| Author | Message | ||
     Boom_fist |
I’m in need of new friction plates as I can feel my clutch slipping under hard acceleration. After some research, is Barnett the only option out there? Nothing else is even coming up for a replacement clutch... Any feedback on the Barnett kit? Like/Dislike? Would like to purchase one ASAP, but would like to hear some feedback first. Thanks, -Tom | ||
| Willmrx |
I have used three Barnett kits. What worked for me was, Barnett plates, stock springs. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
+1 Willmrx sez..stock springs ( Barnett's springs are toooo stiff) a) the friction plates have small carbon fibre pads (vs the old Barnett stuff that looked like cork)...being carbon fiber ( hard and smoooth) they tend to polish the steel plates over time...I had to jitter bug sand my steel plates to get them to slip so I could shift into neutral...otherwise I could not get the bike to shift into neutral ( the plates were stuck ( stiction) to one another at low RPMs) b) soak them in oil before you install ( follow the instructions) c) check your slave cylinder ( the one down by the clutch) for leaks...might be time to upgrade to an Oberon kit too. d) change your oil ( new oil , new clutch pack) e) if you have a shop manual...read it over to understand the first steel plate install and the last fiber plate install...other wise very straight forward ( like a rice burner) f) there are some youtube movies on the slave cylinder...might help with the clutch pack R&R hth | ||
| Boom_fist |
Thanks guys! Is there a place where I can buy JUST the friction plates then? I'm due for an oil change anyway so it's a good time to knock it all out. My slave cylinder isn't leaking, but I've thought of that too. If the Oberon kit wasn't so darn expensive I would just replace that while I'm in there. I guess I'll inspect it and then go from there. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Friction plates only? = No...Barnett sells a "kit" only...if you're short on cash and have time ...try my jitter bug sanding hint on your steel plates (80 grit) and maybe (320-400 grit) on the fiber ones to knock off any "glaze"... change the oil too...hth | ||
| Boom_fist |
I mean, I want to fix the issue so if I need to spend the money I will, but I’m always up for an alternative. Maybe I’ll take it apart and inspect it all. If the plates have some meat left I’ll try your sanding method. If they’re beyond reviving, I’ll just order the kit. Any tips on doing this clutch job for a first time Bueller? | ||
| Snacktoast |
OE parts are still available from H-D dealers. X0030.1AM - clutch friction plate, qty: 9 X0015.1AMA - steel plates, qty: 9 X0014.1AMA - steel plate, 1.5mm, qty: 1 | ||
| Willmrx |
CG0007.1AMB clutch springs,qty 6  | ||
| Shoggin |
I resisted the Oberon slave for a long time because: 'It's expensive, and how different can it be!?!' WOW! DO IT! I put it in my super stiff 1190 and the clutch pull is HALF of what it used to be. Tested with a luggage scale. legitimately HALF and equal to the XB that has a brand new cable on it. Page 36... https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?53018 -Well-Bye/page36&highlight=oberon+slave | ||
| Willmrx |
It seems the price of the oberon has gone down. https://st-paul-harley-davidson-buell.myshopify.co m/products/oberon-clutch-slave-cylinder-for-1125-m odels | ||
| Shoggin |
Now you're just taunting the OP.  | ||
| Pwillikers |
My experience with two different sets of the Barnett clutch for the 1125 has not been good. I've installed two separate sets (friction and steels) and both never disengaged fully always dragging. Both sets misbehaved identically. I swapped in the OEM springs with no change. I eventually installed an HD OEM clutch (used the stock springs) and it has performed perfectly since. I suspect the Barnett stack height was excessive. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
+1 Pwillikers post...finding neutral with the barnetts is a PIA...gotta make sure I'm rolling and engage neutral BEFORE I come to a stop...gonna try the Oberon fix (I have the HD fix in now) hoping it will increase travel of the pull rod to disengage those plates... | ||
| Boom_fist |
Sorry I lost track of this thread guys! I appreciate all the great input! So, what I'm taking away from this is, some with the Barnett kit have had good success as long as you use the stock springs, correct? Pwillikers and Nuts4mc, did you use the Barnett springs when you had your issues? | ||
| Nuts4mc |
no...the Barnett springs were way tooo stiff for daily use... 1) purchased the Oberon kit...did not help my issues ...still could not get it in neutral. 2) modified my friction plates by removing every other carbon "pad" on both sides of the every friction plate (used one of those vibrating sander/cutters with a pie shaped "head") 3) quick test last night fixed the shift into neutral issue...need to go on a longer test today...or tomorrow...finally warming up out here in the desert 4)suggest you take pwillikers course and use the OEM plates hth | ||
| Boom_fist |
That helps out a lot! Much appreciated man. The best deal on OEM plates are New Castle HD, PA at $18.47 a piece which don’t seem too bad. $183 shipped to my door. Anyone find a better deal anywhere? | ||
| Shoggin |
Sounds like a good deal, and you get to support the people that support us  | ||
| Boom_fist |
Update, sorry it has been a crazy past couple of weeks! The OEM friction plates through the one HD online shop didn’t have them in stock. So, I ordered the Barnett kit and got it on Monday. I just tore apart the bike and removed what looks like an OEM clutch. The friction plates didn’t look worn down, but the steel plates are glazed over pretty bad. I think I could have gotten away with what Nuts4mc suggested by scuffing up the stock steels and probably would have been ok for a while. I have inspected and compared the 2 different kits and they have slight differences. Before installing the Barnett I was thinking of maybe scuffing up the steels?? Or is it necessary?? Any other advice for this install? | ||
| Shoggin |
Check the total stack height, that's the cause of the neutral issue, and be sure to soak the frictions in oil overnight. I wouldn't bother scuffing the steels. IMO. Theres lots of theory and old wives tales, but if it made any difference they'd come that way by now. | ||
| Boom_fist |
That’s exactly what the Barnett Rep said to do as well. He said the overall stack height should be the same. He also said the friction plates are slightly thinner to allow thicker steels for the glazing issues that owners were complaining about. Meh, don’t know how much of that is actually true, but ok. They’ve been soaking overnight and I’m going to hopefully finish up today and get a test ride in. I think I’m going to attempt a coolant flush as well. REALLY APPRECIATE ALL THE FEEDBACK FELLAS! Thank you!!! |
