| Author | Message | ||
     Dan_m |
From 2009 service manual:  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Cool! It didn't even occur to me to do it through the lifter hole, which is likely to be open when you are rebuilding the motor. Thanks! Sorry your loss is my gain. If you break an exhaust stud, I can return the favor and share some very hard won lessons.  | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Gearboxes for air-cooled BMWs are accessed through a rear cover. This means that the thickness of the cover gasket affects the endplay on the shafts. Careful measurement and shimming is involved. This is because, even with the OEM gaskets, changes in suppliers, and even changes in production runs, affect final gasket thickness (compressed thickness, not just fresh thickness). There are no notes on the gasket packaging, the information and measurement procedure is in the service manual. | ||
| Jasonmcelroy |
Dan, If it's any consolation . . . many have learned this same tough lesson. Lessons like these over the last twenty years of building bikes has taught me to trust nothing and measure everything. As to your claim that you're no mechanic, that's not true. And now you're one step closer. Remember to have fun despite the setbacks. Makes the ride sweeter when you understand the machine more fully. Jason | ||
| Tootal |
 True dat! I've been a machinist for over 38 years and I'm still learning! My shop teacher at trade school told us that the day we quit learning is the day they throw dirt in our face! | ||
| Dan_m |
Ok, now i want to make some cost estimations to know if either i will part this bike (or sell it as it is at a low price) or repair it. Firstly, buying a used engine it is not an option to me, because i consider the price to be very height compared to what i am willing to spend for repair. So, if you were in my position, what would you do? Personally, i was thinking to buy a set of oversize pistons and rings from Wiseco (1207cc) from ebay, and send my cylinders to a shop for bore and hone job. Problem is that i don't know what to do with the wear marks that the cams made on their bores edges, on the cover and engine case side. For now, all i can do is to check the end play of cams and hope that it is still within tolerances. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I faced the same question with my 2007 (which is less desirable than your 2008 and up model) First, I bought a higher milage but PRISTINE 2008 cheap. $4500 with tons of accessories. 30k+ miles, but it literally was showroom perfect. So now I have reliable rider. Next, I bought an upgraded crank and associated parts for my 2007. Over the winter, I will split the cases and replace the crank, and do whatever else looks like it should be done on a 2007 with 30k miles and a bad crank that was parked very early in the crank death cycle. That was my approach. My real delimma, provided I successfully fix the 2007, will be to decide if I sell it or keep it when I am done. It's value will be low, maybe $2500 on a good day? And at that price, I'm a buyer. Even if it means I have an XT and an X parked beside each other in the garage. I'll sell the KZ400 (an interesting diversion that taught me a lot but also showed me that even the good 1970's bikes still sucked). So I am really fixing it, just because I can, and because I don't want to bury such a lovely bike. I feel like I need to keep it on the road, even if I someday just give it free to somebody who I know will appreciate it. That was my decision. It's really personal and emotional though, and its just money at the end of the day, so there is no right answer. (Message edited by reepicheep on October 19, 2016) | ||
| Hughlysses |
I wouldn't think those worn surfaces on the engine case and cover where the cams fit too tightly would be terribly critical. I'd suggest wrapping fine emery cloth around a flat object (like a file) and touch these surfaces up so that they're at least smooth and relatively level. Another question is how do you correct a too-tight end gap on the cams? The shop manual says "make repairs as required". Change brand of gasket? Install double gaskets? Have the oil pump cover, engine cases, or the cams themselves machined to provide more clearance for the cams? | ||
| Steveford |
Probably different gasket for the end play. OEM would be good. Wiseco pistons will give you a really high compression ratio (12 something to one, I believe) which is why I went with OEM. Maybe go with this? http://www.nrhsperformance.com/ekitbuellxb12r.shtm l I'd see how much slop you have in the cam bushing area before doing anything else, though. Hughlysses, I believe, said that there's no bushings, they ride directly in the case. Just about anything can be fixed with enough determination. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You should also contact Cometic for their opinion. I had too once regarding a gasket for a KLR-250 that was problematic (it was plain copper, and wouldn't seal in spite of correct installation). I wasn't trying to chew them up or anything, or charge them for my labor, I just wanted to tell them that a product they are selling just doesn't work. I was suprised at how responsive they were. | ||
| Sagehawk |
I just looked in 07 x parts manual and they list no shims for cam set. Only timing chest I've been in is 96 road king and there were shims available for that. Is progress really that much better? Wherever the galling is at, I would have a machine shop kiss those faces and get rid of buildup. As long as your under the max clearance all should be well. That parent metal bore, if it isn't chewed up and your under the max there, all should be well also. Manual on 96 sporster sport of wife's says thrust face is on crankcase side of cams and that's where to feeler gage. I use indicators mostly because I have a few of them and it's easier to see and I've never been that good with feeler gages. | ||
| Dan_m |
Thanks for replies! @Hughlysses: personally i think that as long as you are installing OEM gasket, you will not find yourself in too tight end play situation. service manual makes reference only to service wear limits - this is the to lose side of gears end play. @Steveford: 1250cc kit from NRHS is above my budged, also. About Wiseco pistons, is this kit any good?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Top-End-Kit-3-508IN -10-5-1-1200-Sportster-For-Buell-/231256218781?has h=item35d7f1dc9d:g:SyIAAOSwcBhWT~GR&vxp=mtr Reepicheep: before buying the kit from ebay, because no seller could send me a real picture with the kit, i've sent an email to Cometic, to ask for some informations. No reply from them. But i can send them an email again, no problem. | ||
| Reepicheep |
It would be helpful to dig a bit. If it really is a tolerance stack up issue with the thickness of that gasket, they need to get them recalled and off the shelf ASAP. And based on my limited interaction with them, I would think they would want to try. It won't help you at this point, but it may help some other Buell owner. | ||
| Dan_m |
@Reepicheep: i've sent then an email a couple of minutes ago. I will inform if they will answer. | ||
| Steveford |
Here's the Wiseco Buell Firebolt page: http://www.wiseco.com/ProductSearch.aspx I'd contact Wiseco before making that eBay purchase. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Have a phone call or email with twin motorcycles and see what they think about it! They are not that far away! | ||
| Dan_m |
Brother in buells, thanks for suggestion! I was waiting for answer from Wiseco firstly. The answer arrived, and maybe this will help others. So, the piston kit from Wiseco, with 10.5:1 compression ratio and 0.01" over bore is K1747. | ||
| Steveford |
That's good to know! | ||
| Steveford |
And? | ||
| Ourdee |
Anyone here did the 88 CI kit? | ||
| Sagehawk |
What does the bore size become to achieve 88 inches? | ||
| Dan_m |
@Steveford: for moment the bike is in one piece again. but i cannot confirm 100% that it is repaired good. This is because the bike is still in my apartment, and recently we had here some heavy snow fall so for now it's not possible to take the bike outside and test it. What i can confirm is that the engine has started but i had to shut it off within a few seconds because it was too much smoke in the room. | ||
| Njloco |
Being that I just got back into bikes I can't say for sure but, you should not have started it at all if you could not leave it running, for that is the time when it breaks in, or at least that used to be the case with automobile motors that are just rebuilt. | ||
| Ourdee |
Open the window. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I don't see the issue. Just don't forget your helmet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0h-ASbkrYPM | ||
| Ourdee |
Like I said,"Open the window". | ||
| Arry |
That's the advantage of renting. | ||
| Ourdee |
I used to weld in the kitchen and the landlord was ok with it. | ||
| Dan_m |
To be sincere, the issue of starting the engine indoor it's not the smoke, but the neighbors (although i think that using a percussion drill will make more noise). @Njloco: the engine barely ran for 3 or 4 seconds, i hope i dind't mess things up. I was very curious if it will start, because i was suspecting a problem with the ignition system(no sparks), before tearing down the engine. Next engine start up will be outside, ready to ride the bike for break in. | ||
| Ourdee |
Dan, It is what it is. You will be fine. Just don't do it again. I try to never start my bike unless I'm going for a ride. When they were new at the dealers salesmen liked to fire them up and blip the throttle to try and get that sale. Lot of bikes were sold with fouled plugs. On a Buell that is a real bad thing to do. |
