| Author | Message | ||
     Mikes_bikes |
I love riding my Cyclone, so responsive and light handling, but the shifter is painful. I have the later style, stock shifter and the return/centering spring seems to be calibrated for Sasquatch; it hurts my tender human foot, especially on the upshift. Is there a lighter shifter return spring? I am thinking that the later design XB/XT shift return spring might fit. It is made of flat rather than round wire and looks like it would be significantly lighter. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
I was adjusting my own shifter and discovered changes to the length of the connecting rod greatly affects the force needed to change gears. (I assume you do not have the older shifter with the long arms and connecting rod, which is over 12" long.) The later shifter arms are just so short that any adjustment of the rod length greatly increases the effort needed to shift. It's about the relative angles of the shift lever as it relates to that 1" long arm that connects to the shaft that enters the transmission. I find the rod needs to be adjusted as short as possible. Shifter position adjustment is made by rotating the arm around the shaft that enters the transmission. | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Yes, I have the later shifter, not the boomarang. I have tried a couple of lever positions; the standard position, as you say, keeps the rod adjustment as short as possible but the angle between the rod and the shift lever at the shaft side is greater than 90 degrees. I also tried setting the shaft side lever to 90 degrees but this does require adjusting the rod much longer. In both cases, the shift effort is too high but not much different from one another. | ||
| Steveford |
Is the splined piece pointed at the Torx screw like the one in this picture? If not, there's your problem.  | ||
| Akbuell |
What I did: First, adjust the clutch per the book. Max slack in the cable, adjust the center screw as advised, then the cable slack. After confirming the primary chain is properly adjusted. Made things better. I went MotoGP. Put the splined piece facing forward. If the toe lever is where you like, measure the distance from the ground, and install the splined piece so you get the same measurement. Pushing down to get from second to third DOES take getting used to, but it is really easy. Pulling up to get from third to second, ect does not seem to take as much effort. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Steveford: Thank you, yes, mine is pointed toward the bolt (actually, a tad above the bolt) like yours. I also tried it one spline notch downwards, as is indicated in the Buell service bulletin that details the later shift lever installation on the M2. There is not much difference in shift effort between the two positions, though. AKbuell: So, you simply flipped the lever on the shaft over to the other side? I can deal with the reverse shift pattern, that would just make it the same as my old English bikes. I'll give it a try, thanks. | ||
| Akbuell |
You are welcome. Don't forget to do the clutch and primary chain adjustment. And let us know how it goes. :-) Dave | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Thank you, Dave; Yes, the clutch and primary chain are adjusted properly. I should point out, for clarity, that the difficulty I have is the lever pressure on the top of my foot during upshifts, the shifting action itself is fine. One can feel the heavy spring preload by moving the shift lever up and down without actually shifting. A somewhat shorter shift lever on the Cyclone may make the problem more pronounced. Certainly, reversing the shift pattern will fix the upshift problem, not sure how downshifting will be. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I know this is the generic answer you don't care to hear, but are you riding in tennis shoes? It's definitely a heavy shifter that does best with some actual boots. My riding boots feel best, but I normally ride in Doc Martens just for comfort off the bike, and it's a little tougher. I've been on a never ending mission to get my bike shifting well since I got my bike. I started with the steel boomerang. Got it shifting ok but it has so much slop. I tried making an adapter plate to use an XB shifter like I've seen guys do on their XR1200s, but it didn't work like I'd hoped. I tried the GP shift version of the Banke shifter. It shifted ok, not as nice as I was expecting, but I just had a harder time than I thought getting adjusted to the reverse pattern. Finally I found the regular pattern Banke shifter. I thought life would be good, but it was actually much harder to shift than my old boomerang. Finally I tracked down one of the updated X1 shifters, and it so far appears to be the best option. I set the short end of the linkage based on the instructions, and my toe peg is about 1/2" higher than I'd care for it, but I think I'll have to try adjusting it like Steve mentioned to get it into the right position, as well as helping make the two ends parallel with each other. I know none of that answers your real question, but I think my general assumption would be that these bikes shift heavy enough, that if the spring tension bothers your foot, I think it's likely the pressure it needs to actually shift gears is still going to be heavier than you like, even with a lighter spring. I'm not gonna be the jerk that tells you that you just need some stiffer boots, but I think that might be your answer. One other easy option too... assuming you have the smaller toe shift peg, is to switch to one of the bigger HD toe pegs that came on the S1s. It's twice the size and spreads out the pressure on your foot, so it's much more comfortable. Only downside is they're coarse thread instead of fine thread like the newer shifters, so you'd need to drill the hole out and use a nut from behind like the old shifters did. | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Thank you for the advice, UTM. I prefer riding in soft shoes, as well, and can get away with it on my BMW but otherwise it's strictly boots. (Message edited by Mikes bikes on November 25, 2019) (Message edited by Mikes bikes on November 25, 2019) | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
I noticed that Twin Motorcycles in the Netherlands has a longer shift lever for the Cyclone, with the lever pivoting near the front-most 5/16" primary cover bolt (instead of the rear-most bolt). It looks about 1.5" longer than OEM. That should help. (Message edited by Mikes bikes on November 26, 2019) | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Not sure what the Twin Motorcycles version costs, but you could probably do the same thing with the X1 shifter. I assume if you mounted an X1 shifter on the front bolt would probably put it in a similar position to the M2 shifter on the rear bolt. I can measure mine if you need something to compare. | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Mounting the X1 shifter on the front bolt would put the rod at an extreme angle with the upper and lower levers. The Twin M/C shifter (actually LSL, I've discovered) changes the upper lever position to keep the angles closer to square. I've ordered one and will post back with results. It may take a while, though. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Perhaps the most expedient action would be to install a larger diameter toe peg on the shifter? | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
I'd probably come back to that after trying all of the more complicated and expensive things.  Thank you for the head slap ... I will put a hold on the new shifter and try that first. (Message edited by Mikes bikes on November 26, 2019) | ||
| Screamer |
Are you certain you have the updated linkage rod and “engine lever” (one that clamps on the shift shaft)? | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Screamer -Yes, I have the updated, 2001+ model shifter that pivots on the primary case bolt, not the original boomerang shifter that pivots on the footpeg ... and I am assuming that there is just one "updated" shifter. Is that correct? | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Here is a picture of my shifter:  | ||
| Steveford |
You might want to try getting the shift lever up some with that threaded rod. Years ago a guy brought over a Cyclone that was shifting really stiff and I just had to mess with the positioning for a bit and it was fine. These bikes don't shift especially hard but they are particular with the angle. A little bit makes a big difference. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
The angles are what I was really having a problem with. On my S1, with my foot pivoting on the footpeg it wants to push the shifter up and forward, but the shifter itself needs to move straight up and down. To get the banke and the XB shifter I tried to work well, I almost had to hook the toe of my boot under the peg and try to pull back on it as well. Awkward feeling. It's a shame the boomerang shifters have so much slop, even with updated bushings, because it definitely has a much better feel when the shift lever pivots at the same point as your foot. Always thought it was odd the M2 shifter has that short end pointing down. Seems like it would've made more sense for both of those shifters to have the short end pointing up slightly, would've made it easier to set it parallel to the part that clamps onto the shift shaft. | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Thank you, Steve and UTM. I have reached the limit of experimentation with the angles, going to the extremes of available adjustment of the rod and spline positions ... really not much difference from my foot's perspective. As I look at my own picture, I can see how ridiculously short the shift lever is and am now convinced that the longer LSL shifter is the way to go. I'll repost with results in about a month or so. | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Here is a picture of the LSL shifter for the Buell Cyclone  | ||
| Ratbuell |
XL based Buells will never shift like a UJM, they aren't built that way. I second the note above, about wearing actual riding footwear. I wear Sidi touring boots when I ride and have zero problems. If I'm servicing a bike and just take a quick spin around the block in sneakers, it hurts like hell. | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
I hear you about the "XL based" aspect of Buells vis-a-vis UJMs and about riding boots, as well. I also like optimizing my bikes; it's probably my main motivation for having them. For what it's worth, I'll measure the shift lever preload and travel of the OEM and LSL shifters when I repost. (Message edited by Mikes bikes on November 27, 2019) | ||
| Upthemaiden |
On top of any potential benefit to shifting, that's also the best looking shifter you can get for these bikes. They look great. | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
For the sake of comparisons between bikes (and for before and after for any changes), I thought it might help to quantify the shifter action. I measured the initial preload force at the shifter peg to move the shifter off the center position, and the pedal motion distance to engage a gear from neutral. I measured the three bikes I have access to here in my garage. The measurements are as follows: 1962 BSA: Initial preload = 3.5 lbs. Motion = 1" 1957 BMW: Initial preload = 2.7 lbs. Motion = 1.75" 2000 Buell M2 with 2001+ shifter: Initial preload = 8 lbs. (!!) Motion = 1.25" Needless to say, the Buell leaves room for improvement. (Message edited by Mikes bikes on November 27, 2019) | ||
| Steveford |
I suppose they make aftermarket shifter kits for a reason! That really does look great, I'm looking forward to your thoughts on it. | ||
| Screamer |
Mike, yes there was an upgrade to the early 2001 (non-“boomerang”) shifting assembly. It was released in May of 2001. It included a new engine lever and linkage rod, and fasteners. Judging by your photo, I think - - - you have the update kit - and comparing to a 2002 Manual, you appear to have the correct shift lever. The new lever length measures 1” between shift shaft center and center of the linkage rod bolt. The linkage is recommended to be adjusted at 4.75” (eyehole to eyehole) as a staring point - 4.88 at a maximum. Judging by the number of exposed threads on the adjustment, you may be near the maximum. The early 2001 M2 was extremely difficult to shift - the update reduced the lever effort, but there were still some complaints. | ||
| Mikes_bikes |
Screamer - That is very useful information, thank you. The upper lever is 1" from the shift shaft center to the eyebolt center. And indeed, I have the eyebolt extended to the practical maximum, which makes-up for having the lever rotated one spline notch CCW from the "correct" setting. It seemed to be closer to a true right angle that way ... but that made only a barely noticeable difference in the pedal effort. It is too bad that Buell didn't fit a lighter shift return spring ... Baker, LSL, MotoWerx, etc. seem to have done well with it. | ||
| Steveford |
In a way, they did, but that would be in the XB motors. Doesn't look like you can swap parts between the two engine designs. |
