have really enjoyed this discussion. I rode the bike for a few hours yesterday and realize I am having trouble with the tire pressures. The rear has a leak at the bead. So, I have to pop the rear wheel off and A) replace it (I have a 3-bearing wheel with tire ready to swap on)--or--B) break the bead on the rear tire and smear some bead sealer in there. That could be affecting handling. I was running 36psi in the rear and after two hours, I was down to 28. I am running 32 in the front. So, that may be a problem, but I do recall the steering feeling heavy at turn in, but not as pronounced as it is now. Either way, I am getting accustomed to it. I weigh 210 (prolly 225 with my summer gear on) and those pressures seemed to work for me. What tire pressures do others run? --bb | ||
| Littlebuggles |
I'm running 36 front and 38 out back, turns in really nice on The Scorpion Sync (3's?) I have on it now... most of my riding is pavement. I also dig the "Safety Third" sticker, it's amusing. Good looking Uly | ||
| Tootal |
Yes, 36 front, 38 rear. Anything less and it's slow to turn. These are also the book numbers. |
