| Author | Message | ||
     Sarodude |
Picked up a 2000 Blast a few weeks ago. It had about 5000 miles on the clock. It has some odd clutch behavior I have my own ideas about but I'd like some input, so here it is. In short, if I let out enough clutch (when in gear at a stop) to feel it drag and begin to roll the bike (I roll it backwards for this test) the clutch grabs more / less / more / less seemingly in sync with the turning of the input shaft. At a standstill, the clutch drag / engagement height stays wherever it happens to be unless you allow the bike to roll. The main practical symptoms are that the clutch is unpredictable WRT where it's gonna grab along with a somewhat "Square Wheel" feeling at very low speeds while slipping the clutch. Possible contributing factors: * The bike lived in San Francisco (hills, climate). * The bike appears to have been thrashed upon by at least one owner / rider with not enough respect for the bike to properly return it to working order after numerous low speed incidents. * The bike suffered from the typical dealer service eff ups: Poor primary chain adjustment, improper isolator bracket bolt torqueing, animal tightening of carb boot resulting in a split, etc... Oh, it got the recall sprocket just days before I took delivery. Interesting. EVERYTHING else is ABSOLUTELY NORMAL once the clutch is all gathered up and not slipping. -Saro | ||
| Sarodude |
One more Clutch note: The behavior I described above during the test (release clutch until slight drag is felt and roll the bike) feels similar with the engine on or off with the rather obvious exception being that when on, of course the bike wants to move forward. Has anyone improvised a tool to help disassemble the clutch in case that's what needs to be done? -Saro | ||
| Aesquire |
I have a 2001 M2L, does it already have the new primary chain adjuster? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I think they started appearing in 2001... not sure when, not sure if that is even the right date. If you call Buell customer service with your VIN, they can tell you for sure. | ||
| Sarodude |
OK... Clutch is out and it looks like I'm gonna have to beg a dealer mechanic to take it apart since there was nothing else wrong in the primary. I was kinda hoping for a couple of easy fixes - but I didn't honestly expect to see anything like that. Last call - is there an easy kludge to get the clutch apart? I've got a press. Haven't thought it through, but I wonder if I can't somehow use a press instead of the threaded tool to push on that clutch spring... -Saro | ||
| Reepicheep |
I asked the same question a while back, and got the same answer (nothing). Sure seems like it would be possible to rig something up. I know that sportster clutch is a lot more serious then the one in the old Yamaha 600cc inline 4 I pulled apart and put back together in my driveway (with no problem)... but it can't be THAT much worse. I solved my problem by identifying that my "slipping clutch" was actually tire hop from my D220 rear. Just throw on a Metzler, a much simpler fix  | ||
| Lothodon |
anyone have any info on a primary chain self adjuster for the xb's? had one on my old sporty and loved it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If you are talking about the... whats the name... M6 or something, people here had serious issues with them. They would groove along one side, at which point the sliding shoe would stick in position and no longer extend. Aaron posted pictures around here somewhere... but in general we try and avoid the things. That being said, it should be possible to engineer a design without the shortcomings of the one we were looking at. Give us a shout if you find one that looks like it ought to work. | ||
| Tripp |
hey newfie, it appears that your old tensioner was the newer beefier one in the side view, the old style was really puny BTW that statement on your frame is pretty damn funny! | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Maybe a silly question..... I'm buttoning up the motor this weekend after a long winter of work. My question is in regards to the primary cover gasket. Do I need to use any type of gasket seal on that? All the manual says is to "Wipe gasket surface clean. Install new gasket on primary cover". Sounds to me like that means no sealer. But when I removed the cover, there was some silicone type substance between the gasket and the inner primary (opposite side of gasket from cover). Thanks!!!! | ||
| Hootowl |
Nope, no sealer. There is a new type of gasket out now that's much better than the only paper ones. It's got a metal core. No more flopping around and having to use dowels to align stuff. The "substance" was most likely an adhesive the assembler used to hold the flimsy paper gasket in place. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Thanks Hoot!!! I didn't think it need a sealer. The last thing I want is a nice gear lube leak. But it would make cornering interesting | ||
| Reepicheep |
The old paper gaskets had an orange RTV (silicone) bead on them... The new metal ones are much better. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Has anyone replaced the Trox bolts on the clutch inspection cover with an allen bolt? I stripped the damn things again (and now it's leaking) /clipart{angry}. What's the size & thread on them? What material (aluminium or stainless)? | ||
| Davefl |
I did that to both of my Bikes. Not sure on how long but they are 1/4 20 thread. I used stainless. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Harley has chromed allen head replacements in blister pack in the showroom... thats what I used, work great. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I replaced mine with SS allen heads acquired from the local hardware store. $2 if memory serves. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Thanks all! Stopped at Fastenal during my lunch break. $3.00 for SS button head allens and washers. Should be fixed in a gif  | ||
| Al_lighton |
And an FYI, if you manage to strip the threads on those, the holes are blind but there is still enough depth to drill and tap for a helicoil installation. Al | ||
| Pete_o |
Hi, first time posting, been lurking for a while. I purchased a used 2000 S3 with 2000 miles. After coming back from first long ride, I noticed rear tire was shiny. It was shiny because the primary oil dumped out the bottom through the gasket. After taking the primary cover off, I saw that the gasket was shredded at the thick part on the bottom. Any opinions why this happened on a relatively low mileage bike? It had been sitting at a dealer for a year. I'm going to replace the gasket with the metal one and put the new tensioner on. I also recall reading something about S3s needing to have the drive sprocket nut retorqued, is this true? Thanks for any help, I knew going into this that I'd have to do some wrenching, but didn't expect it to be this soon. Pete | ||
| Reepicheep |
It's easy to end up shredding that gasket. You can do a perfect install, take it for a ride, and forget to retorque the bolts after a couple heat cycles, and that will blow out. I have had the same exact thing happen to me after replacing the primary gasket. The new metal gaskets work much better, either harley or cometic, the James paper gaskets work better then the harley paper gaskets. But either way, be sure to retorque the primary cover bolts after the first couple heat cycles. It's a pretty easy job, and an honest mistake from the dealer or previous owner. Throw mobil 1 gear oil in there when the job is done and your shifting will be a lot nicer. | ||
| Bomber |
reep -- thanks for reminding me . . .. note to self . . .. .retorque the damned primary fasteners . . . .. sheesh . . . .. . sometimes I think if my head wasn't welded on . . . .. . . | ||
| Ezblast |
Is the oil seal the brass insert in the cover? If so how do I get the old out and the new in? When the basket/chain/sprocket comes off - what should I be looking for that would be wrong type of thing - simptoms - shift into first light N disapears and click but no engagement, same thing going to second. So far I've detected no broken parts in the cover - its off - buying certain tools tomorrow for the rest of the disassembly. Thanks ahead of time for any hints! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Reepicheep |
We really need to bug Henrik to get his mini-site back up... I got the webspace if you got the files. No brass, the new ones are all rubber, the old ones have what looks like a parkerized metal ring (dark green) attached to rubber, its annoying to get out and really easy to scratch the surface it seals against. It will be more obvious when you get in there. It goes "inside" the stator around the crank, into the engine part (not the primary cover part). Let us know what you find. Split primary chain tensioner, and clip popped off detent plate are the most common situations. It would not hurt to pop the seal off the end of your 5th gear drive assembly (inside the front sprocket, other side of bike) and look for rust in there as well. You will need a new seal afterwards, they are cheap. | ||
| Wman |
The seal on the input shaft is the same seal used on G.M. TH350,400,allison 500. If you happen to know a tranny rebuilder or auto mechanic there are pullers and install driver for auto. application that work well on Buells. | ||
| Captainkirk |
The clip on the detent plate, little rascal that it is, is not visible without a mirror unless you pull the clutch basket. And the mirror's eye view is poor at best. Pull the crank sprocket, chain and clutch basket as a unit. It doesn't hurt to index the clutch basket and crank sprocket with a permanent marker line and make a corresponding mark above each on the case parting seam. That way they'll go back on in exactly the same position as when you took them off. Don't know if it's really necessary, but it can't hurt. The socket size on the M2 are (Primary)28mm and (clutch 30mm) The clutch basket threads should be left hand thread. This is assuming your Blast! motor is the same. You'll need a deep-well 28mm impact for the primary sprocket. Cover the end of the crank with electrical tape to avoid nicking it with the socket. Good luck! | ||
| Ezblast |
OK - so my problem was a broken belt - lol - so now my trick is to make sure everything is ok and button it back up - now the shift shaft oil seal - I read all the Primary KV, received hints, but with Henriks' site gone - some stuff was missing - like where this seal goes - I suspect on the shifter shaft after the splines - how far down - all the way? and facing which way - flat side towards the primary cover or grooved side - tape the splines and use a 1/4" piece of pvc - sch. 40? I really don't want to mess up now - help would be appreciated. GT - JBOTDS! EZ edited by ezblast on June 08, 2004 | ||
| Ezblast |
elo?...tap, tap, tap, test - 1 2 3 pt # 37101-84 GT - JBOTDS! EZ  edited by ezblast on June 09, 2004 | ||
| Reepicheep |
Henriks site was the crank seal, which is "inside" the rotor assembly, all the way inside the primary. Thats the one you need to go build tools for. I have had my primary off at least 10 times, and have only replaced that shifter shaft seal once. Just be gentle on reassembly and don't tear it up. | ||
| Ezblast |
So it is in the cover itself? I don't really know (still haven't found the old one and thats looking at the cover and shaft, I figure it got poped off on disassembly) - manual says to replace with the gasket - so do I install it before or after the cover goes on?, and why didn't anyone say it was in the cover to begin with? - Geez - I - whom is doing this for the first time and wanting to get it right - am asking straight forward questions here. Help please - should it be installed before or after the cover is put on? and what would be the best method of installing it? Which way should it face - grooved side towards the cover or smooth side? - the manual mentions nothing on this topic! GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
