| Author | Message | ||
     Hangetsu |
Quick dumb question: When removing the rear wheel, does the swingarm have to be supported by a Bulldog type stand, or can the whole rear simply be lifted by a jack under the muffler? | ||
| Tootal |
Put the jack near the rear of the muffler and jack it with the kick stand down. It will raise the rear. | ||
| Froggy |
I do it with a swingarm stand, but the muffler jacking points work too | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Swing arm stand works but be careful. The little tab under the swing arm that keeps the pads from sliding aren't that big and it doesn't take much to have the bike slide backwards a few inches. | ||
| Ourdee |
I stack wood under the rear of my muffler while leaning the bike onto the kick stand. | ||
| Hangetsu |
Thanks all of you for some good tips. I need to change my rear brake rotor, so I was curious as to that the best way to remove the wheel might be. DUmb question #2 - Does one need to remove the idler pulley for this procedure, or can the belt be slipped on & off leaving it in place. Cheers! A- | ||
| Steveford |
Leave it in place. Uneeda shop manual and use the torque specs. | ||
| Froggy |
If you have the right swingarm stands, sliding isn't a problem. The PitBull stands I got from American Sport Bike some years ago support the swingarm from the bottom and the rear.  Don't worry about the idler pulley, it doesn't need to be removed. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Whoa Froggy, is that Puzzled's bike on the right? I use the wood block method under the muffler as well. Used scrap wood so it didn't cost a penny and is still readily available. Of course, if you have bags, you could find a nice grassy slope and lay it right over, no extra tools required. | ||
| Froggy |
Left bike is my 09 1125CR, right bike is my 06 XB "Platypus" that is a hot mess of parts from mismatched Buells. 1125R forks, Uly tail, CityX plastics, STT handle bars, because why not?  | ||
| Teeps |
I use the motorcycle floor jack I had gotten for lifting my VTX1300. I made a muffler cradle from this: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/cradle-92346-448571.pdf and set in the floor jack rails. I lift the whole bike and do both wheels at the same time. Once in the air, I use 4 tiedowns to triangulate the bike from the garage cross braces to keep "it" from rolling off to one side or the other. | ||
| Hangetsu |
Very Nice Bulldog setup. Do you know if that's still available - obviously not from American Sport Bike, but perhaps Bulldog? I'm going to have to research that one. Teeps, I have head of people ding this, but isn't the bike still pretty tippy being supported by such a narrow, rounded surface? | ||
| Froggy |
https://www.pit-bull.com/makes-and-models/buell-mo torcycles/buell-ebr-1125r?product_id=1012 That's the one I have. I would go with the extended handle option, which wasn't available when I purchased mine. I assume it gives more leverage. | ||
| Teeps |
Hangetsu Posted on Sunday, June 04, 2017 - Teeps, I have head of people ding this, but isn't the bike still pretty tippy being supported by such a narrow, rounded surface? Yes it is pretty "tippy." That's why I use tie down straps to prevent the bike from rotating on the rounded surface. I've considered gluing rubber strips on the wooden cradle; but in 10 years haven't gotten that far... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I use a "quality" engine hoist from Harbor Freight. In my old garage, I used to just use a come-along with two ratchet straps up to the beams. The new garage is too fancy. Plaster on ceiling?! |
