| Author | Message | ||
     X1bully |
So I got a buzzy feedback from my bike. (Off topic I got my race can apart and it had half packing not 1/4 like I thought, still need to buy a riviter, been a few month weekend project, lol!) I look around the bike, I see the front engine mount is awe fully close to the head on the left side if not touching.. is it supposed to be like this?? Maybe you guys can see the hairline crack or blemish on the mount in the second pic.. I did pull a bolt out when installing the Updated L bracking hanger for the exhaust header. I wonder if this did something or is off? It rides about the same just more buzzy when slowing down.. Plus looks like a light crack line in the cast part. I've seen this part replaced with a billet one but want to know if it's supposed to be like this in the pic nearly or is touching.   | ||
| Phelan |
They are naturally quite close, but I believe that kind of contact happens when the front isolator is on the way out. | ||
| X1bully |
Thanks Phelan! I was looking at the nrhs billet front mount.. Read there is a updated version of the isolater , my bike is a 2000 so I think I have the old version. I'll take a pic of the isolater. The rubber does have some cracks around it. Don't think I'm confident enough to change the isolater myself right now. The front mount maybe, since I read it can be installed just as it sits. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Put a board under the motor, (under the block, not under the muffler or shock) then jack up a bottle jack or what ever under it to support it. You may be able to swap the front isolator without moving the fuel tank, but if not, all you have to do is shift it out of the way, then it's the two bolts on the top and one that passes through into the front mount. It's been a few years since I did mine, but it's not bad at all. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Did you pull one of the two mounting bolts from the head and later put it back? They are one time use bolts for kind of safety reasons. Also could you take a picture from the front side of the mount ,looking at the bolt heads? It looks like the left bolt is loose. there is a gap between the mount and head. (that is also the side that is touching the rocker cover) | ||
| Ratbuell |
+1. The mount bolts to the head and should not move relative to the head. Either a bolt is loose or it's broken. | ||
| 651lance |
The bolts that hold the front engine mount to the head per the service manual are a one time use. Also the washer that silts under that bolt is a hardened washer and if a person replaces it with a standard wash it will crush over time loosing the clamping toque of the bolt. This will loosen the bracket and the bracket will contact the rocker box. Running with the bolts loose will either break the bolts off or break off the head mount casting. | ||
| X1bully |
Here are some pics, the rubber doesn't have cracks but it does look kinda old.     | ||
| Hootowl |
That is the old style isolator. Probably wouldn't hurt to swap it out. | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
Can someone post what the new style looks like? maybe a link to get one as well? I think mine is about done as well. | ||
| Ratbuell |
There is no rubber between the bracket and the head. Any gap or play between mount and head indicates a failed or failing bolt. The rubber has zero effect on this whatsoever. Doesn't mean you can't replace the isolator...but the rubber being older isn't the reason the mount doesn't sit flush to the head. You have other problems to fix first. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Mikethediabetic ,see over here http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/770563.html?1443314480 https://sphdonline.com/collections/m2-cyclone-mode ls/products/l0505-9-l0504-9-l1501-8-buell-tube-fra me-front-rear-motor-mount-set-kit | ||
| Hootowl |
"Doesn't mean you can't replace the isolator...but the rubber being older isn't the reason the mount doesn't sit flush to the head." Concur. Apologies if I gave the impression that the new isolator would solve your problem. | ||
| X1bully |
There are no gaps looking at front bracket and head. I didn't touch those at all. How about someone take a pic of the same spot or how much distance should there be on the left side of the bracket? So I can get an idea of how much it's off. | ||
| Hootowl |
Crappy pic, sorry. Best I could take given the lighting. There's about 1/16th of an inch of clearance.  | ||
| Sportyeric |
I have about 10 or 15 thou clearance at the area you are concerned about. I have a vague recollection that I may have even filed away a bit of the mount or the rockerbox to increase the clearance. The top and middle sections of the rocker box have a bit of wiggle-room in their fitment, I believe, due to the difference between the size of the bolts and the size of the holes they go through. There is no other aligning pin or anything. So you could loosen the four bolts at the top and slide the two sections back a hair, theoretically. | ||
| Firemanjim |
I have had to file that area on a number of tubers over the years to remove,or put on the those covers. | ||
| Hootowl |
"So you could loosen the four bolts at the top and slide the two sections back a hair, theoretically." That's a good idea. But I'm struggling to understand how two parts, that don't (or aren't supposed to ) move with respect to each other, can cause a "buzzy feedback", I assume, through the bars. How do your rear isolators look? | ||
| X1bully |
Yeah that buzz could be coming from my exhaust, the back cap of the canister is only being held on by like 4 rivits it was popping them out since it is empty. Hopefully when I put my repacked one on it solves the buzz and that's all it is. But I think I remember the buzz though the bars as I slow down and not just noise. Haven't rode it in a month. I'll take a pic of the rear isolaters tomorrow. | ||
| X1bully |
Whoa!!!!!!!!! Right rear mount is not in the right spot. How to fix this or what is wrong? I might have it towed to the dealer to fix.. Good thing you guys said to look there! Left side looks like it's in the right spot.  | ||
| X1bully |
The only times I had my bike worked on was, One dealer replaced my drive belt. Another dealer put the rear tire on for me And to a welder who lifted the whole bike with straps around be the handlebars and around the frame, so he could sit and tig the header at a even level. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
oh geez. I haven't replaced my isolators yet to know how easily things move in there, but I wonder if you couldn't just put jacks under the footpegs, loosen a couple bolts, and have that isolator pop back down. I know they have some kind of metal pin that's supposed to keep them from sliding though, so it might not be that simple. Looks like it's probably your time to just replace them with all new isolators while you're in there. | ||
| Blks1l |
Never worked on an X1, but with the removable side plate, that should be a fairly easy issue. | ||
| Hootowl |
If that's the right isolator, it's possible that the last time the belt was changed, they didn't put the frame section back on correctly, because the isolator does not look torn, it looks like it wasn't installed correctly. That said, that appears to be the old style isolator, and could probably stand to be upgraded. Lance carries them. https://sphdonline.com/collections/s3-thunderbolt- models/products/l0505-9-l0504-9-genuine-buell-rear -motor-mount-set-for-most-tube-frames-kit Or you can get the front and rear for not much more. https://sphdonline.com/collections/s3-thunderbolt- models/products/l0505-9-l0504-9-l1501-8-buell-tube -frame-front-rear-motor-mount-set-kit | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I forgot we were talking about an X1, that should definitely be easy to pull that plate off and take a look. I still say it's worth just replacing them all together if you've got the cash though. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Probably the small locating pin did torn through the isolator. Have seen that before! | ||
| Hootowl |
The pin keeps it from rotating. It couldn't have caused the condition in the photo above. It looks like the frame has spread, and spit the isolator out of the pocket, but the frame can't really spread there (not that much, anyway) so I'm still betting on improper installation of the frame section. | ||
| M2x2 |
Having replaced the front and rear isolators on 3 M2s all that is needed is a small bottle jack to support the motor and a ratchet strap to lift the rear of the frame, and a few common hand tools. It is a fairly straight forward procedure though somewhat finicky. Take your time hand start all the bolts. This needs to be done and you are the person who cares that it is done right. Best of luck | ||
| X1bully |
Damn frame spread? Hopefully not. Thanks for the link for the isolators. I'll pick up a set later. I need to finish the exhaust install. Man I was looking forward to riding it after to. Plus I haven't installed my led headlight yet.. I see how the panels can come off. Anyone have a pic of what it looks like with that panel off? | ||
| Hootowl |
I do not, sorry, but I'll bet you a dollar that if you take it off you'll be able to put it back on with the isolator seated properly. |
