| Author | Message | ||
     Awolfe |
Hey guys! Just bought a 97 S1 project and I could use some recommendations on best sites for parts. I had a 99 m2 but it's been about 7 years so I'm not sure what's what anymore when it comes to ordering parts online. Thanks! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If you're looking for new parts, Saint Paul now has all of their stuff online: https://sphdonline.com/ They effectively filled the gap left by AmericanSportbike. | ||
| Blks1l |
Hello see you are in Austin, did you buy S1 locally? Just curious, I am in Georgetown and used to know a lot of the Buellers in the area? SPHD is a good parts source as mentioned. | ||
| Cyclone8u |
I'm in the process of refreshing my 99 M2, SP-HD as mentioned has been good. I've gotten quick service from Ironmachine https://www.ironmachine.com MC Moto-worx, run by a fellow Badwebber I believe has my next shift lever (soon I hope) as well as some other nice looking goodies http://www.mcmoto-worx.com/buell-tube-framed-parts .html Twin mc in the Netherlands has a lot of good stuff including some decent priced shocks that have gotten good reviews here https://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/index.asp?m c=1 And if your bike is like most, looking at the rusting and corroding fasteners can be painful, I stumbled across this site that looks promising http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Buell-S1-Lightning-En gine-Body-Frame-Forks-screw-kit_A662H.aspx?nh=1 And last but not least, don't leave out your local H-D dealer. Mine wasn't Buell friendly when they sold them, but if I have a part number in hand, they've been good about getting what I need. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Stainless kit looks nice, but it'd be good to know ahead of time exactly which areas the bolts are strong enough for. I see some like the caliper bolts and muffler mounts that are probably supposed to be grade 8, not stainless. | ||
| Cyclone8u |
Well, I know that stainless can be had in grade 8 rating. I just sent them a message inquiring what theirs are rated. On the subject of parts sources, anybody try these guys? http://www.buellsterparts.com | ||
| Cyclone8u |
Awolfe, before i forget, how about a pic of your new project? (Message edited by Cyclone8u on September 01, 2017) | ||
| Cyclone8u |
FYI - I heard back from the A2stainless people, here is their response: our stainless bolts are A2-70 grade, which has an UTS of 700N/mm2 (Grade 8.8 is 800Nmm2) we do not recommend stainless for stressed applications; brakes, suspension, cylinder hold-down bolts etc. if in any doubt, better to fit an OEM part hope this is helpful So their stuff is below grade 8.8 (SAE Grade 5) which is crap. Looks like for the important parts you need to go to Totaly Stainless who sells grade 10.9/SAE grade 8 http://shop.totallystainless.com/productlisthighst rengthbolts.php | ||
| Awolfe |
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| Hootowl |
Couple of things: Check your belt tension. You should be able to easily push the belt down into the swingarm mounting block. If you cannot, you are destroying your wheel bearings and output sprocket. That shock was recalled. Some people are still comfortable using them. You should look up the recall and decide whether you're comfortable continuing to use it as is. Lots of people are. Lots are not. | ||
| S1owner |
Has some nice upgrades. Ride it see how you like it has pretty low bars. For stainless goto fastenal they can get anything you want | ||
| Cyclone8u |
Wow, looks like you've got a nice baseline for a project bike. +1 with what Hootowl said, I'd run down through all the basic mods/adjustments like clutch, shifter pawl, new style primary adjuster plate, etc. I think someone was putting together a compilation of Buell 101's from the late Buellistic somewhere - that would be a great resource. | ||
| S1owner |
I am the keeper of the Buellistics 101's | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I would trade you a nice 16.5" showa for the WP shock if you decide you don't want to use it. | ||
| Cyclone8u |
Good to know S1, he had some great insight and the most straightforward instructions you could ever want. I thought I had read at one point of all his 101's getting a spot in the knowledge base. Awolfe - I remembered an important one, don't forget the oil drive gear. The teeth on mine had significant wear at only 16K miles. | ||
| Awolfe |
Thanks guys! I'll post pictures of progress. The first thing I wanna do before riding it is move those controls to a mid position. Is that pretty easy to do? Also those bars have got to go! Haha I'm starting to run through everything this weekend. | ||
| S1owner |
They come stock with a short rise bar that fits under the speedo mount and you have it all there just need the bars. As long as they did not mess with the original harness and cables it should be a 30 minute project and you will gain 5" of bar hieght or so | ||
| Upthemaiden |
You should be able to move your pegs forward without too much trouble. As far as I know, the Buell pro series rearsets just relocate the original peg mounts. You should be able to remove them from the rearsets and put them back in the original position on the frame. The brake lever that came with your rearsets should work fine in the original location. I've been told the shifter will not work because it does not have the clearance and will hit the primary cover. You'll need to find one of the original boomerang shift levers, either steel or aluminum, along with the shorter rod to connect it to the front shift lever. You could also track down one of the newer style levers like what you see on an X1. You can find any of them on ebay, but the prices on shifters tend to be pretty crazy there, maybe someone here has the parts you need and will sell them to you. If you're planning on selling the rearsets you'll probably just want to pick up an original brake lever too so you can leave that pro-series shifter with the rearsets. That much is up to you though. Let us know if they didn't all make sense, I can find some links to the specific parts you need. | ||
| Hootowl |
You can likely sell the rearsets and have enough to buy the original shifter. And then some. Those rearsets are hen's teeth. |
