| Author | Message | ||
     Cyko_bob |
Has anyone done or seen a dual-purpose Blast? Most dual purpose bikes have seat heights around 35 inches (I am only 5'7"  , but I want one made for those of us who are vertically challenged. I have an XB9S, a Buell enthusiast, so I like the idea of having a unique, dual-purpose Buell. I have thought about another XB, but the Blast is cheaper and readily available. If I create such a bike, it will be used mostly for mining and logging roads or other dirt/gravel roads. I don't plan on doing any berm jumping or aerobatics on it, so having two feet of clearance is not a concern with me. Anyway, if someone has done this before, I am interested in what parts you adapted, used, or changed on it. Thanks for your input... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Dont know whose done it but the rear swingarm will need modification as it has very little room for a taller non stock size tire (3/4 inch) and no adjustment. The bike has 4" of travel, so it will still give a pretty good ride off road.The front wheel can be modified or swapped to 17" as I think there is nothing available in 16" for dual sport. Converting to a chain drive would be easier than keeping the belt (but I wouldnt even consider the chain for a street only bike!). There are quite a few who have converted to rear chain or 17" wheels. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on January 07, 2005) (Message edited by gearheaderiko on January 07, 2005) | ||
| Ezblast  |
 Ralph also told me he was talking with a guy in Florida who was doing one privately - there was a website as well but I lost the link - sigh - using the stock chasis might work if you beef up some areas with more steel - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Cyko_bob |
Thanks Gearhead...was thinking the same thing on the chain drive. Agree for street only belt is the way to go, but I am thinking off road it will be easy to pick up a small piece of gravel/rock in the belt and pulley. Who makes the chain conversion? Since I have not owned or ridden a Blast, did not know about clearance on swingarm. I will have to pursue that. I know it is a matter of finding the right part, but I also wanted a front fender with more rock protection. Any suggestions there? Again, not real familiar with the blast, but as a Buell enthusiast seems like a good way to go instead of a tall, dual purpose bike. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think any number of dirt bike front fenders should do the job. Chain drive Sportster/Buell parts should fit for the transmission shaft. There is no Blast conversion kit. The rear belt pulley however is like no other HD/Buell product, so a simple crossover is not possible.Speedway bikes use a sprocket that is big enough to adapt, but the chain size is 520 (HD is 530).It comes down to whats easiest or cheapest. Change the wheel, modify it to chain drive...As you see, the rear wheel & swingarm is where you'll spend most your time. I dont see the frame as major weak problem for what you what to use it for and it could be beefed up fairly simply. | ||
| Cyko_bob |
Gearhead/EZBlast...thanks for your inputs. I am encouraged by your thoughts and what you have shared. I think this is going to work...just need to pull the parts together. Stupid me...forgot about the Sportster. Need to explore that too. Actually, I had thought about a Sportster conversion too, but decided it would be dang heavy if (more like when) I dropped it. Cyko Bob | ||
| Ezblast |
At the websight I saw - the guy had the swingarm set up like the crossroads bike, the neck had been re-enforced, and his suspension set-up was not stock - some dual sport had donated - lol - Good Luck and keep us updated on your project - pics please - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jprovo  |
With some aftermarket wheels, a chain conversion and perhaps a scrambler type high exhaust pipe, the Blast could be made into a fun mining-logging road bike. Perhaps some wheels like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35601&item=451 8004960&rd=1 Keep in ming that the Blast has a small tank, so you might want to look into having a bigger one made up. James | ||
| Cityxslicker |
Or you could just jam down the road on the XB9S I was actually thinking of going to the blast exhaust to be a bit more ground clearance on my CityX. I am running down fire roads at 40-50 mph. It is too much fun to resist. See profile for pic, tho it is an XB | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Reviving an old thread to help with a new project. I picked up a Blast with an XB12R mutant conversion. (swing and front end). It came with all the parts to put it back to Blast. I mainly bought it for the XB wheels and brakes to go onto my S3 when that goes down for rebuild. I plan to take this bike back to Blast (mostly) but plan to use it as a cabin trail bike. I have a plan forming for taller off road wheels and tires, and plan to use a Uly swing for more wheel clearance. I could use some advice on shedding unneeded street weight. but would like to keep the turn signals and lights. I would also like a recommendation for exhaust. It currently has a sportster can mounted in a typical sportster front can location. I'm sure that can has been punched, so it runs loud, raspy, and like crap, (super-lean), when the AE circuit opens. I may mount something Cl scrambler style. I like size of the sportster can, and it certainly is a lot lighter than the stock, but I would like this thing to putt down the trails as quietly as possible without being choked off. I'm hoping Loose1 sees this and offers up his insights. Did I mention I want to do this on the cheap? | ||
| Missionbolts |
My Blast is basically just as it was made with only a couple changes. The rear turn signals are offroad capable that I designed & built. The tires are matching dualsport front's. So with that, it is essentially a dualsport bike that can ride down the highway and also on dirt forest service roads. I've been thinking about improving the ground clearance, it's just a very low priority project so no telling if I ever will - but what I was thinking of doing is to make a custom exhaust system that re-locates the muffler into the space between the front tire and the engine. This muffler will be shaped to not interfere with the front tire on full compression & steering lock-to-lock. Best way to establish that clearance zone is to remove the front springs and hang some wire rods out in that area, like 'curb feelers', in order to find the space where the muffler can be and still give some clearance to the tire. I will have the exhaust exit at the very bottom of the muffler and rearwards. The inlet pipe to the muffler will have floating connections to allow the engine to move around without affecting the location of the muffler, or tweaking the exhaust pipe connections. These connections will be spherical joints with spring clamps, just like classic dirtbike exhausts. Then I will place a skidplate under the engine which will run forwards to include upwardly curved ramps at the muffler so that stumps & rocks will slide underneath instead of stop the bike dead in it's track. The skidplate will have a truss running up to the front of the frame, where the forward engine stabilizer link is held. If I build this, then not only will my bike be breaking all the rules of conventional bikes, it will break the rules of Buell bikes, putting it just that much further 'out there' As for ditching excess weight, I wouldn't worry about that so much. The Blast doesn't weigh that much to begin with and most everything that could be made lighter has already been done so. However, you can ditch a few things and still be able to ride: Battery is a small/heavy component that could be questioned. There are drag racing batteries that weigh less. You can also try building a battery-pack out of 18650 cells, like what a Tesla uses. I would use NiMh type 18650's, as those can be charged from the stock system, have fewer issues and are more durable Windscreen and it's associated steel mounting tabs can be ditched Swingarm fender/belt guard can be ditched, but I would recommend adding a lightweight mud shield for the voltage regulator. This one mod will slightly improve tire tracking on pavement The entire tail-section of the bike could be replaced with something made from aluminum. Besides making the seat smaller and mounting the license plate without all the plastic, that would give a good opportunity to convert the rear turn lights into something that wont get snagged & broken off by small animals, saplings or forest gates | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Thanks for the reply. The battery was the one thing I hadn't considered. My current vision is a chain drive using the Kawasaki aluminum spoke rims found on the front of multiple KZ series bikes in the late 70s early 80s. 1.85 x 19 front and a dual disk front 2.15x 18 for the rear to catch the sprocket and brake rotor from the Blast. I would have to make my own adapter carriers, but that's just a math problem on the garage mill to get the holes, then use them as locating hold downs to finish the radial features. The Blast already has been set up for the XB swingarm, I just intend to go with a uly version for more travel and tire size clearance. It was a given the windscreen would go. I have a CB500 resto going in front of this project, so it might stay in its current configuration for a while. | ||
| Blueblast |
Not sure how the rubber engine mounts will hold up to the rigors of off-roading though . . . | ||
| Mnscrounger |
I'm a middle aged slightly oversquare rider. I doubt Ill be aggressive enough on any logging road or ATV trail to do any real stress | ||
| Missionbolts |
Has anyone done anything about relocating the oil filter? I was just looking at that while making another custom exhaust port nut, again I think relocating the muffler is going to open up some contact area on that filter! | ||
| Mnscrounger |
https://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/510ERL/10002/-1 | ||
| Missionbolts |
Doh! For some reason, thought the filter was a truly unique HD part | ||
| Missionbolts |
Except that particular adapter does not relocate a filter. The male threaded section of the silver finish mounting bolt is a clue to that. This adapter is for adding an oil cooler Need to lookup the filter mount size, then see what I can dig up | ||
| Missionbolts |
Well that wasn't as easy as I had expected! So, maybe this one: https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/23682/10002/-1 | ||
| Missionbolts |
Just measured a spare HD oil filter. Outside diameter of the o-ring is 2.45", so maybe a smaller adapter is called for, as that Moroso has a 2.625" seal | ||
| Mnscrounger |
The past few weeks I've picked up a 530 60T sprocket to convert the drive to chain. still need the (front 21T sprocket) I found one of those 19" Enkei Kawi LTD rims for the front. I still need to find an 18" Voyager front rim for the back. I found a set of bars that look like they will work and I also picked up a Supertrapp 3" cone for a muffler. Its louder than I wanted but can probably be tuned down quieter. Trying that can only marginally improved the running off choke, so I definitely need to clean and possibly rejet the carb. I might leave the body alone there is a tail light kit already on it. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Down the rabbit hole I go: Up until now Its just been a concept for that little Blast I bought, and a couple scavenged wheels. Last night I began actually working on the dual sport conversion. First item machine up wheel bearing adapters so I can use the original Buell forks, axle and bearings. on the KZ 750 wheels. I needed to shorten the Buell interior bearing spacer to fit in the narrower wheel, and then use the KZ spacer as a blank to make an external takeup. Magically the wheel, reversed from its KZ orientation, fits perfectly in the center of the fork .020- 030" off but I doubt that would make a difference. last photo is hard to see the difference between 16" OEM Blast wheel and the KZ 19", but this gets another 2" of ground clearance when done. the brake carrier is going to be a bear to make on my little mill but I will be using the Blast caliper and rotor.      | ||
| Missionbolts |
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| Cvc |
Looks promising what are you going to do with the XB swing arm? I have an 1125 one that might work with your chain conversion but for my project the belt is on the wrong side. A call or text would be great if you’re interested in trade or selling. Thanks CV 3606010597 | ||
| Mnscrounger |
The current standard XB swing is coming off. I have Uly version to go on in its place. I am going to make a threaded adapter to screw into the threaded side of the Uly swing, that accepts the smaller Blast axle threads. that way I can use the Blast bearings in the KZ wheel. I will need to make the whole rear axle, because the bearing spacing is different, and the journals on the Blast axle don't look like they're going to line up with the KZ wheel bearing journal locations, and because I need an XB sized head on the axle to lock down with the clamp bolt in the swing arm. but it will be cross drilled like the head of the Blast axle so I can unscrew it. That brings be to open up a brake question for discussion: The center hub of the 18" KZP front wheel is huge for the rear application but good considering the giant 60T 530 sprocket I'm putting on. However I have a couple options for rear brakes since a lot need needs to be fabbed anyway. Option 1: Using the Blast caliper ( same as the XB, and all options intend to use this caliper) on a carrier to reduce down to Blast rear brake rotor. This is closest to OEM braking performance but puts the caliper close to the larger hub and risks clearance issues. Option 2: Create custom bracket for Blast caliper to mate with KZ rotor. same 4.5mm thickness, but the KZ rotor is much bigger,(close to the Blast front), in diameter. This is easiest, but with the larger rotor does it become a skid monster when I touch the brakes? It also is less pretty because the KZP rotor is bigger, heavier, and the carrier lacks "style". Option 3: Use another larger diameter Blast front rotor at the rear, fabricating both bracket and carrier. This would probably look most correct, and get me distance from the wheel hub I'm looking for, but its as much work as option 1 with the same "over braking" questions as option 2. I may post some holdup comparison pics. when I have some spare time. I'm still doodling and noodling on the front brake carrier before I start cutting aluminum. But I open the floor to welcome comments from the experts. (Message edited by mnscrounger on July 16, 2020) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Go the simplest route. With different leverage, hyrdolcs and pads, you can reduce the braking power. If it’s off road, it’s going to lock up easy anyway. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
while Im pondering the options I at least got the axle adapter done. It now allows the blast axle in the XB swing arm the journals are WAY off from where they need to be. I found some wider bearings than the Blast wheel bearings but with the same OD ID, and a better load rating. Then I started thinking... The difference between the axle clearance cut diameter and the journal is only about .010". If I mark the new journal locations, I might be able to knurl that much up where I need it. I could install it with a little retaining compound on the knurl and it should work. | ||
| Missionbolts |
That knurling trick sounds interesting. I would try to knurl oversize so that cutting the tips off of the knurling will leave a flatter-faced tip on the point of each knurl you raise. That and help keep the knurling centered & concentric to the axle. I would also be a bit concerned about the knurling work compressing under load, so I would think about filling in the gaps in between each knurl point with JB Weld, before cutting the knurling down to size. I think JB Weld will resist compression loads decently, and the knurling will help reinforce the patch. I probably wouldn't 'cut' the patch to size, more like use a toolpost grinder with a rough & fine diamond wheel. I've been cheating on my toolpost grinding. I use an angle-grinder with a 3/8" bolt locktighted in where the side handle mounts. I turned the bolt down to fit a metric boring rod holder. This allows tilting the grinder to clear it from hitting anything on the lathe. I run that setup very slowly for my final passes, as the wheels I use aren't perfectly round & centered. So I'm just letting the one high spot on the wheel do all the final work | ||
| Mnscrounger |
with a coarse knurling tool, I should be able to raise the surface.010-.015 depending on the surface hardness and base material. I would let the retaining compound fill in the gaps, to prevent compression. Also the wheels look nice with a coat of truck bed liner compound on them to make them pretty, and easy to clean. I also ground off the "Kawasaki" embossed in the castings. My version of "cancel culture" | ||
| Missionbolts |
Ok. So what is this 'retaining compound? I might want to use that Got a broken exhaust stud complete with a broken bolt extractor. So today I'm turning the exhaust flange 90°, drilling & tapping new holes |
