| Author | Message | ||
     Muli |
Replaced the fuel the other day and its still blowing a fuse. Disconnect the pump harness and no such issues. ive checked the brown/yellow cable to the two pins on the multimeter and both pins beep. Plugged into the ecu and ignition on i get power as well. Tried grounding the wire from the pump to see if it would run continuosly but no luck. With the new pump in and no luck i decided to plug the old directly to a battery and it spun to life. FML Obviously my only option is to pull the new pump out and test the existing fuel pump assembly harness which i should of done in the first place. i saw some threads about the wiring failing inside the epoxy part which got me thinking that the other two are for the fuel tank level sensor right? My fuel light appears to work as it comes on if i drain the fuel and dissapears eventually when filled enough. Could these two wires be swapped around to the pump changed around at the plug end if one of the wires is damaged inside the epoxy. who needs a fuel light anyway right? | ||
| Panshovevo |
The red wire on the upside of the connector that leads to the fuel pump is normally hot all the time. The ECU grounds the pump as necessary to provide pressure according to requirements. The black wire leads to the ECU, and provides the ground for the pump. I'm not at the shop, and can't remember the harness color coding on the pump side of the connector, but will take a look after dinner, in the hope of providing a better educated answer to your question. | ||
| Simplymichaeljr |
Check for chafed wires inside the frame or the connection to the fuse box itself. But, it may be a case of double checking your work since you didn't say it was blowing fuses beforehand--or was it? If it was, then I would guess it's a chafed wire or bad connection. (Message edited by simplymichaeljr on April 06, 2017) (Message edited by simplymichaeljr on April 06, 2017) | ||
| Muli |
Ended up being the actual wires shorted inside the epoxy. Testing with a multi-meter the two wires powering the pump made the meter beep with the meter on +/- Ended up cutting off the 4 wire plug and replaced with it a 2 wire plug. Bikes running atm using the 2 wires meant for the fuel light. Another problem appears that the fuel hose has frailed that attaches to the base of the pump from the pump being removed few times so its developed a small leak. Looking at pictures online and parts catalogue i assume this hose doesnt come with a whole new pump assembly? Is it available as a spare part? (Message edited by Muli on April 29, 2017) | ||
| 651lance |
The fuel line is sold separate | ||
| Muli |
Looking here its included in the picture https://sphdonline.com/collections/1125r-1125cr-mo dels/products/buell-oem-fuel-pump-2008-2010-1125r- 1125cr-b4d but looking at one sold locally its not included in the photo https://www.srwmoto.com.au/product/2187-genuine-fu el-pump-for-xb-and-1125 twinmotorcycles parts diagram doesnt list but it shows it part of the pump assembly. http://i.imgur.com/2ieEhRW.jpg | ||
| 651lance |
Sorry, I was thinking XB. | ||
| Duanelr |
All this talk of fuel pumps; mine is making new unusual noises too. Is it true, does the swing arm need to come off? Sub frame, maybe? Oh god, it's going to be close to $300. | ||
| Muli |
I tried by removing the RHS rearset including rear brake setup/unbolting the shock/brake lines off the swingarm but the 90 degree angled circlip pliers werent upto the task to remove the circlip holding the pump in its place. The swingarm might get another inch or two of movement IF you removed some of the belt related gear/LHS rearset but dont quote me on that. Also unsure if the pump would actually clear the swingarm to come out even then. The swingarm removal is pretty easy, i think it took me 15-20 mins once i had the bike in the air and supported. Getting that damn circlip off was the hardest part well maybe putting it back on to secure the pump was worse. Felt like the pliers were going to snap a few times. I bought a supposed japanese fuel pump off ebay but the sock(filters) supplied with them dont work nor look anything like the factory ones. Sor | ||
| Panshovevo |
Hell, I changed the pump on my CR last year without dropping the swingarm, but tried doing it again this year on the R...couldn't do it, and I'll be damned if I could figure out why! It's not that big of a deal to drop the swingarm low enough to get the pump out, but I'm baffled as to why I had to on the R, but not the CR. |
