| Author | Message | ||
     Cupfullofjoe |
Edit: Bike is a 2002 X1, intake and exhaust on the X1 race tune. So the bike starts up fine and rides fine for most of the time. But occasionally itll randomly miss while riding. When it misses the engine power cuts of course, the tachometer suddenly drops (lack of signal input?) and I also get a pop. I assume unburnt fuel going into the exhaust is igniting. Nothing else electrical on the bike shuts down, lights and everything else still function. Does it while accelerating, decelerating or steady. Used to only happen about once on my 40 minute commute but now its increased to much more frequently. It never does it while idling however and only after the bikes warmed up, generally I'm on the freeway between 3k and 4k. On my way home last night I was able to recreate the problem somewhat consistently by going WOT for a bit. I *think* it may be temperature related.. bike gets hotter under WOT and also being in Vegas heat it's been getting hot out here quick. But it doesn't happen when idling at a light. Doesn't throw any codes. I've reset my TPS, the bike has a new O2 sensor and head temp sensor. I'm thinking it's either the cam position sensor or the ignition coil. The cps makes sense cause the tach drops and that's what dictates the tach, but it also would dictate the injector fire as well, right? So I shouldn't have unburnt fuel? The coil makes sense cause of the pop but that wouldn't cause the tach to drop? Really need some help as this is my daily!! Thank you! (Message edited by cupfullofjoe on May 07, 2019) | ||
| Ocbueller |
Bypass the kickstand switch? Possible faulty speedo sensor? Monitor your voltage, I use a Kuryakyn Led Type cause it is easy to view while riding. Is your tank vent working properly? Just grasping at known issues. Good Luck! SteveH | ||
| Cupfullofjoe |
The speedo works fine during all this. The tank vent I'll have to test. The side stand sounds like a likely culprit. I'll bypass it today before my commute. Oddly I didnt have any misfires on my 60mi of ride yesterday. Grabbing a voltmeter is also a great idea. I've already had to replace the regulator so itd be good to see what is going on during rides. Just gotta find a real tiny one and a place to stick it where it wont look bad. Thanks for the suggestions! (Message edited by cupfullofjoe on May 08, 2019) | ||
| Akbuell |
Go to the supplier of choice and get a Kuryakyn Battery Gauge. $45 and change. I got mine from Al at American Sport Bike; sadly no longer an option. But J&P Cycles, Revzilla, yadda yadda. Small enough to fit on the front brake master cylinder, bright enough to see in the daytime. I like mine. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Akbuell |
BTW, the is 1 3/4 long, 3/4 wide, and 1/2 thick, in round numbers. Mounted mine w/double stick tape, supplied with the unit, IRRC. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Panel volt meter?? This is where my electronics background and frugalness comes in. I buy a cheap "LED 12V panel meter", for about $8.00, from a place such as https://www.newark.com/ or https://www.digikey.com/ Only two wires! * I pull out a panel bulb and slightly wrap ends of the panel wires around the bulb pins. * The meter is wedged between the right side of the S3 faring and faring brace tube. Just above the faring bags. * To hold in place, dab of that "putty" used to put photos on the walls without marring the wall or using nails. * To weatherproof a bit I pull the display out of the case and place a bit of clear food wrap around the electronics then pop it back in it's case. Has stayed dry so several years now. Display Characters Height = 0.560" (14.20mm) $7.95 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/adafruit-industries-llc/575/1528-1145-ND/5353605  (Message edited by 89rs1200 on May 08, 2019) | ||
| Buell3some |
My S3T acted very similar when the original ignition switch failed some years ago. While riding over bumps in the road it would cut the ignition for a split second just enough to light up the red engine light but never set a code. Occasionally it would pop also as it re-ignited the un-burt fuel in the exhaust system but i do not recall the tach needle being affected. Drag specialties makes a generic replacement switch for older Harley Dyna's that works for our tubers. I bought mine from American Sportbike when they were still in business. Just recently i had to replace my original kickstand switch as it started acting up with the same symptoms. Good luck with your electrical repair. | ||
| Cupfullofjoe |
I've had the ignition switch problems before as well. I installed a drag specialties dyna switch already a couple years ago. It doesn't seem like the same problem since only the tach cuts but my lights and everything else are running fine. | ||
| Buell3some |
Oh ok i didn't know you already replaced the ignition switch. I'll keep checking in on this thread and hope you get it sorted out. | ||
| Cupfullofjoe |
Yea I forgot to mention that in the original post. I've had a lot of things to replace with this bike actually. The fuel system has been replaced from the pump to the injectors a couple years ago. Plugs and wires are new. Full rebuild on the front brake system (still should get a new rotor though). A shop did a full top end gasket set a few months ago. I just put in an energy one clutch (the bearing for the clutch ramp failed and needed replaced but I just did the whole clutch). I'm actually on my 2nd new engine temp sensor, the first one only lasted 2 years. This second one I ran a new wire outside the loom and replaced the harness pin to be sure it wasn't a wiring issue. I replaced the voltage regulator. Bike was totally killing batteries every 3-4 months and that fixed that problem. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Have you checked plugs and wires? I have a 91 Dodge turbo car. It would break up under WOT/boost. Can't remember the last time I gave it a tuneup - maybe around 1999? Before I started tearing my hair out looking at sensors and connectors and all that crap...I threw 4 new spark plugs and a fresh set of wires on it. Problem solved. | ||
| Buell3some |
Wow sounds like you've been through Buell self-diag hell so far on your bike. I had an issue with my old X1 years ago but not really related to your symptoms. My rear cylinder kept fouling out and ended up that the injector harness rubbed through on the throttle cables and shorted out the rear injector. It drove me nuts for months! I would take the tank off and start looking for contact areas and rub-through marks on the wiring harness. Check for possible ground issues also if you haven't done so already. That main chassis ground/junction above the battery area has caused issues for some. Check the battery cable at the back of the starter under that rubber boot. It collects water when you wash your bike and rusts. That could possibly cause an issue as well. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Lose the sidestand switch, take a hard look at the ignition switch as they fail. And look at any relays, cannot remember how many or where on the X-1 but my S-2 would do this when one of the relays was going south, ignition switch as well. | ||
| Cupfullofjoe |
The switch and relays are good. And I by passed the side stand switch now. Bike was doing great, reduced the misfiring but still happening but then... Just earlier this week it started vibrating way more than it should. Vibration was rpm dependent, worse at higher rpm and worse under higher load or more throttle. Speed wasn't a factor. I'm thinking maybe timing is just completely off (crank pos sensor bad) or maybe one of the motor mounts is shot. Starting to lean on the bad cps so I'm just going to replace it anyway. | ||
| Oldog |
check front mounts | ||
| Cupfullofjoe |
Finally got a chance to look at the bike today and yea the front mount snapped. Looks like options are used ones... yikes. Or a new billet from hammer performance. Also yikes at the price. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Can't go wrong with billeted front mount. Replace your O2 sensor. And check your ETS, engine temp. sensor on the rear head. Cheap fixes. | ||
| Cupfullofjoe |
Took me a while to get to dealing with the misfire with the broken motor mount. Replaced with a billet unit from hammer, amazing looking piece, along with a new isolator on the front. Had to deal with extracting a snapped bolt from the head of the motor which was originally nerve wracking but turned out to be very easy to get out. Although the new mount is.. squeaky? The bike squeaks on big bumps and at like 1.5k under load. Loudly. Its been getting better though... Today I replaced the cam position sensor (ETS and O2 were already replaced recently). The cam position sensor seems to have fixed the misfire. Went approx 100 miles today without any problems. So far it appears the CPS has been the solution. | ||
| Oldog |
on the cyl head bracket, make sure that the mounting surfaces are clean and flat if not you will have broken bolts, American Sport Bike used to carry the bolts needed, prolly still get them at a sponsor shop. [WARNING THEY ARE NOT COMMON BOLTS] IIRC basic how to, red loctite on the bolt threads, lightly oil the hard washers, tq to about 25 ft lbs loosen 2 turns, re torque to 75ft lbs do not re-use or disturb once set. and yeah get the billet mount, an oe mount will break again... If the mounting points are damaged you get to pull the head and have the pads re-surfaced. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Cam Position Sensor was the culprit when my '99 S3 misfired at odd times. Ignition switch is now available from Harley, uses a flat key in the current model and can be ordered with matching keys so you only carry one ignition key for several bikes. | ||
| Cupfullofjoe |
The mounts been holding up well and the misfire hasn't returned so I believe the CPS has solved this issue. Continuing on with problems though a few teeth sheared off the final drive belt. I got a new one and managed to slip it on. Need to readjust the tension to be sure its scary loose. | ||
| Captainkirk |
Check your clutch lever kill switch. They are cheap and will cause the same issue as sidestand switch. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Clutch switch is not a kill switch, it just tells ecu it is ok to start esp if bike is in gear. Not sure on the Buells, but other bike ecu.s I have been into have what is called a neutral or start map and typically has less timing and a lower rev limit. I catch a lot of my customers who unknowingly bypass this to ease starting and then complain of decreased performance! | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Is that just on FI bikes, or would it do the same to a bike with carbs? I bypassed my clutch switch over winter because I was starting to have problems starting my bike before I parked it last fall. I haven't really noticed a change in performance though, not that my butt dyno is sensitive enough to always notice those things. | ||
| Captainkirk |
Interesting question. My clutch switch has been bypassed for several years now. Haven't noticed any change in performance. |
