| Author | Message | ||
     Upthemaiden |
My heated grips are currently hooked straight to the battery. I wired them in to a plug that matches the battery tender(type on the left side of the picture) so I can just plug them in when needed. I'd like to wire them in somewhere on the other side of the ignition so I can't accidentally leave them plugged in. My initial thought was the plug for the rear license plate light, which I no longer have. I had just wrapped up that plug in tape to protect it from water, and ziptied it out of the way. My question, for anyone who actually know electrical stuff well enough... watts, amps, volts and what not.... is that a decent enough spot to power some heated grips?? As silly as it is that they used the same exact plug for the plate light and the sidestand switch, considering they're right next to each other, it works out because I can just cut up my previously removed switch for the plug and plug them directly in, without having to hack up the wiring harness at all, but I wouldn't even know where to start with the math on that one. Black wire is the plug I'm looking at. White one was for the sidestand switch.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
No, the tag light circuit won't handle the power draw. If you want to use that circuit, use it to trigger a relay that turns on the grips. Usually grip kits come with a relay harness - the "heavy" power side goes right to the battery, and there is a switched lead that goes to a source like your tag light, to turn the relay on and off when needed. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I did find people recommending that when I was searching the forum. This post was pretty much the only information I was able to find... http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/6 56147.html?1319477632 Someone posted a link to more information about it, but unfortunately the link is dead now. I'll do some more research about wiring in a distribution block and a relay. I originally thought of that wire because I picked up some turn signals that also have daytime running lights(and brake lights). I figured I could use those wires to power the running lights, as I can't see any reason the plate light wiring shouldn't be able to run 2 LED lights instead, but then I figured while I was wiring things, I might as well update the grips as well. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I put some Koso heated grips on my ural, first I tapped into the low beam because it was high draw and switched power. Worked fine until I started the bike then the grips would go into “self protect” mode. Anyway, ended up using the low beam as switched power for a relay using battery power to run the grips. Works great now. I bought a 10 pack of relays, I can send you one if you’d like. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
https://sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23 &t=55721 | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Thanks! I originally thought about trying to use the headlight wire for my running lights, but the problem is most of the time I ride with my hi-beam on during the daytime, so whether I went for hi or low, the running lights are only going to be on part time. I was thinking about installing a distribution block like I've seen people using, so I could hook various things up to it, like the running lights, heated grips, my usb outlet(also currently wired into a battery tender plug in case it's needed). Honestly though this bike only ever goes back and forth to work, I don't see a reason I'd really need to wire anything else to it. I'll probably just hook the running lights straight to the tail light plug, hook the grips to the battery, and run that license plate wire to the relay as well. The grips are only on in winter, so I could even leave the battery tender plug on them, hook up a tender plug to the relay, and then still be able to plug anything into it in the future like my phone or a GPS if I'd ever have the desire. Thanks for the offer on the relay! I haven't done any research into what kind I would need yet, but I assumed I was looking at $10-12 at the auto parts store? By the time I sent you some money for one and covered the shipping, and you spent your time running it to the post office, it's probably just as easy for me to go grab one. One thing I wouldn't mind is if you could pass along what type of relay I'd need to take out the guess work. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I think a 5 pack on eBay cost me $9 delivered lol. I can throw one in an envelope first class for less than $3, no big deal. Here’s a link to something similar to what I purchased. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2 F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333107108982 12v SPDT 30/40 amp 4 pin relay | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you want an easy up-front ignition-switched wire, tap into your gauge lighting. Use that to feed a relay. You can also - as long as you're using a relay, which is a low-draw hookup - connect your LEDs to it. I hook all my voltmeters to that wire, because it's local to the handlebar where I mount the voltmeter. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I'd really like a voltmeter. I haven't really had any battery problems, but a 23 year old bike... Every time I put my thumb on the starter I'm just hoping everything works right haha. They're just such simple and clean bikes, I try to avoid cluttering things up. I definitely have looked around at some voltmeters though. Any pictures of how your dash looks with yours mounted? I did hear about people using the gauge lighting wire, which sounds convenient. Only reason I picked the license plate wire was because it was just sitting back there going to waste, and I already had the matching plug from the sidestand switch I removed. William, yeah I'll take you up on that if you have one to spare, just send me a PM with the email address you use for paypal. I know how I do things.... I'll buy a 5 pack like you did just to get the best deal, then I'll just lose, or never use the other 4 and it'll be a waste haha, plus if you know yours works on these bikes, it's a safe bet. Gotta go pick up a new flasher for the new turn signals too. I at least know which one I need for that. For some reason the EP35 that I used on my XB9 doesn't work on the S1. You'd think the bikes would be similar enough, but it doesn't work. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Voltmeter is the best tool I have added to my Buell. Without a voltmeter one can be left out somewhere without a clue. FYI: With a good battery, a carburetored Buell can be ridden for 500 miles on battery alone. Further with an LED headlight! I just wrapped the following meter to the leads of one of the S3 dash lights. Really no need to solder. Placed windows tint in front of the display because it is bright. Also wrapped the display, which is inside the black plastic frame, in a bit of clear wrap to water proof it. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/850270.html https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adafruit -industries-llc/575/1528-1145-ND/5353605 https://www.newark.com/adafruit/575/accessory-type -panel-volt-meter/dp/68X4793?st=Panel%20Volt%20Met er | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I use these cheap LED flasher relays off of eBay, you have to swap the two pins in the harness, but a small flat screwdriver pops them right out and you can switch them around. These work with incandescent or LED bulbs. It comes with a bracket, I trim the other two holes off with tin snips and it fits in the stock location. I buy the LED bulbs off of there cheap too, I’ll throw some of them in the bag. I’ll about you a PM. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2 F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333187732928 | ||
| Upthemaiden |
March 16-May 8th! that's quite an estimated delivery range haha. I haven't reached the amazon level of 'need it next day' yet, but as good of a deal as that is there's a good chance that could hold up my riding once the weather starts to warm up here in March/April. I appreciate the link though, If I had planned ahead and started shopping back in November I'd give one of them a try. Just saw your PM and responded! 89rs1200: Just had the battery in my truck go this past summer, and I was able to use the voltmeter with my battery charger to make sure it was actually the battery and not the charging system, it was nice to have it there, first time I'd ever really used it. 500 miles is nice! but I assume that's if you don't need to stop and restart it anywhere. One of the most convenient bikes I've had was a dirtbike converted supermoto that didn't even have a battery. Nothing to worry about at all. I did eventually put a really small battery on it and replaced the tail light with an LED light, just to avoid my lights going dim when I was sitting at redlights, was always worried about getting rear ended... but it's a nice feeling to have a vehicle that is THAT simple. I'm not overly knowledgeable about electrical stuff, when you say the leads of the dash lights, you mean you pulled the bulb out, wrapped the wire around the base of the light and jammed it back in? Not sure where else you could wrap a wire without it falling off. I'd go for that wire, but considering I've already gotta put together a little wire harness extension for the relay and led running lights, maybe I'll just throw in an extra set of connectors so I can eventually grab one of the volt meters and it'll plug right in. Got a couple babies at home, so even a 20 minute job can take me forever to get to, save a few minutes anywhere I can get it! | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Actually the ride was 450 miles from Las Vegas to Reno, NV. I did stop for gas twice and restarted the motor. Another ride was from California to Nevada, about 250 miles. I was having stator burnout issues at the time. NOTE!! Found later I had a 0.7V voltage drop at the ignition connector. This may have contributed to the stator burnout. Buells as old as yours and mine, good idea to pull that connector apart, clean the contacts with contact enhancer/cleaner, cover the contacts with a little white lithium grease. Concerning the volt meter connections, Yes I pulled the bulb out, wrapped the wire around the base electrical connections of the light and jammed it back in. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on February 06, 2020) | ||
| Upthemaiden |
"I use these cheap LED flasher relays off of eBay, you have to swap the two pins in the harness" I'll have to try swapping the wires on mine before I replace it. Maybe theres a chance the ep35 flasher I have just needs switched around. I was looking through the wiring diagram to see where each wire went, and I noticed the S1 originally came with a 2 plug flasher, while mine currently had 3. You can easily tell which 2 are the originals and which was added in. I'm guessing the 3rd is just run to a ground, I havent gotten a change to really dig into it yet. Was this a common switch people were doing, even before signals LED signals were common? | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Quick question... if you have turn signals with sequential LEDs that flash even on solid power, is there actually any need to use a flasher relay? If I just jump the connection between the relay and remove it entirely, is there any reason it would harm the electrical system on the bike in any way? | ||
| Upthemaiden |
First of all, thanks to William for the relay, it was a big help. Got everything wired up this weekend. I saw the forecast over the next 2 weeks, so I knew I better get this thing ready to go because it'll be riding weather before I know it. Got the heated grips hooked up so they only come on with the ignition, which will be great. While I was at it I also wired in the leads for a voltmeter/digital clock I'm still waiting on in the mail. The main reason for starting anything with the wiring was the turn signals I got for Christmas. They were cheap, $17-18ish I think, but so far I really like them. The signals are bright, plus they have brake lights and front daytime running lights. The lights on this bike aren't that bright so I won't mind a little extra visibility to cars during the day. The turn signals override either the brake lights or DRLs just like the ones on cars. Extra bonus is because they're a sequential strip of LEDs, I didn't even need a new flasher, I just pulled mine and made a wire extension to go between the plugs.     |
