| Author | Message | ||
     Mstrfrz |
So to recap, My '99X1 runs pretty well after an extended warmup. I've taken to starting it before I gear up now. Living in TX, ambient temp is usually plenty warm to fire it up and ride, but not so much anymore. It's been suggested that I have all the symptoms of a lean condition at warmup- coughing through the intake, hesitation, and generally running crappy. My AFV is at the upper set limit of 110. I tried the intake leak test and it passed. New seals have been ordered anyway. I'm wondering if this may be related to my injectors. Factory ones flow 205 cc/min and the ones I have now are 218. They are shorter too, making for a less-than-ideal angle into the intake manifold. I thought the ECM might have held back because of the extra flow, but that AFV shows it dumping more fuel. Otherwise, my other complaint is not being able to get my 3-wire turn signals to be marker lights as well.   | ||
| Mstrfrz |
does it run fine after warming up because whatever is leaking has swelled up and sealed? Shouldn't that bring down the AFV? I've since set the AVF limit to 105 via Buelltooth and ECMdroid. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Lean condition with cold intake manifold goes away when warm? How old are the seals between the manifold and the heads? | ||
| Mstrfrz |
Yes, it goes away after it warms up. I bought it used in 2000, and unless someone did it it the dead of night, I know I've never changed the intake gaskets. | ||
| Normthenomad |
Take some non-flammable parts cleaner and spray around intake seals and see if it makes any change in the idle. If it does you have an intake leak. Those seals are made of a rubber compound and are 20 years old,and would be the very first thing to check. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
You said you tried the intake leak test and it passed.... did you do the test while the engine was warm or still cold? If you're only having problems when it's cold, I'd try the test when the engine is still cold. If that's when you did it, then just disregard my question. As far as the turn signals... I can possibly help. How have you tried wiring them in? I just hooked up a set up 3 wire turn signals that double as running lights up front and brake lights in the back. Are yours made to function as running lights internally, or are they just lights with 2 power wires and you need to sort out how the lights actually function? | ||
| Mstrfrz |
I did the leak test as soon as I started it, so as cold as it could be. Seals on the way anyway. Turn signals will work as running/brake lights. NOT as running/turn. Wired them just as you'd expect. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I didn't really expect anything, I'm not very electrically minded when it comes to vehicles. My signals are LEDs and all the electronics are already sorted out inside the signals, constant power to the running lights, and when the turn signals turn on, they automatically shut off the running/brake lights. If that's not the case with yours and you hooked one wire to the normal signal wires, and the other to a hot, the lights would just stay on all the time because they wouldn't know which was which. Someone who knows this stuff better than me will hopefully come along and fill in the blanks for me, but I think you're going to have to wire in some kind of relays so when you hit the turn signal switch it uses that power to close the power to the running/brake lights, and lets the signals do their thing on their own. I wouldn't be able to do that without some research, but I'm thinking you'd need a 5 prong relay and you'd feed it off of the wire coming off of the signal switch in the hand controls. Actually I guess you'd need a separate one for each side. The 4 prong relays just turn power on and off, but the 5 prongs switch the power between 2 things, so I'd think that'd be the way to go so the lights could bounce back and forth between two different functions. Hope that helps, like I said it's not a subject I know a ton about, but it is something I was digging around in a month or two ago, so there's still a little info bouncing around in my brain. | ||
| Mstrfrz |
The turn signals have ground, a dim and a bright wire. Constant on to the dim (running lights) and respective turn signal to the bright. Works for running and brake. Just not turns. I figure there's some sort of feedback and that I need some diodes to isolate things. I did change out the flasher so load is not an issue. | ||
| Screamer |
Another item to consider on early X1 models with chronic cold start issues is the manifold width. The manifold width (across the manifold - port to port) was slightly ‘too narrow’ on early X1 models. The symptoms could vary in severity depending on how the heads were positioned, how well the the manifold was centered, how much stress a mis-positioned support plate may have put on the whole assembly and other factors. The manifold had a couple of revisions, and I believe the first was to address the width. Usually the symptoms aligned with leaking seal behavior and sometimes disappeared completely when the engine was warm. Sometimes the symptoms appeared only after an engine re-assembly that changed manifold to head fitment (head rotation, manifold centering - etc.) Because I wanted to be certain that my memory wasn’t failing (completely), I grabbed a handful of manifolds and measured front cylinder spigot to rear spigot - across the manifold at the widest point. Although it isn’t the most precise method it at least provided some results. Manifolds that had a media texture surface on the compression seal spigot (to the heads), also had a pin stamp “TBM-1”. Those were smaller than the manifolds that had a machined appearance to the seal spigot. Those with the “machined” spigots were also pin stamped “TBM-1A” or “TBM-2” and measured .035-.045” wider than those stamped TBM-1. Having a “TBM-1” does not mean you need to toss it and get a 1A or 2. It means that any time the manifold is removed, it should be carefully assembled. Some common sense items are keeping the manifold centered between the heads while tightening the clamps, tweaking the support clamp so it properly aligns with the air intake horn without forcing/prying it into alignment. If the heads are removed for some reason, a trial alignment/fitment of the manifold should be done before torquing the heads. Things to consider if you have an early X1 with chronic cold start behavior issues... | ||
| Falloutnl |
coughing through the intake, hesitation, and generally running crappy. My dad's 2002 M2 Cyclone did this and, after we tore it down recently, we found that the following things were going on: - the intake flanges were (somehow) bent and - the valves weren't seated properly from the factory Don't suppose you're all that eager to tear it down to such a degree, but they're things you can look at if you decide to proceed. | ||
| Mstrfrz |
I've had this bike 20 years and hasn't always acted this way/Intake seals are on order, and when they come in I'll look into the Manifold.if it's off or out of whack, my guess wold be the seals, as this bike has run like a champ in the past with whatever manifold it has. I'll also redo the leak test as soon as I start it and not give it any chance to warm up. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Don't forget the injector o-rings. For me, easier to just buy new ones and replace. Make sure you put lots of goop all over them before installing. | ||
| Mstrfrz |
new injector rings when I replaced the injectors a couple months ago. | ||
| Mstrfrz |
New seals came a few days early, so I took it apart. Old seals were still soft, and no signs of leaks.  | ||
| Mstrfrz |
replaced the seals. Took a ride @ 60F and general crappiness at first. Felt like running on one cylinder. Put it into open loop and did 20 miles on the freeway. Pretty good. Engine light flickered, trouble code was lean O2, which is to be expected in Open loop. Went away when driving slow. Started to get a pretty bad miss, so I put it into closed loop for the ride home, miss went away. Throttle response and power was smoother and not as savage as open loop. I like savage. Will do another leak test soon to see if maybe I put something together wrong. (Message edited by Mstrfrz on April 28, 2020) |
