| Author | Message | ||
     Waveguides |
Started the ol' (59k, original owner) friend up Sunday and it was louder than usual. I felt exhaust pressure on my right leg. Both headers had sheared off at the flange between the clamp and head, and one at the collector Y. I'm told they're unobtainium. Any resources or suggestions? Can they be welded? Aftermarket resource? Thank You! Mark | ||
| Blks1l |
They can be repaired, I think they should still be fairly easy to find also. I assume it has the 2 1/2 inch outlet? | ||
| 1313 |
I assume it has the 2 1/2 inch outlet? Correct! Only used on the (US/DOM versions of) 1998 S1W, 1998 S3 and 1998 S3T. I bought one of the last NOS ones American Sport Bike had before they closed (wish I would've bought the other they had at the time...) to replace the semi polished one on my '98 S3T Defender (when I get to that point). They are out there, just a little difficult to find. Now if I could just find a decent OE muffler for my 1998 S3T Defender... Waveguides, Whereabouts in NC are you? I'm presuming in/around/near Wilmington. I'm about 90 minutes from Wilmington... | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
http://www.aph-performance-engineering.com/tube_fr ame_models.html http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp? mc=1&guid=YXHFSC&aid=10605&cid=144&s=&a=&aname=Bue ll_S3_OEM_header_97-98_25_inch_collector And i thought that Dean was working on some headers for the tubers to! http://ecommerce.deanadamsdesigns.com/ | ||
| Oopezoo |
Its a shame its such a PITA with the exhausts on the tubers. I'm stuck in the situation where my S1 was constantly breaking the exhaust at different mounting points. When I bought it, it had a VERY poorly mounted stock 2" header and a Borla carbon fiber muffler on it. I've remounted it twice and it just basically slaps me in the face after another 1k miles. I have since been slowly working through the usual suspects, but the time and effort I've put into it has been very discouraging. I keep trying to use what I have without breaking the bank. If I was going to spend money, I would rather spend it on a 2.5" system. I just can't swallow how stupid expensive they are. So I'm back to trying to patch my 2" system back together. Hopefully I can get it through a whole riding season this year. | ||
| Waveguides |
I have the original muffler in excellent condition, unmolested. Don't see a need for it. I've got a Daytona Boss on the S3T, which has been a bit#* to keep hanging. They're unobtanium as well...Went to the Hardly Driveable shop today and confirmed header was OBSOLETE. The shop here is top notch by the way. Spoke with a local exhaust fabricator who is willing to re-attach the flanges/repair the old header - that requires TIG welding. Am in Wilmywood, good guess. Fun Fact: Erik Buell worked on my Sapuki T200 whilst at Allegheny Cycle Center in Gibsonia PA in the early 70's. Been following his exploits since. Great Guy!! Still have the Sapuki too... Mark  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Tighten header fasteners like the exhaust gas flows. Hang everything loose. Tighten the head flange bolts first. Then the front hangar bolts. Then the muffler clamp. Then the muffler forward hangar. Then the rear hangar. Keeps things from bunching up and breaking from being twisted/bunched. If you get to a fastener and it won't line up...loosen everything, give it all a good wiggle, and start over. Don't force anything. | ||
| Oopezoo |
Thats easy when you are using factory parts and everything lines up.......not so easy when you have an old aftermarket muffler that has had both of its original mounting tabs ripped off and you are starting from scratch to make your own hangers with generic off the shelf P clamps and straps. Thought for sure I had it this last time after installing the newer front Y mount and really taking my time. It still cracked the P-clamps in about 1k miles. Now, I'm replacing all of the motor isolators with the hopes of knocking down some of the vibrations. Then I'll try it again. In the meantime, I'm keeping my eyes open for a complete 2.5" system that doesn't cost more than I paid for the rest of the bike. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Another reason all my buells have factory exhausts on them. Granted, race kits on the s1w and m2...but still factory made. | ||
| Jim2 |
The Y-hanger (updated front mount) should be nice and tight. If it is a little loose it will allow the header to vibrate at a very damaging frequency. The rubber in the Y-hanger will do the damping but only if the bolt/spacer assembly is nice and tight. I don't know how your aftermarket can fits up with the new Y-hanger but it should be like the OEM can fits up to it. If not that might be your problem. I've had mine loosen up before. Now I have slightly longer bolt and have it double nut'ed to keep it from loosening over time. I think it gets hot enough to soften locktite. | ||
| Ratbuell |
A schmear of copper RTV exhaust gasket paste on the muffler inlet joint doesn't hurt either. Damps vibrations if the parts loosen a bit. Don't take this the wrong way, but...PAINT YOUR NUTS. Put a dab of some bright colored touchup paint on your fasteners when you tighten them up. Quick pre-flight check - marks line up? Go ride. Marks don't line up? Torque it and re-mark it before something breaks. | ||
| Oopezoo |
I'm still in the middle of reassembling things from replacing the motor/frame isolators. Once I get far enough along to remount the exhaust I will start a new thread and throw up some pictures to show exactly what I'm working with. |
