| Author | Message | ||
     S1owner |
So I have a thought to solve bubbling paint How many people or what do you think would be the interest in abs formed covers that you could have wrapped or painted. I do not have a need but would be willing to possibly set a machine up and make some. I would need a couple scrap tanks to use for molds also | ||
| Ocbueller |
Possibly the only permanent solution to the bubbling issue. Had it on my S1 and seeing signs of it on my S3T. No one has shown a definitive cure. What do you estimate the cost of an abs cover? Would be a great option over an aluminum tank or a ruined paint job. Thanks, SteveH | ||
| S1owner |
Not sure on costs yet i would first need to figure out the size and thickness of the sheet needed per tank. The actual cost for labor would be minimal. Making a table heater and molds is the cost but if say a S1, M2, and S3 tank are donated the table should not cost much but making the heater/oven will be the cost but if I can find some space heaters etc to canibalize? | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Ive had thoughts of trying to make a fiberglass cover someday. That carbon one I've seen on here is super nice, but I'm sure over my skill level. ABS would definitely be a nice option for people. You planning on making it so the edges just wrap around the tank enough that it just kinda pops into place and holdsitself? | ||
| Ratbuell |
My S1W's recall tank is starting to bubble...I'll be watching this thread. | ||
| Dave |
Speaking of fiberglass ... Keep in mind that S2s use fiberglass tank covers and other body parts and are notorious for bubbling paint all over (S2 Pocks). Note: I don't know about the process then or much of anything paint but I suspect the Buell fiberglass is still chemically active but it doesn't explain the other Buells with just bubbling tanks. DAve (Message edited by DAve on June 18, 2017) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Soon as I hit "send" I thought of this. I recently bought a dash skin for my '01 Dodge pickup. Extremely thin molded plastic, held on with clear RTV silicone that they send with the skin. I've been very happy with it. Perhaps something for the tubers that utilizes both a molded flange that goes under the filler ring and is held in with its bolts (also eliminating a "seam" at the filler cap), and a slight rolled edge that goes under the lower edges of the tank? Just far enough under to hide the seam that is the edge of the cap? | ||
| S1owner |
I had another thought that there could beca way to put it under the gas cap ring and then use some silicone or something at the bottom edges first few would be trial and error | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
I just had my S2 bodywork painted. I think the fiberglass should be done gassing after 20 years lol. I think it was a result of production schedules and not allowing enough time for the fiberglass to finish gassing. However long that takes for different formulas. I don't have bubbles on my S1 or S3 yet... but would be interested in painted abs if it ever does. (Message edited by Williamscottrobertson on June 18, 2017) | ||
| Mnscrounger |
I grabbed an ugly tuber tank from KMBUELL when he was cleaning out, for the purpose of using it as a form to do a CF overlay. Then I got to thinking "Could I do one in sheet aluminum, or vacuum form metallized ABS sheet over it so it looks like an aluminum tank?" at the factory liquidation I looked over the Manta plug they had on the shelf too but decided to pass. If I make a return trip It'll be in a truck on the off chance prices will be more appropriate to my budget. | ||
| S1owner |
Not sure a plug would do much good as it would form to the same size as normal | ||
| Loose1 |
I was going to do this too, but I no longer work where I have access to vac forming equipment. I'm sure you already know this but you can't just form over a gas tank. There is a shrink rate, depending on what plastic your using. I have two tanks I was going to turn into molds. I was going to attach standoffs to the tank, the height of the shrink rate, then skim bondo over it and sand down to the stand offs. That's the easy part. Then I have build a trim fixture. | ||
| S1owner |
Yes theres alot that goes into it Thats why there would need to be considerable interest. I am going to make a table and such still just because I want to experiment in making it and using it. | ||
| Knuckleduster271 |
i have an old ugly tank you can have. No gas cap though- pm me your shipping info and ill get it on its way to you. | ||
| Knuckleduster271 |
definantly interested- | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Is the majority of interest leaning toward a vacuum formed ABS cover? It also sounds like most of the desire is for a manta style tank. If its just an overlay held on at the filler ring, wouldn't there be enough flex in an overlay to open at the bottom as the tank expands? Has anyone already done the math on expansion? | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I'd be worried about an overlay that's only held on by the filler ring. If someone tried to stand the bike up with a hand on the tank and put too much pressure on it, or a passenger who had their hands on the tank during braking, I'd be worried that any sideways force would crack the cover where it bolts on. If it was bolted under the filler cap, I'd think at the very least it should also fit under the rear pinch bolt at the back of the tank. If it's not going under the filler cap, I'd think curving under the edges of the tank for a snug fit, with some double sided/Velcro in a few places to secure it would be fine, knowing it'd have a little room to wiggle without anything breaking. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Curving under the edges is what I was thinking. I like the idea of using the rear bolt to hold it all down too. | ||
| Loose1 |
If you curve it under it wont be able to be vac formed without a very complex mold. | ||
| S1owner |
X1 does not curve under? I would think gas cap, rear bolt, and some kind of velcro or strap that secures to the frame or under the tank to the other side. Would all be part if the hard work trial and error | ||
| Tbolt98 |
I would be interested in an S3 cover if this develops. | ||
| Ratbuell |
A curve would help hide the bottom edge of the cover. Hold it in place with the front tab that goes under the frame bar; the filler ring; and the rear bolt. You should be able to get a lower curve by standing the tank (or whatever molding piece is used) up off the vacuum table a few inches; the vacuum mold part would (I'd think) naturally curve under a bit like an hourglass, with no material in there to stop it. | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Rat I think a tab under the front frame bar might be a bit much. If its held in place by the filler ring, and at the rear of the tank by the bolt, I think the rest needs to float for expansion. If it wraps the tank on the sides, but has a curve to wrap under, it allows flex to account for tank expansion. If we lock it in too many places it will bind or crack. | ||
| Loose1 |
The blast just uses the dip stick at the front and one bolt in the back. |
