| Author | Message | ||
     Smccloud5 |
While driving to work this morning, I was about 30 minutes into my ride going 70mph and engine just died. I had to quickly pull over into median. I had this same issue two weeks again and read it could have been the ignition module going bad. I replaced it and also replace the intake boot. Still having same issues. Any idea what I can look at next? This is my first post and have tried to read as much as possible on these boards. | ||
| Smccloud5 |
Forgot to add... while waiting about 10 minutes I tried to start it up and was able to make the last 10 minutes into work. Worried the same thing will happen going home. | ||
| Txswimdad |
Sounds like the Ignition Module is giving up. It is referenced in the link below. Easiest thing to do is pry off the cover that is part of the cover to see it. Get to know what the blinking LED looks like on that board while starting and working properly. Go ride around the block (within pushing distance) until it fails, then immediately try to start while looking at it. You will probably see that it is not blinking. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/147271.html | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Cloud 5, Make sure the vent hose from the gas cap is not clogged shut. If you have an air compressor at work try blowing through the vent hose. If you don't have a compressor wrap your lips around it and blow. If it is clogged and the tank is not too full of gas you can drive with it disconnected until you can replace the hose. You can find windshield wiper hose that is about the correct size, or use the vent like the dirt bike guys use. Kenny G | ||
| Smccloud5 |
Txswimdad - I actually replaced the ignition module and the same issue occurred with the new one at about the same spot in my ride to work. The new one could be bad, but I would hope not. I ordered part number Y0459.11A7 from local Harley dealership. Kenny_gilgore - I tried opening the gas cap to check if it was a venting issue and still had the same issue. Thank you both for the suggestions. Anything else? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Is it a California model? Definitely leave the timing cover off so you can check the LED immediately. Are you close to reserve? Ignition-tank vent would've been my first two question also. | ||
| Smccloud5 |
I live in Ohio and bought it two weeks ago. It has 2800 miles. What designates if it is a CA model? I filled up with 93 octane and was only 30 miles into the tank. It was still in the ON position. The new ignition module that I ordered and installed was different than the one I replaced, but see on this site that the model numbers did change. My fuel tank vent tube does not appear to be free hanging like some have said. I will try and track if it is attached to anything and post back tonight. I loaded it up in the truck and will transport home. I have to be honest, I was kind of freaked out when it stalled at freeway speeds and I had to get out of traffic. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
It will say CA on the swingarm sticker or up at the VIN number on the frame neck. It will also have a charcol canister (about the size of a soda can) under the seat frame area (above the wheel) with hoses going to it. Vent tube does not free hang when stock. loosening the gas cap should quickly relieve any tank vent issues. Check the LED immediately when it shuts down. You could have a bad safety switch such as the kickstand switch, neutral switch or BAS (Bank Angle Sensor) switch. Regrettably you'll probably have to wait until it shuts down again to diagnose it. Shutting down when the bike heats up is a common electrical problem. Most often its the coil, but with the Blast is most often the ignition module and rarely the coil. Was the new module in a sealed factory package? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Shutting down in highway traffic is hair raising. Imagine shutting down in heavy LA traffic and having to put your kickstand down, in the middle of traffic, to jump on the kickstarter!!! Neither are fun and entail some really quick thinking! We'll get you reliable again. The Blast is very reliable, but often with a new used bike, you bought a problem. The Blast is easy to fix. | ||
| Jetlee |
Dirty petcock (fuel valve) has caused similar issues in at least a couple cases. | ||
| Smccloud5 |
Thanks for all the help so far. Ok, its not a CA model. Also, the vent hose is about 4 feet long and runs down frame and is open at bottom near oil lines. I took the hose off and blew it out. Nothing seemed to be in the line. I also took fuel line off and turn on using main and reserve and both flow freely. I took off the carbon boot to make sure it was still seated and looks fine. I did find an issue with back side of carb gasket. It is paper and broke in 3 pieces with taking off plastic air box. I don't think this would cause random stalling would it? What is a better replacement? Thanks again! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I don't think there is a better replacement for that gasket, unless you cut your own. That wouldn't cause random shutdown and no restart. It's very likely a safety switch. You'll have to wait until it shuts down and check the LED. You could just bypass all the safety switches, but I don't like the idea of just "fixing" things and hoping it solves the problem. Petcock, tank vent and fuel flow problems usually surface the lower the fuel in the tank gets. Carry a spare spark plug and leave the timing cover off (it will be fine off). When it dies, check the LED. If the LED flashes, then use your spare plug to check for spark. A good LED flash and no spark is usually the BAS (Bank Angle Sensor). What fails my memory is this: I'm pretty sure if the kickstand switch, neutral safety switch or clutch safety switch is bad, then there is no LED (opposite of the BAS). But it's been a really long time since I've had one or had to check one. IMPORTANT: DO NOT take the carb apart "to give it a good cleaning". This is rarely ever needed and often leads to more problems. But undoubtedly someone is going to tell you to do this, if they haven't already. (It's because they have no idea what's wrong and they hope it fixes your problem). Have you done anything else besides replace the ignition module? Changed turn signals, replace wiring, ANY other work or modifications that might have been done. Seriously, anything? | ||
| Smccloud5 |
When I bought it, I was told it idled high due to bad das boot. I replaced it, but issue still remains. I then replaced the ignition module. Still same issue. I checked today and previous i stalled iridium plug #ixu01-27. Everything else looks stock. I was riding tonight and twice going down slight downgrade it starts to stall out. Lights still flashing on ignition module. Does this sound like safety or sensor? Tomorrow, I will try long ride and see if it fully dies and check ignition module. | ||
| Smccloud5 |
Is timing cover the cover over ignition module or left side of engine plastic cover? I thought maybe the later since you mentioned the spark plug. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Timing cover is over the ignition module It has to die completely and not restart for a reliable diagnosis. Things you can check in the meantime: Kickstand stays up and spring is still good (they rarely fail on the Blast though). Kickstand switch is tight and the wires are plugged together (the plug is just in front of the shock, above the swing arm). The BAS switch is tight. Tight = not loose. They aren't grounded to their mount, so you don't have to crank down on the bolts to be sure they are tight. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 The BAS is just below the torx head bolt on the left (you'll have a plastic rivet there instead), just under the silver frame rail, above the + battery cable. You can just see it poking out about 1/8" beyond the frame rail to the rear of the bike. It is bolted to the relay on the battery side of the frame. (Message edited by Gearheaderiko on June 05, 2016) | ||
| Smccloud5 |
I made my first full ride to work ( about 40 minutes without dying ). I replaced the gasket on the carb that was torn, I switched the clutch diode and connected the kickstand wires to bypass the safety. There was no bog or dying during my entire trip. I rode around the neighborhood for about 30 minutes with no issues so decided to give it a try. I felt so good pulling into the parking lot! Thank you guys very much for the help. I am not sure exactly what fixed the problem and hopefully today is not just a good day. I will keep you posted. | ||
| Wrightd223 |
I'm rooting for you Smccloud5, nothing worse than tasting success and then going back to square one. Fingers crossed! | ||
| Ezblast |
Kickstand and clutch safeties are common issues. EZ | ||
| Dakatak87 |
I had a similar problem with mine. It ended up being my battery. | ||
| Smccloud5 |
Update/Question - Thanks again for everyone's previous help. If I have my gas cap closed and locked and my fuel switch in the on position, the engine will occasionally cut off and die. If I run on Reserve with the gas cap unlocked and slightly open ( not enough for gas to come out ), this problem never occurs. I checked the fuel tank vent hose and even disconnected it from tank nipple and issue is still the same. What can I check next? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Fuel tank rollover valve may be bad. Replace or disable (you'll have to take it off to disable it). | ||
| Ezblast |
Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) safety switch bypass: The BAS has 3 wires going to it. The white wire with a black stripe is "hot" or positive. Double check it to be sure you have the correct wire. It is the only one that is "hot". Do nothing with this wire. The other two wires should be connected together. Flip center diode - disables clutch safety Cut and twist together and tape the two wires going to kickstand safety. EZ | ||
| Smccloud5 |
Hello everyone. Its been about a year since my last post. Ive put about 5000 miles on the blast with no issues. Going to work on Friday, the blast started losing power about 20 minutes into my ride. Full throttle in 4th gear was 60mph. Heard a pop and engine cut off. Got it home and realized the pop was the boot getting blown off. I had a spare and changed and put a new gasket on front of crab. Ive also bypassed the kickstand, clutch and BAS. Spark plug is getting a spark and engine tries to turn over, but won't start. I looked back through this post and am running out of ideas. Any thoughts? thanks in advance for the help. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Will it start with starter fluid? Did you bypass all that stuff before or after this problem? | ||
| Smccloud5 |
The bypassed safeties were done last year. When I tried using starting fluid it has blown the boot off twice now. Would a clogged jet cause the back pressure to do this? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No. If starting fluid is blowing the carb off, you have a timing issue. Either the module is bad, the timing cup is loose or a valve is malfunctioning. In theory you should be able to start the bike with starting fluid without even having the carb on the bike. It volatile stuff. If you're not even getting it to fire, except to blow the carb off that indicates the exhaust valve isn't working or the timing is way off. Does anything come out the exhaust? Those are my initial thoughts on what I've read. If you have a compression tester, that would tell a lot. | ||
| Smccloud5 |
The compression test came back at 130. I feel air coming out of the exhaust when trying to start. I have external battery jumping motorcycle battery as I killed it while trying to start. What electronics could have failed with my symptoms that may need replaced? I will research the Exhaust Valve and make sure the timing cup is tight tonight. |
