| Author | Message | ||
     Bgbrd |
Quite a while ago I posted a thread concerning steadily increasing excessive vibes on my 98 S3T. this is way above the normal vibes at idle and literally moves the bike backwards on its sidestand and rattles the fairing and saddlebag lids. At speed it does not smooth out that much and you can't see out the mirrors. This didnt happen all at once but has become worse over time. Several of you responded with things like broken, loose motor mount bolts, and failed isolators and these all checked out good. I even questioned possibly shifted flywheels but this checked out OK with a dial indicator check on the crank. Can Isolators get stiff over time? It's kind of the only thing left to check. Any ideas? I've had this machine since 99 and would like to keep her going. Also, have broken luggage latches, anyone know where to get replacements? | ||
| Two_seasons |
Regarding isolators...rubber does rot over time. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
The latches are NLA. I figured mc motoworx or twinmotorcycles would have manufactured new hardware by now. Maybe not enough demand. Usually the little pot metal arm in the latch actuator breaks and you have to drill a hole and trip the latch with a screwdriver. What part of your latches are broken out of curiousity? As for the vibes, If you have the updated latest style Isolators all around (the ones with the ears on the rear and the one with the large round washer underneath up front), it may be worth checking your compression, put in fresh plugs, maybe one cylinder is pounding harder than the other. Idk what else it could be. Nearly all of my buells walked backward on the kickstand but the blast was the worst, only one cylinder and lots of engine movement  | ||
| Screamer |
I agree with Two Seasons - rubber can degrade over time, Failing engine and exhaust isolators can contribute to an increase in vibration. I have some new saddlebag latches - I’ll send a PM. | ||
| Bgbrd |
Concerning the latches, yes those little die cast levers broke off. This was due I think to using spray grease on the latch hooks and having them accumulate dirt over time and become stiff. It would be best to clean off old grease and lube them with something light like Tri Flow with Teflon or the like. I haven't done anything with this bike in a while, Where would be the best place to get isolators these days? | ||
| H0gwash |
After my latches broke I removed them and spent several fussy hours building little latch doors out of scrap piano hinge parts and random pieces to replace them:   They simply provide secure access to the mechanism the latch triggers, and I just trigger it with my finger. The unmodified locking mechanism is Defender Security U-9941, $5 at Home Depot. The trick is looking at all the packages at Home Depot or wherever to find two locksets with the same key code. If I were to do it again, I would turn up one corner of the flat door to make it easier to open with a thumb. Not stock but cheap. | ||
| Bgbrd |
Concerning the latches, yes those little die cast levers broke off. This was due I think to using spray grease on the latch hooks and having them accumulate dirt over time and become stiff. It would be best to clean off old grease and lube them with something light like Tri Flow with Teflon or the like. I haven't done anything with this bike in a while, Where would be the best place to get isolators these days? | ||
| Bgbrd |
Oops sorry for the double post! | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Engine isolators are still available; I bought a set of the latest style rear isolators in February and the latest front isolator a few months ago, all from St. Paul Harley Davidson/Buell online store. They are probably available from other former Buell dealers, as well. | ||
| Screamer |
Bgbrd, I sent an email with photos of the new latches. Thanks - R | ||
| Bgbrd |
Thanks I'll check it out. Also does anyone have the part numbers for front and rear isolators. I guess I'll change them and see what happens. | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
St. Paul has both left and right rear isolators listed as a set: L0504.9/L0505.9 The latest front isolator kit, which has a 7/16" center bushing, bolt and washers (instead of the original 1/2"), is part number L1501.8 ... but is no longer listed by St. Paul. The isolator without the needed 7/16" bolt and washers is sold by Harley Davidson as part number 16207-79D. There are reproduction isolators available with the larger 1/2" hole, but they are stiffer than the original. I noticed that St. Paul sells the newest isolator kit for the Blast, part number 1501.T. The isolator is the same but the hardware that is provided with the kit will be incorrect for the S3. (Message edited by Mikes bikes on March 19, 2020) | ||
| Upthemaiden |
and if you do pick up one of the newer front isolators with the 7/16 bolt, just save yourself some headache/worry and pick up one of these reducers on ebay. Some people drill their new isolators out to use the old 1/2" bolt, some people just stick the 7/16" bolt through the 1/2" hole in the engine mount and hope for the best. This will fill that gap so the bolt fits perfectly and you won't need to start drilling out the structural parts of your bike.  In case that image ever stops working in the future, search ebay for "heim reducer 7/16 1/2" (Message edited by upthemaiden on March 19, 2020) | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I just put the thing on there per the directions. I figure there’s a method to the madness. No ill effects on the 5 I’ve installed. | ||
| Bgbrd |
Have isolators in hand, will be a little while till I get them replaced. Will keep you posted.cross your fingers and toes, wish me luck. | ||
| Bgbrd |
OK, finally have isos installed. have a few hundred miles on them with some sucess. vibes are still harsh at idle though not quite as bad as before. above 3000 rpm things are smoother than before and I can use the mirrors now and it is comfortable to ride at speed so I'm satisfied with that. Thanks to Screamer I now have some working bag latches. Now one last thing, I would like to lower this bike at least 1" and was considering using the front shock mount for the 14"shock with the 16" shock it has now.That would be apx a 2" setback. would this lower the bike too much? has anyone done this before? | ||
| H0gwash |
2" will be too much, I think the frame will hit the top of the tire. I think you're looking for a westek lowering shock mount- someone in the following links suggested calling the factory. The second page of the second link has a pic of what I had welded up and which is still on my bike: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/820295.html http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/disc us.cgi?pg=prev&topic=47623&page=769403 | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Using a 14" shock with the 16" shock mount will lower the rear end nearly 4". Way to low as the rear tire will hit the oil tank and frame. Although this setup works great on our S3 trike! Increases the front fork rake, which is just what is needed for a trike. |
