| Author | Message | ||
     Yan |
When the handlebars are turned to the right I have no horn, no brake, no high beam, and no starter. I know it's usually a bad ground that causes these problems, but in my case I checked the horn and it is getting the ground alright, but it's the hot wire that goes to the horn that's not "hot" when the bars are to the right and the horn button is pushed. Looking at the electrical diagram I can see that a R/BK wire from connector #3 at the ignition switch, if damaged between the ignition switch and key switch relay, would cause no power to the brake/horn and the lights fuses, which would explain everything including no starter (connector 30 of the starter relay is being fed from the lights fuse, which is somewhat deceiving as the relay clicks but starter doesn't turn). Does any of this make sense, or am I digging in the wrong direction? Thanks! (Message edited by Yan on October 22, 2017) | ||
| Etennuly |
Most of the earlier Ulys had a crimped triple wire splice in the harness where it passes from the frame side over the steering neck to the fork side of the headlight housing. Late 07 they changed the clamp on the forward side but that splice would still break. I made an extension for the power lead moving the triple splice up into the flyscreen area. When you unwrap this splicer it can look fine but still be broken. The right turn signal wire in that same area has a splice that also can fail. Moved it too. On the steering neck the ground wire loop can crack from turning but look normal. You must remove the bolt to inspect it. I added a couple of inches of coiled loop wire to reduce stress on the wire loop. | ||
| Yan |
Thanks Etennuly Question for you - did you put that plastic cover back (and stuffed the loom and the cables under it) or you left them freely hanging? I've seen a discussion (that I wish I had bookmarked as I can't locate it anymore) where people strongly suggested NOT to put that cover back up as it just makes things worse. Thank you! Yan | ||
| Tootal |
I took that cover off before I had any problems and haven't had any problems. I just loosely wire tied it there. | ||
| Ourdee |
Your all going to void the warranties.  | ||
| Yan |
"Your all going to void the warranties." oops! | ||
| Ourdee |
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| Hugie03flhr |
I have the right blinker, odometer reset and gauge sweep with the key off. For the most part I'm pretty sure it's the 2 spices (brown and red wires)that get stressed. Pulling that wire retainer helped temporarily. Yours sounds a little different but if you are in there, check these wires. I stole this pic from another Bueller.  The ground wire is the first place I would check before diving into this. | ||
| Yan |
Thanks! I did the job last night - it was, as I suspected, the red wire with a black stripe, that was damaged (with the insulation intact). I decided not putting that plastic guide back - the cables are loosely zip-tied and the bundle of wires is free floating - time will tell how this setup will work  | ||
| Etennuly |
They made a revised plastic wire retainer I think it was in 08. By moving the splices up behind the fly screen i reduced the bundle diameter quite a bit. So using the new style clip was easy. |
