| Author | Message | ||
     Boondocker |
First of all, enjoying the heck out of the bike lately. Runs great on the new-to-me race ECM (really like the power curve now). The Chinese fuel pump is working great and no overheating issues since I installed the manual fan switch. Since I've owned the bike though, the battery kinda drains out over a week of commuting... so I finally got a peek at it tonight and of course it's not what I expected and it doesn't seem like an easy one to track down so I thought I'd bounce it off of the collective here before I started tearing into it. With the key off, I disconnected the positive cable and discovered a temporary 60 milli-amp draw then a "click" and it dropped down to a steady 30 milli-amp draw and stayed there. I also noticed that if I disconnected the positive cable then touched it back to the battery, the gauges would do a sweep at the same time I heard the click then go back to zero. Scratching my head here... anyone have any ideas? Thanks, Claude | ||
| Steveford |
Click like a relay activating? That shouldn't be too hard to track down which one it is. Mine always takes a little bit on a battery tender once a week, I always chalked it up to the fan running on shut off. | ||
| Etennuly |
My '06 can set for months with a good battery, no tender, and fire right off. The gages should not sweep on hook up. Ignition switch may not be getting all of the way to the off position. I'd try a wiggle test there first. A key fob or collection of keys blowing around while riding can accelerate wear on the key switch. Put the kill switch in the off position with the key off. | ||
| Boondocker |
Don't know what the previous owner did but I just run the key by itself... good idea though to start there. Yea, it was a little alarming when I saw the gauges sweep just from touching the positive lead on the positive battery post... and the fact that there is a steady 30 milli-amp draw (with key and switch off). I'll check that out tonight. Someone told me to pull fuses until the draw went away as well. Thanks, Claude | ||
| Tootal |
Someone told me to pull fuses until the draw went away as well. That's true. Find the fuse you find the circuit. Then find your wiring diagram for that fuse and look for relays. Not always but usually the culprit. I just got done doing this on my car and I found the fuse but there's no relay's in the circuit. Then is hast to be wiring. I feel your pain! | ||
| Arry |
I believe that the guages do normally sweep, when you hook up the battery (I could be wrong), so, that would not be causing the drain. | ||
| Ourdee |
How old is the battery? | ||
| Ourdee |
Manual fan switch? How did you wire it? | ||
| Rays |
With the key in the 'OFF' position there is power to the instrument cluster to keep the clock and trip meter settings alive. It is this feed that many of us had break at the infamous steering head splice. When this feed is removed and applied the instruments 'sweep' so seeing that with the battery disconnect/connect is normal. The ECM also has a direct power feed - the fan switching after shutoff relies on this so the way you did the manual switch could be a factor? The 'O6 service manual gives a maximum of 2 milliamps for the key off parasitic draw so 60 mA is way too much. The voltage regulator is also connected directly to the battery via the 30A fuse - to eliminate by itself you can disconnect the '77 connector located under the front pulley cover. The instrument cluster direct power is via the Keyswitch fuse and the ECM power is via the ECM fuse. These three items (instrument cluster, ECM & voltage Regulator) all have internal electrics that could be the culprit and are straight-forward to eliminate. I'm assuming there are no electrical add-ons? - if there are then they need to be included in the elimination checks as well. Do you have an '06 circuit diagram to help with this? Ray (Message edited by Rays on October 15, 2018) | ||
| Boondocker |
Now it's really sucking down... let a buddy borrow the bike and it left him stranded. I doubt it's charging anymore or very much. Will be digging into the whole 77 connector thing and whatever else I can find. Cheers, Claude | ||
| Ratbuell |
Got a voltmeter on it yet, to see if it IS charging while running? | ||
| Boondocker |
Thot I'd throw in a pic of the bike while I'n fiddling around with it... heh.  | ||
| Steveford |
Don't forget to check the stupidest thing first: the seat deforms and will end up loosening the battery connectors. Mine just did that so it's on a Battery Tender overnight. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Battery terminal fix: Battery terminal. Star lockwasher. Wire terminal. Star lockwasher. Wire terminal. (repeat as needed based on how many accessories you have wired up) Star lockwasher. Battery bolt. Been working for me for tens of thousands of miles. No solvents, no electrical inhibitors, and the added bonus of adding the washer layers is your terminal screw will never bottom out, so it'll always be tight. | ||
| Boondocker |
Quick update. Turned out to be a bad Stator... fires right up now!  |
