| Author | Message | ||
     Huntsville |
Started yesterday, coming to a stop and the throttle is a little high, 2000 rpm. If I let the clutch out a little it drops to idle, otherwise it slowly drops to idle. I'm guessing it's something sticking in the throttle body? Ideas much appreciated. Thanks | ||
| Huntsville |
forgot to mention, it's a Uly '06 model with 75k miles | ||
| Hughlysses |
Well, first make sure your throttle cables are lubed and properly adjusted; there should be a small amount of play at the grip. Also make sure they’re not frayed on either end and about to break. If it’s neither of those, it could be a broken throttle shaft. Pull the outer and inner air box covers off and look in the throttle body to check. Badwebber Tootal makes improved replacements. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My X1 did that when the throttle cables got freyed near the throttle body bell-crank thing. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Or it could be time for a tps reset. Hanging idle is a common symptom. | ||
| Huntsville |
what is a tps reset? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Throttle Position Sensor. Tells the computer "this throttle position = closed", so it has a baseline to reference for all other throttle openings and fuel delivery. Every so often, you're supposed to reset it so the computer has a fresh base position. Unless you have ECMspy, you'll need a dealership to do it for you. EBR was offering a specialty tool for a while, but not sure if they're still out there or not. | ||
| Huntsville |
OK thanks everybody, I'll look into all those things | ||
| Ourdee |
If it’s neither of those, it could be a broken throttle shaft. Pull the outer and inner air box covers off and look in the throttle body to check. If shaft is good, clean throttle plate and mating surfaces in the body before closing it back up. Button up and see if that helped. | ||
| Etennuly |
You also have an idle adjuster screw near the front spark plug. The plug wire is probably resting on it wearing a grove in the insulation of the plug wire if it has not been moved. After checking stuff reset your idle to 1050 rpm. If it still hangs at 2000 like it is doing now, carefully try to bring the idle down 25 rpms. Ride it fully warmed up to test it. If it still does it try to bring it down another 25 rpms. This should fix it. Many of us had this happen as the new bikes got a little use on them. | ||
| Huntsville |
Opened it up, the butterfly is very dirty, might be the problem. Haven't gotten to the cables yet, getting that cover off is a chore! | ||
| Huntsville |
Cables are perfect | ||
| Etennuly |
Be sure to clean the edges of the throttle plate. This may be your only problem. Carbon build up will stop the plate from closing to 0 in the bore. This throws everything off. | ||
| Tleighbell |
Only going by what I have read, but i believe that can also be a symptom of intake leak. There is a test in the manual. Or here: http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/websho..._Intake_Fla nge | ||
| Tootal |
As Etennuly said, check your idle rpm. If it's hanging at 2000 rpm then that's exactly what will happen if your idle is set too high. Lower it a little and see if it goes away. | ||
| Huntsville |
Well after cleaning it up, cleaning and lubing the throttle spring I thought it was cured. Worked perfectly when I first started it up. But after a 100 mile ride it was doing two things: Sometimes idle was high at 2000 rpm. Most times it was cycling up and down between 1100 and almost 1500 rpm. I went to the link to check for an inlet leak but it didn't come up | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It sounds a lot like what my X1 would do when the idle was set too high. I found my sweet spot was just under 1000RPM. Like 950 or so. When it gets hot, the idle will creep up a bit. Which in traffic, will make it heat up more! | ||
| Tleighbell |
Don't know why the link doesn't work but just google twinmotorcycles inlet leak video. there were a few videos came up. Basically you just let the bike idle and spray some brake cleaner or fogging oil over the inlet seals. I accessed from the right (drive belt) side by you can also access from the other side. I either case you have to remove the air scoops to access the manifolds and seals. In the Buell manual they say to use propane but you need to extend the outlet so you can get the gas to flow over the seals. If there is any change to the idle speed when you apply whatever substance you use, that means there is a leak. On the twinmotorcycles video the change was quite subtle. i would make sure the bike is warmed up so you get a steady idle to do the test. Good luck. Hope it comes back negative.BTW Twinmotorcycles advertise some upgraded seals if that turns out to be your problem/ | ||
| Tootal |
So what is your hot idle rpm? Did you find your idle adjusting cable? So far you haven't mentioned it and I want to make sure you have the basics down first. | ||
| Huntsville |
I've been busy rebuilding my old BMW's transmission for the last few days, so will get back to the Buell soon. I'll try spraying to look for a leak. And No, I haven't tried the idle adjusting cable. It idles fine when cold, just acts up when hot. I'll get after all these things in the next day or so and keep you all posted. Many thanks for the help!! | ||
| Ratbuell |
You're supposed to set the TPS when hot; sounds like it was done wrong. Classic symptoms. Hot idle should be 1050. If it hangs, gradually drop it with the idle screw until you're at the highest idle speed that doesn't hang up. Remember - RPM equals oil pressure, and in an air-cooled motor oil pressure equals cooling as well as lubrication. | ||
| Buelet |
Haven't seen this mentioned yet, but the throttle shaft nut on mine worked loose a couple years ago while riding in Arkansas. That caused the throttle plate not to be centered in the throttle body after having it opened up and then it would stick and not return to idle unless I jacked with it. All I had to do was put a small wrench on the end and snug the nut down again and it's been good ever since. Hope you get it sorted out soon! |
