| Author | Message | ||
     Mnrider |
 I filed out the tensioner a little.  I hope this one will last 20k like the first one. Got this belt from American Sport Bike right before they closed last summer and finally got around to putting it on.  Ready to roll when the weather warms a bit. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
How much did you file the hole? I did remove 1mm on my 12s and could turn the tensioner wheel by hand. | ||
| Mnrider |
The wheel still won't turn so I didn't remove much. Next I want to add some oil to the shock adjuster as I've seen some on here do. Can I just tip the bike on it's side? | ||
| Dr_greg |
The original belt on my '06 Uly lasted for 49,000 miles. If I hadn't tipped over (with resulting full swingarm extension, snapping the belt) I'll bet it would've lasted far longer. Excellent final drive solution. And yes, I ride like an old lady. But I ride a lot, fractures permitting. --Doc | ||
| Ruans187 |
MN rider, I'm going through new belt installation and has turned into a nightmare. That thing won't go in for nothing. Did u remove the axle nut al the way to push tire forward some? My belt reference is 500.#$&F instead of E as my previous one. | ||
| 651lance |
The axle needs to be pulled and the idler needs to be removed. The belt is a G0500.1AKF for the long swingarm bike. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Yes, the axle does need to be removed, but no, I have never needed to remove the idler. Yes, a brand new belt will be a very tight fit but it will quickly loosen to correct tension as the surface coating on the teeth of the belt compresses. Be sure to re-fit the swingarm bridge before you put the belt under tension. (Message edited by Mark_weiss on March 07, 2017) | ||
| Froggy |
Axle doesn't need to be totally removed, if you undo it 30 turns, it will allow you to shift the wheel forward a little so you can slide the belt on. I've done it on the side of the road no problem. Brand new belts are very tight and will be harder to install. | ||
| Arry |
The service manual say to remove the idler, but that makes a problem getting the idler back on with the belt in place. So, leave the idler on, axle backed out (manual says 15 turns, froggy says 30),get the belt on the front sprocket and in place on the idler, start the belt on the bottom of the rear sprocket, then slowly and carefully rotate the wheel forward until it is in place on the rear sprocket. If that's not working, maybe you got the wrong belt. I've heard of that happening before. | ||
| Froggy |
Yea now that I think about it, I believe 30 turns removes the axle entirely, so don't do that, it was likely 20 turns then to get to the tapered part without having to remove the entire axle. | ||
| Mnrider |
Ruans I hope you got your belt on.I did not remove the axle just turned it out till the taper in the axle lets the wheel move forward.The trick is to start the new belt on the bottom of the rear pulley and turn the wheel.No need to remove the idler. | ||
| Skifastbadly |
I've had shit luck with belts and have had to replace 5 of them on the roadside. I can do it in 20 minutes and it doesn't involve the idler. As Mnrider states, the trick is to get the thing started and roll it on. |
