| Author | Message | ||
     Jasonblue |
I took mine apart the other day and discovered the brass nipple that holds the signal together. Obviously you have to shorten this piece when you remove the spacer. I figured the best solution would be to run a die down it and then cut it to the needed length. Ran to Lowes and they didn't have the die needed. (Small selection) I didn't have the time to run around to find what I needed, so I just put everything back together. Anyone know exactly what size die I'll need, or any other solutions. Looks to me like the nipple is 5/16, but it has really fine threads. | ||
| Rocketsprink |
Do yourself a favor. Pick up some aftermarket turn signals. Cost me about 35.00 for 4. Small, hardly notice them, just enough to be useful. Took about an hour to install and looks better than stock. | ||
| Dyna |
Why couldnt you just run the nut down & then cut it off? The metal is soft enough & so long as you dont butcher the threads too badly the nut will clean the threads up pretty decently. I have done it that way a few times in a pinch & it has worked fine. | ||
| Black9 |
Not threaded all the way,but on another recent,"cheese grader delete", there is mention of the thread size, although you can pick up shorter ones (rears) at the dealer for about 10.00 pr. | ||
| Trenchtractor |
I bought a pair of bolts... I think 8mm x 1.25 pitch from memory?? Anyway, cost me a coulpe of cents, wacked em into the bench drill and run a hole down the centre, then cut the head off and installed them in place of the ctock ones... Took something like half hour to do the whole job. Cost stuff all. Take the current ones to your local bolt supplier and they will be able to provid you with the correct bolts. At least that way you don't butcher you OEM units. | ||
| Jasonblue |
All I am doing is taking out the spacer on the front turn signals. I don't want to buy aftermarket ones. I know a few of you have done this and can relate to what I am talking about. Dyna, at first I didn't quite know what you were talking about. Just came in from a night of celebration, but after reading your post again I get it. The thing is I would have to run the nut down about 3/8", maybe a little more. Seems like quite a bit for fine threads but it could be possible. I would still like to hear from people who have done this mod. Maybe when I sleep this one off tommorow I'll look in the knowledge vault. Nighty night......Jason | ||
| Yeahcmon |
It is an 8/100 metric die. Be very carefull not to pinch the bolt because it will crush easily. Put it horizontally in the vise and you'll get a better grip on it without crushing it. You can also find something solid to put in the bolt, like a large nail, and you can put it in the vise vertically without damaging it. Wouldn't recomend forcing the nut to make new threads, but, some people have their way and I have mine. | ||
| Johnnyxb9 |
JUST GO BUY 2 REAR TURN SIGNALS $5.20 A SIDE. CHEAP CHEAP | ||
| 2k4xb12 |
No -- even easier than that -- do what I did -- remove the signals and pull the spacers off the stems. Now, reinstall the signals and then the spacers on the inside! Problem solved, no trips to the store, no odd looking mix 'n match aftermarkets, nothin'... Steve. | ||
| Brickcop |
I just bought a set of rear turn signals for my XB-9S and put them on the front as a direct replacement, they work great,look great and only cost about $10. | ||
| Thepup |
I did the same as 2k,worked out great | ||
| Jasonblue |
Thanks for the info everyone, but I think 2K has the solution I'm lookin for. Right on! Man I love this site, see what 420 is missin out on! | ||
| 2k4xb12 |
Man I love this site, see what 420 is missin out on! Yeah, but I can't do one of those bitchin' wheelies...  | ||
| Airbox |
I cut the standard hollow bolts at the end of the thread. One is longer than the other, just. Cut the longer one. I then loctited the indicator into the thread leaving just enough to cover the thickness of the mounting point, the sprung washer and the nut. I have not had any problems, stayed nice and tight and cost nothing. It stops them wobbling up and down and looks much better | ||
| Airbox |
didn't think of what 2k did, but I seem to remember that it is quite a squeeze inside and loads of wires etc, which is why I cut the bolts | ||
| Cowtown |
Jason, I did just what you're suggesting. You need a 8mm x 1.0 pitch die. Fast, easy and cheap. Placing the spacer on the inside wont work on an X1, but sounds like a good solution. | ||
| Jasonblue |
Yeah Airbox it is a tight area, so I went ahead and removed the 9S mini fairing and head lights. Made it much easier to work on. | ||
| 420at145mph |
i aint missin **** and ive explaind the crappy wheelie more than enuff times | ||
| 2k4xb12 |
Due to requests for pics, here's the shortened signals on my 12S -- I did it by moving the spacers to the inside. You need to drop the headlight assembly to do it though (not hard, but the bottom bolt on mine was overtightened at assembly, and I couldn't budge it without fear of stripping the head out)    | ||
| Brucelee |
Lockhart Phillips has some very nice carbon fiber units for less than $40 for all four. |
