| Author | Message | ||
     Williamscottrobertson |
95 S2, Getting a clickity clack / knocking noise at low rpm idling and a nasty click/clank on shutdown. Video here: https://youtu.be/d3CcvZePVz4 Pull fine, and makes good power. No oil leaks. Haven't had a chance to trouble shoot much. Maybe loose primary chain? | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Let the oil out and have a look for metal. Or stick a magnet into the oil tank. | ||
| Hootowl |
Primary chain slop is easy enough to check. | ||
| Ebutch |
Yes check primary set to spec,  | ||
| Two_seasons |
If you recently replaced your rocker box gaskets, it may be that a lifter isn't pumped up. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I replaced the base gaskets and installed pigtails, replaced a burned exhaust valve in the rear cylinder, bronze oil pump gear, and updated primary tensioner. I've ridden it about 120 miles and all was well until about the last 20 miles. Like an old tractor lol. I'll try the suggestions here and check the primary chain tension. Beyond that, I'm not sure, may take it to a local harley shop and see what they think. | ||
| Ebutch |
Loose prim. chain I thought my S2 was knocking till adjusted.  | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I'll be curious to see what you find. My bike makes a little racket when it idles with the choke on and the engine is around 2k rpm, or when I'm riding and the engine speed dips down around 2000-2200 rpm. It definitely sounds like it could be the primary chain, but I just checked it a few weeks ago and it wasn't loose, it was actually at 1/2" and I know people here recommend 3/4" so it's even a little tight. Otherwise the engine doesn't make any weird noises and pulls well. | ||
| Dblast |
The primary sprocket nut on crankshaft is probably lose. | ||
| Odinolson |
I agree with Dblast, we had several bikes in the shop with loose primary sprocket nuts. One bad shift can work them loose. | ||
| Hootowl |
Yup. Forgot about that. You should check that sooner rather than later. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
While it's making the sound at a stop in gear, allow the clutch to drag. Does this make the sound stop? | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I'm hoping it's something simple like tension or the a primary nut. I'll try the clutch drag first. Thank you for the suggestions. I haven't had time to troubleshoot it between work and the kids. | ||
| Two_seasons |
If the final drive nut is loose (front pulley for drive belt), then you'd hear a "squeek" from a dead stop to up around 15mph and also coming back down to a dead stop. This only happens when the pulley becomes wobbly. If the nut is an issue, you will need, at a minimum, the nut, the two screws, and the retaining plate. All together those items are about $15 at your local HD dealer. If you also need the pulley, they are about $105. And, whatever you do, do not use an impact driver to tighten it. Loosening it is OK with an impact, but do not tighten with one. Use a torque wrench and follow the service manual. | ||
| S1owner |
You will also need the pulley locking tool to remove or tighten the nut!! And its left hand threads with red locktight so you may need some heat but be careful as there is a seal there | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I pulled the primary off my Blast last year to adjust the shift pawl. Couldn't be much different. | ||
| Hootowl |
Pretty much the same, yeah. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Ok, tightened the primary chain, it was a bit loose. That helped with the clatter but it's definitely still there. Looks like I may be pulling the primary cover again and taking a peek. I'm leaning towards the crank nut being loose on the primary. Maybe I can get some time this weekend to pop it off and let you guys know if that's what I find. (Message edited by Williamscottrobertson on August 25, 2017) | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I got a chance to pull the primary. The nut definitely wasn't torqued to 200ftlb and came off fairly easily. The rotor had side to side play and seemed to mar the splines a little. There wasn't even red loctite on the nut, it had what looked white and powdery like thread sealer. The PO told me he put a new charging system on it, not sure why. Anyway, I put the updated shifter detent plate on while I had the primary off. I put the nut on and all my weight (230lb) on the nut and breaker bar to tighten it with red loctite. Seems all the play is gone. I buttoned it back up and I'm letting the loctite set overnight to cure before I start it up.    | ||
| S1owner |
Dryed locktight will turn white depending on brand but sounds like it was not on correctly from the PO. Hope that fixed it! | ||
| Cyclone8u |
Anyway, I put the updated shifter detent plate on while I had the primary off. Every problem with a Buell is just an opportunity to make an improvement  | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
This would be a very good time to make sure you have the updated tensioner shoe thing. Very easy to tell the difference at a glance:  | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Started her up this morning. The knock is gone! Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I put the new tensioner in a while back while I was doing all the other updates. I had the new detent plate but was being lazy and didn't want to pull the primary sprockets because I knew they were (supposed to be anyway) torqued very tight and I didn't have an impact. Now, I haven't had a chance to ride it to see if it shifts ok with the new detent plate. I didn't adjust the pawl, I just popped off one plate and installed another. I didn't have the required drill bit available. (Message edited by Williamscottrobertson on August 30, 2017) | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Let us know how the shifting feels after the switch. I planned on trying to swap mine this winter. | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Wilco. Shifting was definitely more different than I expected when I parked my s2 for repair after riding it for a while and jumping on my 00 S3. The throw was a bit less and the gears felt closer together with less effort to shift. Didn't think much was different between the transmissions of a 95 vs 00 XL, but apparently there is!! | ||
| Two_seasons |
That nut had to be loose for awhile. Those splines are really torn up. Now time to enjoy riding again and have one when you get back  | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Finally got to ride the S2 yesterday for about 50 miles. I must say the shifting feel definitely improved with the detent plate. Much firmer and more refined, more snap between gear changes and less throw. I'll be checking this out on my S1W, not sure when they started installing the updated detent plate, I'm thinking around 2000 MY. Occasionally on a downshift the shifter is stiff to push down and sometimes stays in the down position. Anyone run into this? | ||
| Edv |
The bushings in the boomerang part of the shifter on the peg sometimes dry out and I give mine a squirt of oil once in a while(I use Gibbs spray oil) and it frees up the shifting. Like you say it is more pronounced on the downshift than the upshift | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Thanks edy, I'll try that! | ||
| Hootowl |
"I knew they were (supposed to be anyway) torqued very tight and I didn't have an impact" Do NOT use an impact wrench on your primary nut. The magnets on the rotor may fall off. |
