| Author | Message | ||
     Nobuell |
My 1125R race bike blew the water pump seal on Sunday after returning to the paddock. Water was streaming out of the pump weep hole. It is a brand new motor that I purchased from EBR and only has a few races. My thought is the rotary seal degraded from sitting for 8 years. Anyway, I will be installing a new set of seals. The manual is a bit vague regrading removal of the old seals. Once I open it I will figure that out. Does any body have a quick method to find TDC of the front cylinder with the motor in place? I know there is a method from the stator side. I have not worked on the pump before. Any tips or experience will be helpful. | ||
| Willmrx |
I believe you have to either, remove the swing arm or rotate the engine, to be able to remove the rear exhaust pipe, so you can remove the right side case. Once you remove the side cover, you will see timing marks on the crankshaft drive gear and on the bottom balancer gear. When they are aligned the front cylinder is at TDC. Before you remover the water pump drive shaft from the seal, measure how much of the shaft is sticking out from the seal.  | ||
| Nobuell |
Thank you for the info on the gear alignment. That will help. I do not believe that I need to rotate the motor. I have the Factory exhaust. The header does not cover the clutch housing. I will just need to remove the lower muffler section. | ||
| Nobuell |
With the factory race exhaust, no motor rotation was required. The seals are replaced. I have a ram air cooling system with no fan so I was able to run the motor up to around 220 deg F to verify the seal was holding. We will see what happens this weekend at Road America with CCS. Just to be safe, I think that I will pull the clutch cover off of my old spare motor to have at the track. |
