| Author | Message | ||
     Oopezoo |
I have a list of stuff I'm about to knock out on my '98 S1 and I'm just looking for some words of wisdom or "while you're at it, do this" type of things. I have all of my shop and parts manuals handy, so thats covered. Last winter was the Primary side upgrades, oil pump drive gear, and a few other odds/ends. This winter (even though it seems to be over already) this is what I'm up to 1. Replacing front motor mount 2. Replacing rear isolators 3. Swap to an aluminum swingarm W/mounting block 4. Swap out the stock long shock mount with a short one so I can install a used short Penske shock I picked up I already have the front chocked up and the rear suspended from the ceiling. I've read everything I could find on replacing the rear isolators. At this point, my thoughts were to remove the rear shock, unbolt the swingarm mounting block and drop the whole assembly while supporting the motor from below. If need be, I'll make up the Scott Free tool, I just wasn't sure if it was necessary if I was planning to drop the swingarm and mounting block anyway. Anyone see an issue with my thought process on that? Also.....the drive belt. The bike has about 16k miles on it. I'm assuming the belt is original. It looks fine from what I can tell, but I don't really know what to look for as this is my first belt drive bike. I always run it nice and loose, but have only owned it for about 2k miles and have no idea about previous ownership. Should I be replacing it while its apart? I can't imagine putting more than 2-3k miles a year on it for the next few years. If I should replace it, what fits best for an early tuber with a late tuber swingarm? Is the 128 tooth G0500.8 the way to go, or are guys running something different? | ||
| S1owner |
Pm me I can help you out rebuilt my S1 from the ground up with everything you are wanting to do | ||
| Oopezoo |
I shot you a PM......guessing you didn't get it? I think I've done enough reading to just tear into it. I'll give a yell if I hit a roadblock. I'm not on a time table to get it back together.......even though its supposed to be in the freakin 70's the next two days.......in February, in PA. Gonna have to start these winter projects a little earlier next time haha | ||
| S1owner |
Sorry resent it | ||
| Upthemaiden |
I'm right there with you. I've got some new isolators and a swingarm in a box in my garage, but I've gotta take advantage of this weather for a while before I'm willing to tear the bike apart to do the work. I'm in Pittsburgh and got to ride to work yesterday and today(although I think I'm probably gonna get wet on the way home today), and can hopefully continue the rest of the week. | ||
| Oopezoo |
My S1 has been out of commission since last summer. The big issue I've been chasing is really the exhaust mounting. It has a stock 2" header on it with a Borla carbon fiber pipe. It was poorly mounted when I bought the bike and immediately broke the •••••• brackets between the muffler mounting tabs and the bike. So I remounted it.....and it broke off the front mounting tab on the muffler. I ground off what was left on the muffler pipe and reinstalled it using a regular 2" exhaust hanger clamp. At the same time, I also upgraded the front mounting point on the bike to the upside down Y-version. Then it broke mounting tab on the rear of the muffler. So I tore it all back off ground off the rear tab and remounted the entire exhaust taking every precaution I could to get it right. It lasted about 1k miles and then broke both mounting clamps I had installed. At this point, I started looking elsewhere. That led me to the isolators. Thinking the are allowing too much flex and ripping things up. All 3 of mine "look" ok, but they are older versions and I have zero history on them or the bike for that matter. They very well might be originals. I'm hoping I can replace the isolators, remount the exhaust, and not have it tear itself apart again. If it doesn't work this time, I'm going to attempt to find a used 2.5" header and pair it up with something like a new Dean Adams can. Not being able to ride it because of stupid shit like this is getting discouraging. Thats what I get for buying a neglected beat up bike with no history. Hoping to get to the point where I can start doing some "fun" mods instead of just fixing shit. | ||
| S1owner |
I will say this there is a trick to properly mounting and tightening the exhaust system . Everything gets attached loose fitted and in pkace the things are tightened in order. I will send over buellistics ezhaust 101 when I get home | ||
| Oopezoo |
Thanks, but I have it.....I went through that 101 this last time, which is why I thought I had it nailed. I loosely installed everything, started at the heads, and worked my way down very slowly......checking everything multiple times as I went. Then it kicked me in the nuts and got parked in the garage for 6 months. I'm not bitter and don't blame the bike. I'm dealing with an aftermarket exhaust can that has issues to begin with. Borla redesigned the mounting system on those mufflers a few times......I have the original version. I was expecting it to take a little trial and error if I was going to get it to work at all. Just hope I can make it work, as I really don't want to trash an otherwise perfectly good muffler (that sounds great). | ||
| Upthemaiden |
The isolators only cover the connection between the engine and the frame. The exhaust headers and muffler are bolted straight to the bottom of the engine, so I'm not sure how new isolators would help the exhaust. My only guess is that something is off with your exhaust and when it's tightened down, it's putting too much pressure on the mounts somewhere and can't handle the vibrations. I wonder if header got bent or something like that under the previous owners watch, keeping the exhaust from lining up like it should? | ||
| Oopezoo |
Could be. Like I said, Borla went through numerous changes to how their muffler mounts to the early bikes. They started with tabs that were welded from the pipe to the mounting points on the bike. Those have since both broken off and I ground off whatever was left of them. Eventually, they ended up with exhaust pipe clamps very similar to what I'm attempting to use. What I don't know is if they changed the bend or geometry of the pipe during those mounting changes. I'm just attempting to use what I have instead of dropping serious coin on a whole new system. I appreciate all the input | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Have you tried using some rubber in the mount to damp vibrations to the exhaust? Either a few simple rubber washers on each side, or you could get pretty creative with it. | ||
| Oopezoo |
baby steps......let me get these isolators (which I should be doing anyway) and new swing arm on first  Also replacing my grimy oil bag while I'm at it | ||
| Oopezoo |
Made good progress this afternoon. I got to the point where I have the old swingarm and mounting block out. I'm not sure why anyone messes with making that tool to spread the frame. Once I got everything unbolted, the motor/swing arm assembly easily dropped right down out of the frame. If I was just doing the isolators, I could have had it torn apart and back together easily in under 2hrs. I just need to clean up the grimy mess back there and start reassembling. It actually went really smooth. The rear isolators were definitely shot. It was very noticeable once the rear end was up in the air. You can see how they look like a slanted hockey puck.  And here is with it out of the bike and sitting perpendicular to a straight wrench.  I don't know if I will get it all back together this weekend, but I hope to at least get the new rear isos back in along with the new aluminum swingarm. (Message edited by oopezoo on February 24, 2017) | ||
| Ralph |
I wouldn't count the isolators as shot. Deformation is normal - it's rubber with a steel washer. To me, it's shot when they are torn. My '96 is still on the originals. There was a fair bit of slop in the dimensions in the frame. Most frames are very tight when you go to install the isolators. During the isolator debacle shims were used to correct the fit of the frame to isolator to make sure it was tight - not at the factory, but at the dealer level - when new isolators were installed. |
