| Author | Message | ||
     Save_ferris |
Coming home from the garage party at Homecoming, my stator went south. It's an '09XT with 18k on the clock. I am waiting for an answer regarding replacing it with an 03-07 38 amp stator and MOSFET regulator. My question is, even though I have no clutch issues, should I replace it while I'm in there, and what clutches do you guys recommend? I have a few 500+ mile trips ahead this summer. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Are you sure it's the stator? The 08-up single phase stators seem to be pretty reliable. The voltage regulators, not so much. If it is bad, I'm pretty sure the 06-07 3-phase higher output stator will bolt right in as long as you change the VR too. Unless you're abusing the hell out of it, I'd think the clutch should be good for at least 50k miles or so. I wouldn't bother it at this point. | ||
| Ourdee |
Leave the clutch alone unless you have been doing parade duty with it. What leads you to think stator instead of voltage regulator? If you are replacing the voltage regulator with a Shindengen FH020AA MOSFET, It can be used with the earlier 3 phase stator or the 08 and up single phase stator. The three phase hooks all three wires to it. where the single phase only hooks up to two of the connections. Leaving one spot vacant. I bought through http://roadstercycle.com/ . Get the complete Shindengen FH020AA kit and a couple of extra feet of wire. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Wouldn't that reduce the current capacity by two thirds? (Message edited by natexlh1000 on June 12, 2017) | ||
| Save_ferris |
I actually only have troubleshot it to 12.2V at the battery off, and 12.2V running at idle also. I will dig a little deeper before I actually purchase, but I had read about upgrading to the earlier 3 phase setup on here before, and it seemed like a good time to go ahead with it. Definitely through roadsters cycle. My focus since the Uly went down was to get the SX back on the road. That's done now, so I have something to ride. I will keep y'all apprised. Thanks for the input. | ||
| Motorfish |
I just took my annual bike trip, and when out for a day ride, my signal dynamics voltage led started going nuts. Blinking green, then solid green, yellow and so on. A roadside stator test showed the stator grounded, but still putting out voltage. Anyway, I rode about 400 miles home with a bad feeling, and the led going red, about 12.4 volts, for the last 30 miles. I ordered a Cycle Electrics stator, and a Shindengen FH020AA voltage regulator from Roadstercycle.com. Jack is a great guy to deal with. My stock VR has some small cracks in the potting and with 25k miles on it, I don't want to take any chances. My stock connectors are in great shape. I upgraded the 77 connector when the upgrade came out, and sprayed all connectors with dielectric grease. My question is how many people with the Shindengen used the stock wiring and connectors, and didn't run new separate wires straight to the battery? I | ||
| Mark_weiss |
The stator is pretty easy to test: Is it grounded? It can be checked for output across the two terminals too, but grounding is much more likely. The voltage regulator is much more likely to be the issue. A Shindengen rectifier/regulator is a nice upgrade, is cost effective, and is pretty easy to install. The adaptor plate that Jack sells works perfectly, you will just need to source a pair of countersunk head mounting screws to attach the plate to the stock mounting bracket. Since the three phase setup does not produce much more power than the '08 and later single phase, I don't think that it is really worth the work. Well, unless you need to replace the stator anyway. | ||
| Steveford |
Can't answer that on a Buell but I hard wire the Super Mosfet kit from Roadstercycle and run right to the battery on my Triumph triples. | ||
| Motorfish |
I'm leaning towards running straight to the battery, as Jack suggests, I'm just not crazy about so many wires connected to the battery and adding to the under seat clutter. I'm going, and look into relocating the SAE plug used for my tender and electric vest. Have to poke around a bit. | ||
| Twisteduly |
Motorfish - for my 08xt I used the factory wiring and connectors - it is already a protected circuit and direct to the battery. I cant speak for the pre 08 3 phase set up, but with the history of the "77" melting and being the weak point it would make sense to bypass that and go direct imho | ||
| Ratbuell |
Factory wiring on my 06 with the FH020AA, working perfectly. Heated suit, heated grips, GPS, 35W aux lights, HID low beam, LED high beam, LED brakelight in topcase with a flasher module. | ||
| Motorfish |
Thanks for the responses. I have everything apart and hope to put it all together in the next few days. I need to find a piece of 1/8" aluminum to mount the VR, but I have everything else. The new stator came with the ends crimped on to reuse the factory connector, so I'm going to use that. I'm thinking of running the output wires straight to the battery though, as it doesn't look difficult, and would eliminate another connector. I'll try and post Picts of the end result and my toasted stator. | ||
| Save_ferris |
OK. Mounted and wired the Shindengen FH020AA voltage regulator from Roadstercycle.com. I went straight to the battery as Jack instructs. Now, When I turn the key, the gauges sweep. When I turn on the kill switch the pump spools up. When I hit the starter, everything goes dead, then resets and the gauges sweep again. If I try a second time, it stays dead for an hour or so. Swapping relays around changes nothing. No fuses blown, and the circuit breaker from roadstercycle is still closed. I had to leave it like that to go to dinner, then work. I will troubleshoot it further in the morning. Ideas? | ||
| Tootal |
If you haven't tried the starter relay you might try that. Everything should go dead when the starter is engaged so all the power is going there. Does the starter even try to turn over? Might be a starter problem. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
That sounds a lot like a loose battery (or ground) connection. | ||
| Save_ferris |
Battery is tight. Found the starter relay pulled out prevents the start switch from wiping out the power. .6 ohms to ground on the green wire going to the starter seems awful low, even for a solenoid coil. Out of time for today. More to follow. | ||
| Arry |
Is the battery good? | ||
| Save_ferris |
It was the battery. Fluke said 13.5 volts, but it failed the load test. I'm guessing it went out with the voltage regulator and attendant limp home. Thank you to Reep and Akbuell for their info in the Knowledge Vault under "Starting Problem". It's awesome to have a resource like this forum. | ||
| Ourdee |
YAY!!! IT'S ALIVE! | ||
| Dan_m |
Apart from Cycle Electrics stator, is there any other aftermarket stator manufacturer for these bikes? On Rick's Motorsport i only see listed a rebuilt operation for the stator, only for 2008+ bikes. | ||
| Save_ferris |
@ Dan_m Try Jack at Roadstercycle.com | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
Jack recommends the cycle electric unit (6014) (Message edited by cupcake_mike on July 31, 2017) | ||
| Ratbuell |
I presume you added a voltage meter / gauge of some sort as part of this (or any electrical) repair? Just sayin'...but every one of my bikes has a voltmeter of some sort on the bars so I can "see it coming" when the system is about to fail. | ||
| Dan_m |
Thanks for replies! Because i have some plans for a trip with this bike in the next week i am forced to search for alternative here in Europe. So i think i will go for a 2009 HD Sportster stator (I understood that the only difference compared with 2008+ xb12 is the wire length). @Ratbuell: a voltmeter is something that i have to add also. In my case, the charging system failure triggered the CEL code 16. But 100km after the battery was drained. | ||
| Ourdee |
https://gammatronixltd.com/ I like their single multi color LED ones. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I have one of those. I went with the multi-program version. I chose that one because it allows me to have the LED not illuminate when the system is operating correctly. If the light is on, it needs attention, if the light is off, all is well. | ||
| Ourdee |
I also use the programmable one. But I chose option #1. I like knowing the voltage it's at. The choices on such a small light is amazing. | ||
| Dan_m |
Yesterday i replaced the stator so maybe this information will help others with +2008 Ulysses: the stator CE-0732 from Cycle Electrics (which is listed for 2007-2013 HD Sportster) is a direct fit on these bikes. The only difference is that the wire is a little longer. I also look for some advice here, because i am pretty sure i over torqued the mainshaft nut from the clutch basket. The reason i did this is because up to yesterday i didn't knew that my torque wrench is useless for left-hand threads. So what do you think? Is that any possibility that the over torqued nut may damage the clutch basket? I should i not worry and go ride? Thank you! |
