| Author | Message | ||
     Dasxb9s |
Dave The words are not pronounced the same... but first this... I will try to keep this short... but anyone who has read much of my postings knows that I don't accomplish that often. BMW just had it's 80th anniversary last year. The company was originally an aircraft manufacturer. The blue and white center of the BMW emblem represents a spinning propeller. After the war they were unable to make machines of war... and got into motorcycles... and eventually cars. OK... where am I going??? A bit back there was a term that was coined for the young upward mobile persons in the business community that was driven to succeeded and move quickly up the corporate ladder... they were referred to as Yuppies. Very materialistic... the upward movement was the means to an end to gain status possessions... one of which was the BMW car. Most had no clue that BMW makes motorcycles. As they were often surprised to see a BMW bike and would proclaim "I didn't know BMW made motorcycles... they just started... right?" So... the joke by BMW bike riders was, many of which restore and ride old bikes, as they would see a BMW car and comment... "I didn't know BMW made cars!" So... Beemer is properly used to refer to the motorcycle... and amongst the hard core BMW bike group it is THE way to refer to the bike and never NEVER the car. Pronounced as it is spelled bee mer The car is referred to as Bimmer, actually originating from the Yuppie bunch... properly pronounced in one's best Thurston Howell III (the third) voice (from Gilligan's Island) as no clear sounds, but aristocratically slurred into bim er Go to a BMW bike rally and call one of their bikes a Bimmer and get ready for the correction... as BMW riders are a unique group... many Iron Butt kinda riders... logging 10s of thousand of miles annually (they earn mileage awards from the BMW Club of America).. Anything but Yuppies! The local BMW shop services a bike with excess of a 1/4 million miles on the odometer! I bought my 1995 R1100RA with 20,000 miles and it was seen as an extremely low mileage bike... and was told, "It is just broke in" Explained that if a bike is babied, it can take up to 20,000 miles until it seats in and quits using oil as bikes will do until broke in... Ride it hard... and it breaks in sooner... ride it easy... and it takes a bunch of mileage... 60 to 80 thousand miles is not really considered a high mileage used BMW bike. The used police bikes that are resold through BMW dealers typically are turned in at 60,000 miles and sell for about $10,000.00, and are two years old... and sold originally for about $14,000.00. They have no trouble selling them! Sorry for the long answer. But... there is a difference... at least to the bike guys... many car owners don't realize the origin of Bimmer and will call their cars Beemers... but to quote a guy I met at a rally "THEY ARE SAYING IT WRONG, IT'S NOT A BEEMER IF IT IS A CAR!!!" I slowly backed away!!!  | ||
| Evaddave |
Cool! Thanks for the explanation. As a youngster, I had heard "beemer" in referring to cars, but had always read "bimmer" in the auto mags, so I assumed bimmer was pronounced just like beemer. How did beemer come about? Is it just a pseudo-pronunciation of BMW? Kinda like Hum-vee is to HMMWV? (both have silent W?) Yuppies got their nickname from the first letters of Young Urban Professional. I guess Young & Upwardly Mobile would have led to a generation of "yummies"  Let's try to imagine that. Once again with your best Thurston Howell voice: "Muffie, dahling, look at the yummies in the bimmer."  Okay, sorry for taking this thread on a detour. Now back to your regularly scheduled topic... | ||
| Dasxb9s |
Dave... You are probably correct, I was remembering the term origin as Young Upward-mobile Professional. When you get old the second thing to go is memory... I can't remember what the first thing is!! Not that it matters, they were an amusingly annoying group, that was too visible for too long. I worked with one and he had a different car every 3 to 6 months, and a new house every year, THE latest electronics, and how he was able to do it with out going broke I will never know! I am not sure how Beemer came to be, or even which country it came from, USA or Germany. That never comes up at the BMW rallys that I have heard. I am BRAG member, the local club is known as the KC Mob, and a Member of the Kansas City BMW CLub. In the KC Mob, I am the oldest member at 50, and at the BMW club I am closer to being the youngest male member. I was a junior in High School the year you were born. If I could just remember the stuff I forgot since 1971, and remember how I know the stuff I do remember, I would be happy. Beyond that, be able to later remember what I learn each day, I'd be a living miracle! My age is only exceeded my my immaturity! | ||
| Oz666 |
After trying to get my rear shock replaced under the goodwill program since 2001 (no luck) "that oil must be coming from somewhere else, Harleys leak 'ya know" AND under the (useless) extended warranty "it's a wear item" (a $600+ shock SHOULD NOT wear out in 27K miles, let alone start leaking in 7K miles). Looks like my choices are HD (1 months pay), or Traxxion Dynamics, Penske (2 months pay) IF I can get my local to help me out, I need the part # of the replacement shock not known for blowing seals. Don Carlos (I think) posted it some time ago but I could not find a reference to it. Thanx  Oz | ||
| Steveford |
Great and powerful one (with the not so great shock), Give me a call at work (570) 992 7500 if you still need the part number. A better choice would be Works Performance and they have three different shocks for your bike (with three different prices, of course). You want to order either directly from Works or have a dealership do so as they'll make it to your weight, riding style, etc. If you go through Drag Specialties or whoever, you get a generic shock. However, you do get the shock sent out right away instead of having to wait for it to be built. | ||
| Mbsween |
Steve, Do you know what the generic shock is setup for (weight wise anyways)? | ||
| Oz666 |
MBS: Rear shocks through 1998 had a spring rate optimized for a 155 lb. rider, '99 and up assume a 175 lb. rider. That's what I have been told and sitting on or riding the bike(s) with my considerably greater mass would confirm it. Steve: If I get an aftermarket, you think the Works shock is better than the Penske 8987 or 8981? (Still need that part #) (there is ONE and ONLY ONE part # that gets one a Buell OEM replacement Showa that DOES NOT BLOW SEALS, I need that EXACT part #. I can look up anything - the two dealers I frequent just hand the parts book for the model & year I request to me THEN enter it into the computer for the almost assuredly superseded part # or notice of obsolescence) Oz edited by oz666 on May 14, 2004 edited by oz666 on May 14, 2004 | ||
| Steveford |
Dunno about the no leak part number, Mighty One. I do know that the Works is cheaper than the Penske. As for what Works ships to the vendors, you'd need to call up Works Performance and see what they're using for a baseline shock. It might be just perfect for you. | ||
| Bvan |
I changed my rear isolators, using the instructions on the ATC site. I can only tell you it was hell, doing it without the frame spreading tool : it took me 2 days. So my advice to anyone who wants do this: get the tool ( or get a hart attack trying to do it without the tool ) | ||
| Grndskpr |
Does anybody know if the swingarm seals are the same for a 98 steel swingarm and the 2000 aluminium one thanks Roger | ||
| Al_lighton |
Oz666, If you go Works (beautiful shocks, aesthically), you'll likely either want to get the lowest model built to your specs, or buy the better adjustable model(s), unless of course like Steve said, you match Works generic parameters exactly, whatever they are. The lowest price one has only preload adjustment, but no comp/reb damping adjustment. If you order one, the blue springs come in faster than the black springs, you'll likely get your shock quicker. But the black springs look very nice... Bvan, The swingarm/isolator job is a pain to be sure, but that's no matter what way you do it. I'm not sure I'd agree that the frame spreading tool would make it any easier, though. If you're using the ATC method, the bolts compress the isolators and the swingarm pushes right in, you remove the compressing bolts, and the swingarm beats right into place with a rubber hammer or 2x4. It's definitely a pain in the butt getting the swingarm bolts aligned perfectly, but I don't think the frame spreading tool would ease that pain much. It really helps if you have a way to hang the bike from the rafters or something. I bet you could do it in less than a day now that you've done it once Roger, I've got the info at work if someone hasn't answered by tomorrow. Al | ||
| Grndskpr |
New problem has arisen and i would like a little input: Upon installation of my isolators i noticed that the rear mount on the engine(one of the 4 hole the swingarm bolts to) has a broken tab, in other words, the swingarm would be mounted with 3 bolts instead of 4, my question is, should i rebuild the engine with a new right side case mount, or could i weld the tab and bolt it up or is there another alternative, welding seems like it would work, and i have heard that welds can be stronger than the original piece, but i have my concerns let me know what you think later ROger | ||
| Dueller |
Have any of you used the heavier "race" springs available for the S1W? I'm a heavier rider (225#s) and just curious if anyone recommends these and if so where do you begin on comp/rebound dampening settings. Thanks jim | ||
| Henrik |
Jim; contact Traxxion Dynamics or Marcus McBain for suspension options, advice, parts etc. I'm about 195# and use 1.05 kg/mm springs in my S2. Unless you go ahead and have someone revalve your forks, you'll at least need heavier weight fork oil. I can't remember what you'd use?? Andy?? you out there? Henrik | ||
| Rocketman |
Duel the Buell Race Kit Springs work well and they are cheap too. I use 'em in my S1W and I'm about your weight (lean mean racing machine LOL). Follow your Buell bible for set-up. You'll instantly notice less dive under braking and a firmer front end altogether. My advice would be to try this option before you contemplate spending big bucks elsewhere. Rocket | ||
| Henrik |
Quality springs need not cost any more than the Buell Race springs. The advantage to other sources is, that you can get the exact spring rate to match your weight and riding style. But in essence I agree. Try the springs and different oil first. Henrik | ||
| Dueller |
Henrik/Rocket...thanks for the input. I can't believe I caught them somewhere on sale for less than $50. A friend uses Traxxion for all his race set up and they are good...right now I'll try the race springs and oil. BTW, Rocket...we're built for comfort AND speed  | ||
| Soundman |
Hey gang, I recently scored a "good" recall shock for my 99 X-1, but no front mount. Does any one have the separate part number for the newer "short shock" front mount? I went to the archives but I still have not found it yet. Thanks, Soundman.............. | ||
| Hootowl |
I needed that same part a few months ago. Easiest thing to to is call a dealer and have them look up the part number for the front mount for a 2002 X1, as well as the little bracket that sticks off the shock mount that the fairing attaches to. (I forgot about that little detail) The mount will run you about$50 Jeff edited by hootowl on May 28, 2004 | ||
| Soundman |
Thanks Hoot, But I did just that. I am in Florida on business and stopped by Fletcher's in Clearwater. They couldnt even look it up. I told them to look up a 2002 X-1 part. And the idiot grabs a 2003 firebolt manual. No x-1 manual at all. I 'll just wait to get back home and see if my local dealer has a brain. Thanks for the help though. Soundman........ | ||
| Loki |
In progress inspection..... Using the ATC guide for isolator changing. I have managed to so far drop out the mount block and swingarm. Noted some additions for the S1. Remove the darn battery and regulator. This will allow you to put a box end wrench on the upper left nut. Place wrench between battery tray and regulator mount. back to the isolators themselves.... Talk about trashed...... The left one had separated along the top half by the frame. Also noted upon removal that it was torn at the 9 o'clock position, concealed by the primary cover. The right one, lets say makes the other look good. Note to self; DO NOT reinstall the frame plugs! Now to wait for the new kit for the install. I bet the girl will feel much better after I get finished. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Loki, I just picked up my kit today. It came with L&R isolators, new bolts, misc nuts, a tie wrap, a crimp type hose clamp and a new plastic belt guard? Not sure why they included the belt/pulley guard. When I do my M2, I plan on documenting the process and posting the whole thing here. At the same time, I'm going to see if the kit can be used on an S2. I heard that the new isolators will fit if shaved with a grinder. One thing for sure, the new isolators are much bigger than the old ones. I'll take pictures of the kit contents and post them here later tonight or tomorrow. Nothing else to do with all this DAMN rain. Brad | ||
| Kalamamarkm2 |
I'm a newbie, and this is probably a stupid question...but how do I know when to change the isolators on my '02 M2? I noticed the center of the bolts are not in the center of the hole...how much is too much? Thanks, Mark | ||
| Loki |
Mark,(there is only one stupid question, the one you fail to ask) It is not the position of the bolt head. One must look at them. Look between the frame and the mount block. You will be looking for cracks, tears, or a delaminating of the rubber around its circumfrence. Look for the same on the inside(frame hole)around the internal circumfrence. There are tell tale signs of damaged ones also. Abnormal buzzing in the pegs or a rear that feels like it is washing out. If in doubt, let a tech take a peak. There are things that could fool ya. They should last quite some miles. The usual disclaimers apply here: overloading, wheelies, stoppies, severs track usage....will affect the servicable lifespan. I will post pics of my thrashed ones in the a.m.} | ||
| Kalamamarkm2 |
Thanks! | ||
| Loki |
my poor trashed isolators   | ||
| Shotgun |
Loki, I just bought the kit and both isolators say R. Did they do the kit wrong? | ||
| Loki |
Shotgun, From all the reading I have done... They should be stamped L and R on the washer side. I can't verify this as I am in wait mode for my kit to show up this week. BTW: the above isolators were installed with the swing arm recall. So I managed to put 11k on them, or should I say I ought to have noticed this earlier. Brad, Was your kit identified as L and R? | ||
| Hootowl |
Mark, Your 2002 has the latest isolator design. I wouldn't worry about ever having to replace them. I have not heard of anyone breaking them. Jeff | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Loki, Yes, mine are marked L & R. I'll post pictures tonight. Promise! I was quite busy this weekend building my motorcycle lift. I have to remember not to mig weld so much with short sleeves. I have a nice "sunburn" on my left arm..... Brad |
