| Author | Message | ||
     Tommymac92 |
So I have an 09 1125 and have gone through 2 charging systems under warrantee and did the rotor swap a few years ago. I had been using the bike as a track bike the last few years. I didn't ride it last year due to health issues and this year I have done 2 track days. Yesterday I took it on the street to take an advanced cornering class. I rode there fine but as the class went on I noticed it was harder to start, then for one drill I had nothing, the dash didn't even go on. I skipped one drill and we bump started it for the last one. After that it sat for a bit and it wouldn't start again, we managed to jump start it this time and it fired right up but it died about a mile down the road. I put iton the charger last night and looked to be full charge. I took the charger off and checked voltage with the bike off. It was 13.5 but that was seconds after taking the charger off. I turned the key, everything lit up, but the battery light was on and it went to 11.5 and I heard a clicking at the battery when I put the meter on. Its currently 6am so I cant fire up the bike just yet lol My question is what to attack first time is a bit of an issue as I have a track day coming up in 7 days. Also the current regulator and stator had a few hundred miles on it before I did the rotor swap. | ||
| Joe7bros |
Check your charge rate with a multimeter, though it sounds like the battery's had it | ||
| Tommymac92 |
SO I let it sit for 2 hrs off the charger. the voltage wa still around 13, I turned the key on and the brake light comes on but the dash doesn't light up unless I have the multimeter probes on the terminals. I am hoping its just the battery but I am already researching new regulators and a possible stator swap. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
unfortunately just checking the battery voltage ( under no load)doesn't give you the whole picture on your battery's health...might try checking it while you try and crank it over...it's the AMPS you need to make the starter motor spin and power the ignition system...not just the volts...that's why the CCA rating is important when you go to purchase a replacement...sounds like you have done a good job on repairing the weak links in the charging system...letting a bike sit for a year did not help the battery. haven't tried this brand of batteries but they claim high CCAs https://www.batterymart.com/c-big-crank-batteries. html hth | ||
| Joe7bros |
Agreed, it's best the verify battery under load; you can try taking it to a parts store - Pep Boys, Autozone, etc - and ask them to check it | ||
| Tommymac92 |
I overlooked the obvious, I pulled the tail section off and started to remove the battery to find both cables were slightly loose, makes sense now that it would click on as i put the probes on as it made a better connection. |
