| Author | Message | ||
     Huntsville |
I'm getting ready to use my newly-purchased CMI to reset my throttle and hopefully find out why my 06 Uly blows headlight bulbs instantly. Are there any videos to help me learn to use this? thanks guys | ||
| Ourdee |
Instant head light bulb blowing is indicative of a dad voltage regulator if, the wiring is OEM. Hook up a voltage meter and watch it when you start the bike and for the first couple of minutes. | ||
| Huntsville |
Where do I tap into the voltage regulator? | ||
| Arry |
What is this "CMI"? | ||
| Huntsville |
It the electronic diagnosis analyzer for Buells, to trouble shoot codes | ||
| Arry |
Is this an aftermarket tool, or a Buell item? I agree with Ourdee, if headlight bulbs are blowing "instantly" you've got voltage output that is way high or voltage spikes, or bad (cheap) replacement bulbs. High volts would indicate voltage regulator and/or stator problems. If this "CMI" does TPS resets, I'd like to hear more about it. Where to get, price, ... | ||
| Froggy |
http://idspd.com/xcart/cmi-lite.html Made by the same company that made the ECM | ||
| Huntsville |
I got it from the HD dealer in Wisconsin, cost about $120 and yes, it resets the TPS, which is why I got it initially. I've ridden the bike several hundred miles with the lights out and it didn't fry the battery or anything to act like it was overcharging. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Lights are, basically, a visible fuse. They can only handle so much voltage, and a certain amount/speed of spiking, before they pop. They're basically the weakest link in the electrical system; the most "fragile", if you will. System voltage is system voltage, anywhere in the wiring - battery, outlets, light sockets, instrument cluster, whatever. If you want to be super-precise about what your headlight is seeing, remove your headlight bulb and insert your multimeter probes into the headlight socket pins. You should NEVER see anything 15v or more. 14.7 is typical cruise-RPM charging; 12ish at idle. Once you know what your voltages are, get a voltmeter installed on the bike. I run a kuryakyn LED voltmeter, attached to my front master cylinder so I can see it at all times. Red lights for low voltage; amber lights for mild drops; green for "Good", and another set of reds for overvolt. Mine is tapped into the lighting wires for the gauges since they're on anytime the key is on - do NOT use the power outlet, it is switched by the ECM based on voltage. If the voltage drops below a certain threshold, the ECM will "shed" the aux outlet to preserve power for vital systems. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Anything beyond those tests (system DC), get a shop manual - it lists how to test the stator output (AC voltage). If your stator puts out voltage in spec, and doesn't have opens or shorts (per the manual test procedures), then your VR is the problem. If your stator fails the tests, replace it first then re-test system DC to see if the stator took the VR with it when it failed. | ||
| Arry |
Thanks for the info on the CMI Lite. I'd like to have one, but probably wait until I need it before I spend $$. Huntsville, do you have a "multi-meter", to check your voltage? With your problem (blowing headlamps), a multi-meter is probably more helpful than the CMI Lite. A quick check for the stator, is the "sniff test". remove the primary chain inspection cover, on the left side of the motor case, and take a whiff. If it smells like burnt insulation you probably have a bad stator. and you can do resistance tests with a "multi-meter". | ||
| Tootal |
+1 on checking the stator before replacing the VR. There are three test and it must pass all three or it's toast. I replaced the VR and fried the new one because the stator was bad also. | ||
| Smorris |
so beyond the TPS reset what else does the tool do? back to the original question , are there any videos of it being used? |
