| Author | Message | ||
     S1w222 |
I’ve had an X1 swingarm and wider rear axle fur a few years now but haven’t got around to doing the switch yet. I work as a mariner and have a shipyard period approaching near my bike so will have access to all the vessels tools and be able to work on my bike outside on the dock. My questions are: 1) is this an easy job? Does anybody have step by step instructions on how to do this? (Think I asked a couple years ago and somebody gave me some useful info but didn’t manage to get around to it and don’t know where info is anymore 😐  2) do I need anything other than swing arm and axle? I’m aware I’ll have to grind out mounting block a bit 3) is this a 1 man job? Any opinions as to if I’ll be ok to do this with bike supported at ground level/not on a lift? Thanks Buellers, help appreciated as always 2) | ||
| Steveford |
Different shock and front mount. You'll want a lift and this is not an especially easy job. | ||
| S1w222 |
different shock? Not just different shock bolt? | ||
| S1owner |
Its an easy swap. Only thing different on the pivot mount is the shock travel stop which can be filed down in minutes. Its an easy quick swap. Shock is the same need a longer bolt maybe. You will need the complete swingarm with axle, spacers and tensioners as the steel ones wont work. Lift it by the rear subframe with ratchet straps to the rafters and support your engine. | ||
| Steveford |
When I did my swap many years back I didn't find it to be very easy. Quite the project as I recall, not the thing you'd want to tackle on the sidewalk somewhere. That support the engine/lift the frame will give you an idea of what's entailed. My fellow mechanics at the time were laughing as it was "remove muffler" just like everything else with a Buell. Might as well stick in new isolators while you're in there. I might have it backwards but I think the steel swing arm had the longer shock? | ||
| Screamer |
The front shock mount defines the length of the shock required, not the swingarm. | ||
| S1owner |
Steveford- If not familiar yes it could be a big task but if you think it through its about a 2 hour job if you have everything you need. I swapped several. Shock is determined by the front mount not the swingarm. The swingarm shock placement is identical. Only difference in pivot mounts is the way the extension stop hits and like I said its a five minute file job. Yes some people have issues dealing with the isolators but a little properly placed lube On the isos and a quick leveraged push down and the frame will slide right over them. I actually find it way easier to swap isos on the s1 than on the x1! I support the motor etc, have the front wheel docked in a stand, use ratchet straps above to the rear subframe, loosen front iso, remove the shock and muffler, loosen all bolts, ratchet up the rear remove the bolts, lube up the isos, with a quick jolt push the drive assembly out of the frame. Reverse and repeat the process. No expanding the frame and all that crap. This is whats worked for me on several S1 and M2. | ||
| Steveford |
I replaced the shock because that's what the factory did when they upgraded the swing arm. I used the factory tool for the isolators and took my time, they lent me a spare lift at work to go through my S1 over the course of a Summer. It got all sorts of stuff and now resides out in Arizona. Spent many happy hours riding around on that one. | ||
| Steveford |
Out of curiosity, what WAS the reason for changing the shock length when they went to a cast swing arm? | ||
| S1owner |
I believe the recalls were also the shorter 14.5” shock as they came with the other front mount but not sure on that. I am sure it was part of the design change to address the recall issues. | ||
| Steveford |
That would make sense, thanks. | ||
| S1w222 |
Thanks alot for the info guys, I'm gonna give it a shot and if i get stuck hopefully the Chief Engineer will help out for a couple of cold ones, i think it'll be a long time until i have the time and available tools again. I'm pretty certain mine has had the shock replaced with the post recall model, it is the solid aluminum looking model not open coil, dont have a photo with me right now though. If this is the case then the shock/mount should be fine? | ||
| Steveford |
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?9451- Rear-shock-options A good write up with pics. I went with the latest and greatest(?) variant on my old 98 S1. I put a Works Performance one on my first X1W and that was a pretty nice shock. Beat the Showa by a mile. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
You'll be fine with the shock you have, but definitely need a longer bolt. Make sure you get the right grade, and not just a longer bolt out of the bin at Lowes. That's not a bolt you want snapping. I know when I bought mine, I ended up getting 4, because after you add on the cost of shipping, it's just not worth buying 1 bolt at a time. IF I can find them, you can have one for the cost of shipping, but that is an IF. 2 options for pulling the bike apart, first is like Ken described, when you just slide the frame up and over the isolators. Keep in mind if you do it this way you will have to remove the exhaust header before you can do this. The other is to make a tool to compress the left side isolator until the right one has room to come out. I went with the 2nd option because my exhaust studs don't look that pretty, and the last thing I wanted to do was turn a swingarm swap into drilling and replacing snapped exhaust studs. Look up the "Scot-free tool" on here, that's what you'll need to get the isolators out. Overall it's not a complicated job, but you are pulling apart half of your bike, and it does need lifted off the ground by the subframe, so it's a little work. Ken has had his bike pulled apart and rebuilt a few times now, so his idea of easy is definitely gonna be a little different than the average person, but it's not a bad job that can be done with the manual and basic tools. You can probably get away with jack stand under the passenger pegs if you don't have anything above you can hook some ratchet straps to. Also.... if you have the older style isolators, definitely pick up some of the newer ones. You're gonna have them out anyway, so it's an ideal time to replace them. Worth considering replacing your belt too, depending on what kind of condition it's in. | ||
| S1w222 |
Thanks for all the info. Upthemaiden I'd for sure be keen to buy one of those bolts from you, if you have one let me know the cost shipped to 33312 pls. Any suggestions on the best place to source replacement isolators? Are they the same for the S1/X1? | ||
| Upthemaiden |
All of the tubers use the same isolators, just make sure you find the newer style with the tabs on them. I'll take a look for the bolts when I get home from work. http://danielcstarr-pages.blogspot.com/2008/09/unauthorized-scott-free-technique-for.html New style you want is the one on the right.  | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I found the bolts. I'll track down a small box and send you a PM about the shipping. |
