| Author | Message | ||
     X1bully |
I got the full isolator kit but only just looked at it. It's from lances HD.. Damn the right is very expensive $96. Left $18 Front $46 I noticed the right is made in 2017 and looks rough. Not worth a return right? It had lots of bumps on it compared to the left that is smooth. Left is made in 2014.  | ||
| X1bully |
Also planning on just installing the right one for now. Can't afford the billet engine front mount since I want to do that with the new front isolator. | ||
| 651lance |
The left is obsolete and has been for almost three years. We get the rights from HD warehouse and the left from vintage. Around the same time the obsoleted the left they placed a big order for the rights and they went on back order for a few months. We have seen any issues with either side. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Is the metal backing the rough part or is it coated with rough stuff? | ||
| Buellrobot |
Are the obsolete ones inferior to the newer "rough" textured version, or is it essentially the same level of functionality? | ||
| 651lance |
I just looked at all our stock. The cleaner looking ones are the obsolete L0504.9 and the L0505.9 is the rougher looking one. All the L0504.9 we have in stock look the same. | ||
| X1bully |
So the rubber on the new one 2017 is stronger? I got the upgraded new front one with smaller bolt. So there are 2017 lefts? And they have the texture like the right? Can I exchange my left for a 2017 Left? Is it the same price? The metal in the back is smooth on both. | ||
| 651lance |
There is and rev so all the components and compounds are the same. All the left will be 2014 and the right 2017. 2014 is the last year they made the left side. | ||
| X1bully |
Ok interesting. I just want the most up to date parts if I'm going to replace them. I have a question about the pin hole. Is there a pin on the frame itself or is this another piece that fits between isolator and frame? | ||
| 651lance |
Should be a roll pin in the frame. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Just did the Scott Free method last week to change out the isolators on my s1w. Easy job compared to the horror stories I’ve read. Went smoothly, just follow the SB on the install. I stayed with the taller hex bolts. I’ve heard some say go to the button head torx to prevent rubbing the isolator. Then some say the button head torx are no good. | ||
| Sportyeric |
I've got two sets in the fridge. Where they'll stay till I need them. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
He has an X1 with the sweet secret panels in the frame for the scott free method isn't relevant here. What is relevant is knowing that there is a tiebar in the back under the hugger fender that needs to be removed so that the engine can flop over to replace the left hand side. (Took me a looong time to figure this out!) | ||
| Hootowl |
Helps to remove the one in front too. I've swapped X1 isos in 30 minutes, soup to nuts. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The first and only time I replaced mine, the bike was held up to the garage rafters with tiedowns and ropes while the engine was jacked up from below. It looked like that scene from "Hellraiser" with the fish hooks and chains. I had every damn thing off (I thought) and yet I still couldn't get the left side swapped out. That's when I noticed the damn tiebar in the back under the hugger. Took me longer to put all of the dumb stuff back on that I didn't even have to touch than it took to do the relevant stuff. So yeah, my front was off as was the top bottom inside outside between seat tank power steering pump |
