Author |
Message |
Ggggary
| Posted on Tuesday, March 19, 2019 - 11:18 am: |
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Josh, the smiling seller, Me; all WTF did I just do? My loving wife agreed to a quick Florida "vacation", heh, heh, heh. It's safely back in Wisconsin now. Last ran ""7 or 8 years ago". Dissolving gas tank parked it. Might be a couple things need doing... |
89rs1200
| Posted on Tuesday, March 19, 2019 - 01:08 pm: |
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Concerning a new or cleaning the old tank, see the last half of post; http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/731338.html?1553015100 Airtech Streamlining; http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/buell/RSS12001 991-93.htm |
Court
| Posted on Tuesday, March 19, 2019 - 08:34 pm: |
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Always brings back great memories . . . I had one of the first . . . when they were new and rode it almost daily. Love Love Loved it Congratulations |
Ggggary
| Posted on Friday, March 29, 2019 - 11:02 am: |
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Slosh in a bit of tank sealer, should be good to go.
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Dave
| Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2019 - 11:14 am: |
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Nice score Gary. Josh & I used to ride with the St Louis Area Buellers (SLAB) a local BRAG back in the 90s & 00s. There's likely old photos of that RS1200 posted here on BadWeb. I always admired that RS1200 & would have pursued a deal if I didn't already have one. Those fuel tanks are a real headache.... DAve |
Dave
| Posted on Sunday, April 07, 2019 - 11:18 am: |
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The RS1200 I picked up had been in slumber for a number of years as well. I had to rebuild the carb and changed oils. It ran pretty good afterwards but similar tank issues need to be resolved. DAve |
Ggggary
| Posted on Sunday, May 26, 2019 - 04:12 pm: |
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It lives! A temp fuel tank, freed up the slide and butterfly, chucked in a battery and vroom vroom!
https://youtu.be/tg24UYvt7y0 Rode it 5 miles around the country block pretty close to range with a quart and a half fuel tank. Motor runs great all the way from idle to red line and up and down the gears. Couldn't be happier |
Falloutnl
| Posted on Monday, May 27, 2019 - 08:16 am: |
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Good stuff. Congrats man! |
Dave
| Posted on Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 07:09 pm: |
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Excellent! DAve |
K12pilot
| Posted on Sunday, June 02, 2019 - 08:48 am: |
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Ggggary
| Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2019 - 06:40 pm: |
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Back to the leaky tank issue. I posted a message to an eBayer selling ethanol resistant resin. EPOXY RESIN GASOLINE/ETHANOL RESISTANT COATING 4 FUEL TANK SEALING & LINING 96oz EPOXY RESIN GASOLINE/ETHANOL RESIS Price: $54.18 Buy it now Watchers: 50 Quantity Remaining: 278 72 sold Buy it now Get to know the seller polymerproducts My post; I have a fiberglass (Buell) motorcycle fuel tank from 1991, it was "sloshed" a long time ago when it began to leak, that coating failed. Tank has sat empty for about 10 years. The loose "peelings" were removed. Then tank was repeatedly shook with a light steel chain inside to break off as much loose coating as possible. It has a couple of seam leaks and some cracks in the poor design (mostly just resin, little or no fiber) sump. I prefer not to cut the tank bottom out to to get everything, so would like to do a "slosh" as compared to cutting it open to do a brush and then have to rebond the joint. Do you have a compound (thinned?) that can be "sloshed" as compared to brush coated or must I bite the bullet and cut it open? The cap hole is large enough to allow "decent access" but the complex bottom shape has areas that would be very difficult to reach with a brush. Some before and after pics of coating, tank, sump and problem areas. I can,will acetone and or MEK (available at local box store) rinse tank to improve bond. Thanks for any help! His VERY HELPFUL reply; Hello Gary, Thanks for the inquiry. Let me tell you; I wish the questions I receive is as concise as yours, which makes my replies more conducive to the application. The pictures are a great help too, thanks. Is that an after-market tank? From the pics, it looks like the resin used is a polyester resin and it would not have been the best choice for fabricating the fuel tank as you can see with your tank. Especially, with E85 gasoline that is mostly ethanol, a more aggressive fuel that will degrade resins, especially polyester. Be careful using the chain impact method as this may damage the tank further and create more fissures and microcracking. From the looks of it, the composite tank may be already weakened from the fuel exposure, and it will be less resistant to impact force. Consider warming the tank by placing it in a black trash bag and expose it to direct sunlight with the bag open. Stand the tank with the bung opening down so any fuel additive oils that do not evaporate will run towards the opening and degreasing it will be more accessible without splitting the tank. By slightly warming the tank, fuel the has absorbed in the composite tank material will outgas and yield a stronger adhesion for the repair coating. Again, looking at the pictures you sent, this may be the case. A technique that I recommend is to use a high-pressure washer and use a TSP degreasing solution as the detergent. TSP is an excellent fuel degreaser, especially when used with hot water; you can buy TSP at Lowes or HD. TSP is a dry powder, use hot water to make a detergent solution for power washer siphon detergent. It won't be as harsh as acetone or MEK rinse, and it will be as effective in degreasing. continued... Once the tank is cleaned and degreased, use the MAX GRE epoxy to create an in-tank barrier/liner coating application. The sloshing technique that you noted, I'm afraid is not an efficient method to create a uniform coating thickness throughout the tank. Sloshing will often leave thin our uncoated spots and will render the repair ineffective. Technically, a barrier coating should be a minimum thickness of 0.015-inch or 15 mils. The method used to apply the liner coating for tanks is by using a process called roto-coating. Here is a video demonstration of the process, it is not a tank coating process, but I think you will get the idea. https://youtu.be/C9g_GRTobUg I've made roto coaters using a bar-b-que rotisserie and that works well too. Another method is to pour the MAX GRE an allow it to cure flat, rotate 45 degrees and repeat until all sides are coated with the proper thickness. MAX GRE is an undiluted epoxy-based resin, and the mixed consistency is similar to cooking oil. Diluting the resin to make it thinner will lower the chemical resistance properties of the cured resin so, a thinner resin system is not conducive for gasoline/ethanol resistance. I have more information that may be of use to your project, but relating the info via this forum will be quite difficult and restricting. I would like to work with you on this project, as this makes for a good reference project for the MAX GRE. Unfortunately, we are restricted to provide c]o[ntact-info, however, if you do a web[search, I'm sure you will find it and we can discuss further if you are interested. Check the label on the MAX GRE picture. Hope this helps. Gerald L. Chief Chemist |
Falloutnl
| Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2019 - 03:48 am: |
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Damn, Gerald really went the extra mile. Enough ideas in there it seems. |
Steveford
| Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2019 - 06:30 pm: |
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Will this barrier also prevent outgassing from causing bubbles in the plastic tanks? |
Williamscottrobertson
| Posted on Friday, July 12, 2019 - 12:27 am: |
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I would also be interested to know if it would adhere to spun vinyl tanks |
Dave
| Posted on Sunday, July 21, 2019 - 10:08 am: |
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Excellent information - damned complex. DAve |
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