| Author | Message | ||
     Portero72 |
Just spitballing here. Stripped out the oil drain on the Uly today and and feeling fairly irate about it. This is the second bolt on two Buells it’s happened on. No, I’m not a noob, nor was I Mongo-ing the wrench as I was tightening. This irritating stuff is the price you pay for loving the brand. I did a Time Sert on my old bike and might go that way again, but was wondering if there was a simpler solution, such as tapping the hole for the next size up. Thoughts? | ||
| _buelligan_ |
In the Harley world its pretty common to just go up to a size bigger. Timeserts are also very good, I have them and use them when needed, they're pricey if you don't already have the tap set for them. If you're still in the Austin area, I'm the Buell guy at Central Texas Harley-Davidson and we have the non-magnetic oversized drainplugs in stock if you need one. | ||
| Portero72 |
Buelligan- Do those oversized plugs just screw in and cut their own threads? | ||
| _buelligan_ |
They are tapered and cut for self threading.  | ||
| Firemanjim |
Any decent auto parts store will have the oversize as at least the drain plug is not metric, and with wrong torque in the early manuals and ham fisted mechanics I had to use these a bunch, worked great. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
https://buell-parts.com/Stahlbus-Oelablass-Ventil- Buell-XB-Modelle This is also a nice solution. | ||
| Portero72 |
I tried to used the self cutting bolts and just butchered it. I wound up getting the next size up tap and corresponding bolt. Torqued to 12 ft lbs. It’s holding nicely. Thx for all the help. | ||
| Ourdee |
Mark, Do you remember what the next size up tap and bolt was? | ||
| Ourdee |
Tootall, Is there a different tap I should use on aluminum as compared to steel? | ||
| Shoggin |
No. A tap for steel will be fine. Bottoming tap or not won't matter, but Be careful of pipe taps and NC or NO. Use the correct drill bit ONLY, use a tap handle, and make sure the tool is square when you start threading. It should go easy, but if it starts to get difficult to turn, back off a bit and start again. Put grease on the tap to catch as many shavings as you can and pour a cheap quart of oil through the arm to flush whats left, but don't panic, the oil in the swingarm goes right to the filter so any minor shaving will be caught before they get to the engine. Because the drain plug seats and seals with an O-ring, it's important to make sure theres no sharp edges left where it seals. A hand countersink works well for that even if the new plug comes with a copper washer instead of the o-ring (not sure what kit you got). | ||
| Tootal |
RD, if you're tapping the hole for the first time it won't matter. Many holes in aluminum are form tapped and not cut. This makes the threads tougher. You don't want to clean a thread with a tap after it's been form tapped because you might take out some metal which makes it weaker. That's why they make thread cleaners. BTW, I learned this about 2 years ago so guilty of doing the wrong thing for years!! | ||
| Ourdee |
TooTall, I will discuss this with you at Two's. I bought the bike with a plug that was not the original. The plug had chrome plating and some of that bad. My plan has been to replace it at some point. I have never tapped a hole this large in aluminum before. | ||
| Shoggin |
Tootal, If he was just cleaning buggered threads that is a VERY good point about thread taps vs thread chasers. You're a pro!  | ||
| Etennuly |
Rrrddd, put some thick axle grease in the ways on the drill bit and the tap. That'll keep control of your shavings. Fresh boogers will work too! | ||
| Evilphoton |
the oil in the swingarm goes right to the filter so any minor shaving will be caught before they get to the engine. oil goes to the pump first then it's forced to the filter. it all needs to be clean as possible. | ||
| Ourdee |
I plan on grease then a flush. Then I will scope it and go fishing if need be. Do y'all recommend teflon tape on the new plugs threads?  | ||
| Shoggin |
No need for teflon tape, it doesn't seal on the threads like a tapered pipe thread. It seals on the o-ring. Make sure you use a new o-ring every time. They come in 10 packs from H-D for a reason, lol | ||
| Ourdee |
Teflon is the old joke. | ||
| Falloutnl |
What is the correct torque for those plugs anyway? | ||
| Griffmeister |
I don’t use Teflon tape but I do put a little pipe dope on the threads. Not for sealing, more as a vibration damper. You feel a little more secure when the plug doesn’t just spin out but instead needs a little help. Just be sure to use the non hardening stuff. | ||
| Ourdee |
I am seriously thinking I'll drill it for safety wire. | ||
| Shoggin |
Without looking it up in the Buell Manual... IIRC 30-32in/lbs Nothing wrong with overkill, but is there really a problem with Buell drain plugs falling out? 30in/lbs is barely over hand tight and I have never heard that before. The mistake in the manual was ft/lbs instead of in/lbs. I'm boggled that anyone smart enough to use a torque wrench, thinks 30+ FT/lbs on a O-ringed bolt is anywhere near OK. #Buellizms, lol | ||
| Ourdee |
I only want to do the safety wire because I think safety wire is a neat look. | ||
| Griffmeister |
What are you going to tie the wire to? Drill a hole in the swing arm? | ||
| Ourdee |
Of course! There is an oil hose with a clamp near enough to it. My first bolts to safety wire would probably be the cam cover ones, if I ever do it. | ||
| Shoggin |
Do it! It is a good look too I'm better by hand than using that dang tool  Get a drill jig though. It gets expensive to try and buy all the specialty bolts pre-drilled. I'm lucky to have a huge aerospace presence right next door and I buy crazy F-9 safety drilled surplus hardware by the pound  | ||
| Portero72 |
Ourdee I think I used a 14mm bit and plug. Used a socket to turn it by hand. Greased the bit to catch the flakes and flushed it a cpl times with some cheap oil. | ||
| Ourdee |
Thanks. | ||
| Sagehawk |
a bit late here, but 96 road king has worst castings ive seen. same as buell 1/2-13 tpi for bolt size. I bought first oversize offered at oreilly. flanged bolt at that. used grease and dry run first time threading it in. cleaned it up best I could. bought copper washers for flanged bolt. there is enough metal for copper gasket to seat against on housing. used the Loctite pipe sealant buell call for on threads and 10 -12 ft/lbs to tighten. I bought standard thread bolts for buell with copper gaskets. no more issues for years now. when bolt is pulled for oil change, throw it in vice, hi speed die grinder with wire wheel. whip it clean and apply more sealant. works for me. take care yall! | ||
| Sagehawk |
Sorry on thread size and pitch here. Let me correct that. That is 1/2-20 tpi on those drain bolts. |
