| Author | Message | ||
     Smorris |
had a problem last Fall when put bike up for winter. trying to sort it out. last thing done prior to problem occurring was to have rear shock rebuilt. so removed and replaced. the bike stumbles at low rpm when cold. starts and idles fine. go to leave driveway and nearly dies or dies. gauges sweep CEL comes on then goes off, if it catches a 2nd breath and doesn't die. so here is a weird thing; bike sitting on side stand idling i step on left peg to climb on bike dies. it always restarts no problem, fire it up pressure on left foot peg and it stumbles, nearly dies. i go to rear of bike sit it upright and bounce it up and down and shake it side to side dies again. start it again get on ride to end of drive, turn right engine stumbles, gauges sweep, it recovers. wick it up go through gears down gravel road. turn right all ok turn around head back home. park in drive try to get to repeat by bouncing shaking...nothing happens. shut off, fan turns on... so the falling down occurs when the bike stumbles mid turn on the gravel at low speed, then dies.(the engine) FUEL? or ELECTRIC? the CEL comes on for 4 seconds when key is turned on and that is it , so no codes does the BAS throw a code, or is that even a possibility. Grounds at steering head redone few years ago . tried wiggle test there and also at ECM connectors. suggestions, recommendations, criticism... all are welcome. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Sure sounds BAS related. I don't have my electric manual at the moment but if it's a simple two wire switch maybe you can jump it to test? Sounds like some kind of electrical problem at any rate. | ||
| Arry |
The wiring bundle, that goes around the steering head, gets flexed a lot. Maybe a broken wire in that bundle. Does the problem happen when the handle bars are turned? PS - A lot of people have stripped out the kickstand mount bolts, by getting on the bike the way you described. | ||
| Froggy |
Gauge sweep means power was lost. Likely a broken connection. The BAS does not trigger a code, if it is tripped the only way it is reset is with turning the key off, so the bike would not restart on it's own if rolling. | ||
| Smorris |
it does restart while rolling so BAS it is not. will check out the front wire bundle more with flyscreen off. the bars surely did turn some while bouncing bike. thanks for the heads up on the mounting of the bike. i know i've seen a thread on here before about replacing the OEM bolts after they have broken. that would be bad. not just when mounting but if the bolts let go with it parked by other bikes or the car. thanks for input, i was actually thinking fuel, but will check out the wiring tonight or tomorrow. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Don't forget to check your grounds. Especially the one that goes between the front of the frame and the steering area. Lots of haunted crap can happen with bad grounds. As the Frogman said above, the big symptom is the gauges sweeping, indicating loss of power to the instrument cluster. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Engine dying tells me the SYSTEM is losing power, not just the gauges. Check main grounds. And I honestly don't remember, I'd have to look at my Uly on the lift...is there a sidestand switch that could be acting up? Pressure on sidestand is what makes me go there...either that or a cracked ECM and it's not the pressure on the stand/peg, but pressure on the seat, that kills the motor. | ||
| Tootal |
Start at the battery. Try and move the leads. The bolts could be tight but the leads could still move if the bolts are bottomed out. If good then the wiring under the plastic holder at the steering neck could be it. There are a couple of splices in that bundle that are known to break. | ||
| Smorris |
does loss of power equal loss of ground. i'm assuming yes because circuit is broken; but am no electrician. thanks for the input, anxious to get it figured out | ||
| Etennuly |
Is your Uly an 06? I see you fixed the ground at the steering neck. They can break again. In the harness on the left steering neck there are two triple splice cold fused splices.one in red is for power leads to everything up front. The white is for the right turn signal. These crimps are inside wax filled insulator. Take all of the tape off you can see three way crimp for all the world looking and feeling good. It will break inside making intermittent fault. Cut that thing out. Splice a single red wire to run that power lead up behind the fly screen. Then reattach those other two up there away from the bending flex area. Doing the same with the white wire is a good idea,as long as it is in your hand. | ||
| Smorris |
tightened battery cables , verified correct length fasteners there. removed fly screen to see better into front wiring. started bike shook it around got it to die . started and wiggled fuel pump wire and ecm. nothing wiggled front loon nothing. shook bike, bounced up and down on it rode. started again and died. started wiggle front wires and verified ground tight at steering head. pulled on connection that was redone years ago with multiple grounds. rode bike 4-5 miles on gravel, pavement, hay field. no problem. i think, one of the times it died, before i restarted, it swept gauges, while sitting and not running. can i preform wiggle test with out engine running and with the ignition on and just listen for the fuel pump to recycle or does it need to be running? it may be running fine now, but it is not FIXED. will recheck the the ground multi connection. remove cover and untape loom. then i guess it is up to the ignition switch. Is that the correct approach? | ||
| Etennuly |
This triple splice thing will mess with you. Intermittent as hell. When you open the wire harness remove the triple splice. I got that far, tested it, wiggled it, could find nothing wrong, put it back together and faced the same problem for another month. After I took the splicer out I cut the insulation off still not seeing a problem. Then I pulled on each of the three legs one of them pulled loose. It was near impossible to see even opened up. They made a new different shape warranty replacement loom holder for this harness to let it move easier. Like I said, splice a single wire to the lead coming from the engine side. Run it up into the fly screen area then reattach the two wires up there. Your problem will go away. If your right turn signal has ever gone stupid it has the same splicer in the same area. Might as well move that one up also. A lot of us had exactly this problem many years ago. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
UGH! I hate that! You can't fix it if it refuses to stay broken! My triple ground thing had crapped out several times too. I did as Vern said above and put a big dumb wire across it. | ||
| Smorris |
decided intermittent problem was a problem. i had addressed this years ago. so had the ground redone similar to Xbimmer's solution. and had added and modified wire loom guard based on Motorbike's post. after getting head light out of the way(thanks Tootal for the tip on removing the front beak with the headlamp assembly) and digging into it looked as if it was the main loom, because i had NOT removed enough of the material from the updated loom cover. stripped all the wrap tugged and pulled, all seemed good. Even the red and brown multiple wire fusions. Pulled and tugged at the GROUND wires and BAM. I had done a poor job with the soldier connection. tried repeatedly with the updated loom cover but could not get full swing at bars with out complications. removed updated and further modified cover. Still no satisfaction. protected with corrugated split loom and multiple zip ties. Re-did the grounds but put back to OEM location. Etennuly, thanks for the answers. going to try this. If no joy, then I'm taking to the main loom. Where did you go for the updated ground? Takes to everyone for helping out | ||
| Smorris |
well, the problem has reoccurred after 30 mile shakedown. Either i messed up again with the ground repair or i should have replaced the other 2 multi wire unions as suggested. i did not mess with them last time into the loom based on the theory my repair from years back had failed so don't screw up something in addition | ||
| Etennuly |
  Playing it out exactly as I did eh? Well.....now ya know what you need to do !!! | ||
| Smorris |
Etennuly, Even your time frame was spot on. It was the red wire crimp, one of the wires pulled out after carving away the adhesive, strands of wire broken just as you predicted. followed your advise completely this time and re-wired the other multi-crimp as well. thanks. | ||
| Tootal |
I still haven't done this and I think that since I removed the plastic loom holder early on it has made it last longer. I think I'm going to go in there and do it anyway since the other day I tried to start it but not much happened. I removed the seat to check fuses and found nothing blown. Tried it with the seat off and it fired. Wiggled the ecm wires and no difference. Put the seat on and no difference. So I don't know if it was removing the seat or did I also move the steering? I rode it afterward and everything seemed fine. Time for some preventative maintenance! | ||
| Etennuly |
I did it as you did for exactly the Same reason. I hate cutting into a wire loom. It is likely I could cause more damage that can't be seen. That red little buggar had me miffed even when I cut that wax filled insulation off from it. Then I moved one wire at the crimp and it just came apart. What I cannot figure is the break showed no signs of being burned where it would arc. Oh well. Its fixed. |
