| Author | Message | ||
     Greg_the_greek |
So... Bought an 07 Uly with 4300 Miles on it two months ago. Its the newest vehicle I have ever owned (I drive an 88 Mustang GT Vert and previous bike was a 92 ZX6 ninja), so thought nothing can go wrong. As of right now the bike has 5600 miles + and I just got back from a 600+ mile road trip upstate new york. To get her to this point, Ive had to replace the kickstand bolts (broke the day I was supposed to go on the road trip), upgraded the clutch cable adjuster bracket and boot (broke after a week of ownership, and Ive upgraded it to the new style), my exhaust valve actuator broke basically on the ride home, which threw a code and I had no way of diagnosing because Harley wouldn't even hook up a cable to diagnose a CEL, so ended up using ECM spy myself, voltage regulator and 77 connector (learned how to crimp wires lol), and a bunch of headlights (before the 77 and VR upgrade, so its good now), Did the 5k service myself, and went up to the Adirondacks for a trip. Then on an icy road it...dropped (cough), only broke the right brake lever, and now I have one on order after ghetto fabbing one upstate after the...dropping. IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I NEED TO DO FOR THE LOVE OF BUELL?? My belt is also not flush with the wheel side of the sprocket, not sure if that is normal, so Its been a thought the whole time i am riding, and not leaving me at ease. Awesome bike though, super fun, and easy to work on (I'm learning). Hooyah Bad Weather Bikers!  | ||
| Steveford |
Get the ECM located as far away from the seat pan as possible. | ||
| Sagehawk |
Anywhere there is a ground wire, disconnect , clean any goop and paint off of where it mounts. Retighten. Under steering head there are three that are wired into one before ground. That's a problem area. Look in fuse box and see what's there . Buy spares and possibly at least a spare relay to keep with you. As far as belt goes, mine has never run off of the pulley. Even with edge yes. So, check those wheel bearing and idler pulley bearings. Make sure axle is seated as per the book and pinch bolt has proper torque as well. I'll end with the drain bolts . Don't follow manual on torque. It's just a drain bolt in aluminum. 10- 12 ft lbs is always good. Welcome to this world as you are allready riding with a large permagrin on your face. Thing is, these are a very mechanical machine and you'll constantly be checking it over and working on it. You'll find plenty of help here. Best wishes! Also, I carry a cheap multimeter with me. | ||
| Mnrider |
IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE I NEED TO DO FOR THE LOVE OF BUELL Don't ride on icy roads.  | ||
| Sagehawk |
Shoot, I thought falling down was part of the experience! | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
The belt not flush on the rear pulley is not really a issue ,there are lots more that have the same thing. For spare relays ,ford F57B-14B192-AA are working fine for the XB buells! Have a look here for parts and replacement alternatives, http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/790503.html?1490123650 | ||
| Ratbuell |
You've done the 77 already...add a voltmeter to keep an eye on things in case the 77 issues injured the VR. I had (have) a Kuryakyn voltmeter on my 06 and literally SAW my 77 failing on a trip one night. Fixed it the next day, by replacing it with submersible well splice connections (there's a thread here somewhere about it; this was possibly 7 or 8 years ago). About 3 years ago, I noticed some fluctuations in my V readings...and it was the VR letting go. Again - the gauge let me SEE it happening and I was able to fix it before any other issues (like a fried stator, or a mid-trip dead bike) came up. (I installed a Shindengen MOSFET regulator; also in a thread here somewhere). Think about a '10 rear wheel with the third bearing. Belt tracking is no issue IMO. Keep an eye on it and if it never changes...but buy a new belt, install it, and keep the used one you took off as a spare in case you need to replace it mid-trip (a stretched/broken in belt is easier to install roadside). Welcome to the madness! Good news is, you've already covered most of the issues these bikes can have. The only sucky part is...you did it on such a compressed schedule. Now go get some miles on that thing and catch up to the rest of us! | ||
| Greg_the_greek |
Thanks everybody. Whats the issue with the ECM location? Haven't heard much about that being an issue. Weirdly enough, I replaced the 77 connector with the deutche upgraded one, even though the old connector looked fine, and it turned out the VR was messed up before the connector burned at all (my voltmeter was bulbs blowing out left and right lol). Either way they are both replaced and working great now. Def no more Ice riding haha, maybe just dirt. Next project is getting that exhaust off and figuring out how to preserve it (sand and paint?) its rusting quick and I sadly have lost the urge for a loud aftermarket pipe. | ||
| Ourdee |
The low seat will press on the plugs to the ecm in the stock location breaking the solder inside. | ||
| Arry |
The seat can contact and press down on the ECM connectors, which can cause internal (ECM) problems. Most folks relocate the ECM, I just added additional support to keep the seat from pressing down. On the belt tracking, I would at least check the wheel bearings, to make sure they're OK. Exhaust, yes, sand and paint. repeat as necessary... When you've got the exhaust off, get a little lube in the valve pivot, and lube the cable. Also, a good time to check the kickstand bolts (that you replaced). They suggest replacing the straps, every time you take it off, but I've had good luck reusing them. Don't over torque them. The torque spec's in the service manual are too high, in my opinion. Same with lots of other torque spec's, in the manual. | ||
| Greg_the_greek |
Thanks everyone, will definitely check out the ECM and Seat issue, id rather do what Arry did than relocate it, any pics of what support you did for the seat? Sorry to be a pain lol. | ||
| Rcf2 |
change rear wheel bearings every change of tire. they don't last long but are cheap, consider them as regular maintenance. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Do NOT do that. That will wear out the center of the wheel. Bearings are not meant to be replaced every 3000 miles. Pressing them in and out will ruin the wheel. Faster than you'll wear out a set of bearings in normal use. Don't poke them with a stick. Don't peel the seals and pack them with grease. Don't pressure wash the motorcycle. Just...ride the damn thing, and if something wears out...THEN replace it. My 06 went 25k miles on the OEM bearings. Lots of dirt, lots of rain, lots of water, lots of highway speed stuff, lots of loaded / 2-up trips. Never picked a seal, never injected grease, never did any of that goofy shit. Torqued the axle by hand whenever I got a new tire, and that's all. Bearings are still just fine...but I changed to a '10 wheel before they became unobtanium. | ||
| Arry |
Greg, I can't post a picture, but most Uly ECM's have a plastic spacer block, on the forward mounting bolt (I think after '06?). I just added an additional spacer on the other side (rearward) of the ECM. This additional spacer needs to be shorter, because of the shape of the seat pan. My ECM went bad after I did this, but I'm guessing it was because of some contact before I added the second spacer. Search on ECM relocate or seat support... Lot's of different approaches. More than one way to skin a cat.. | ||
| Gunnybe |
Here is what I have done on my 08 :     |
