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651lance
| Posted on Wednesday, December 28, 2016 - 04:08 pm: |
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Time for a new crank seal and engine flush.
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Pontlee77
| Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2016 - 08:23 am: |
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Crank seal is the one behind the flywheel in the primary, right? The carb is and will be refurbished by a Harley mechanic, he 99% works with Harley's, and is always full of bikes. So not much more I can do now all oil and fuel has been drained, and cleaned the engine with brake cleaner. The seal won't be here until next week, so I can concentrate on the exhaust hanger and a couple of other bits. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2016 - 09:56 am: |
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Yup, that's it. Though on an HD motor, unlike Japanese bikes, the flywheel is inside the crankcase. What you are calling the flywheel is the stator bell with the magnets in it. Substantial, but nothing compared to the actual crank weight, that's the real flywheel in these motors. (I don't know what it's called in the parts manual, maybe it is called the flywheel, I always called it the stator bell). The primary chain, clutch assembly, and stator bell come off as a unit. That way you just have to remove a couple of big nuts, not take the whole clutch assembly apart. You will drop your ratchet into a pan full of smelly primary fluid at least once before the job is done, no matter how far away you put it. It's some kind of quantum physics entanglement thing I can't really explain. I just toss the wrench in there as soon as I have the fluid out to end the suspense. It's good ratchet lube anyway. |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2016 - 01:06 pm: |
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The stator bell is often referred to as the alternator rotor. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2016 - 01:27 pm: |
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Is not the first primary I have done, on the uly i had I put a XB 9 primary, also did it to my X1. Just need an extra pair of hands, did it once alone and nearly crushed my fingers, learned the lesson , but when i start I don't stop until i finish what I had planned to do. |
Lakes
| Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2016 - 04:18 pm: |
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Bit late posting, years ago i filled the cases of an old kick start only HD shovelhead up with gas, was on a long run with friends, we camped the night . when i went to start the bike noticed condensation all over the cases, also noticed i had forgot & left the gas petcock turned on. i tried kick starting , it was rely hard. so i opened it wide up with ignition turned off air cleaner off , i kicked it four times with it off to pump in fresh air. then turned it on, & in two kicks i got it fired up but a stream of gas was coming out the crank case breather hose, so shut it off, knew what was up. as luck would have it the shovel had delcron cases they have a crank case drain plug, so drained it out went bought new oil. gave it an oil change. from that day on , i never forgot to turn off the gas with petcock!! just residing you have had EFI bikes so i know your petcock is always in the on position? |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Friday, December 30, 2016 - 05:27 am: |
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Learned the lesson, it won't happen ever again,it's good that the ignition is close to the petcok I will also make a little piece of paper and stick it to the dash to remind me. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Sunday, January 01, 2017 - 04:14 pm: |
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One las question, on the primary the front sprocket, where the magnets are how do I loosen the nut? As per the manual it seems is reverse clock, i took the rear one as it was clock wise, it was hard, but the front one is even harder. Thanks |
651lance
| Posted on Sunday, January 01, 2017 - 05:52 pm: |
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The front one should have red locktite on it and set at 165 ft of tq. If you use a lock bar or a primary wedge to keep the primary chain and the sprockets from spinning. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Sunday, January 01, 2017 - 06:26 pm: |
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I use a home made lock bar, and it works fine, but going over 200 of torque and still doesent get loose. I know the shoe was changed for the better one, but I doubt the primary was ever taken out. I think finding a long bar and put it over the wrench and see if does release. At least I was able to change the exhaust bracket for the Y one. |
Ralph
| Posted on Sunday, January 01, 2017 - 06:38 pm: |
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It's a tough one. I use a long bar (five feet - it gives me good control) slipped over the end of my 3/4 breaker bar. I prefer the lock bar, like you are using. Mine is made of brass. |
Easy_rider
| Posted on Sunday, January 01, 2017 - 11:44 pm: |
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did it once alone and nearly crushed my fingers,did it once alone and nearly crushed my fingers, I sort of did that. Smashed what I can best describe as my right hand ring finger. Didn't catch it by much, but as I jerked my hand out one of the sprocket teeth tore a big gash in my finger. That finger goes numb first anytime I ride in the cold. There's always the shop manual version of a repair. I threatened to write a sequence of events of all the things that go wrong while trying to follow the manual after that round. One of the nuts is reverse thread. You probably know from experience, but the magnets will fight you when it's time to pull the sprocket off. |
S1owner
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2017 - 02:30 am: |
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Mine was really bad. I tried a 4 ft bar with an 18" 1/2" breaker bar and a standard socket all it did was break the bar! Then I got the specific socket and tooth lock put a little heat on the pully to loosen the lock tight and off it came with a 3/8 ratchet!!! The right tools make a huge difference! |
S1owner
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2017 - 02:33 am: |
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S1owner
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2017 - 02:33 am: |
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Pontlee77
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2017 - 06:35 am: |
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I ment the sprocket in the primary, the one for the belt sprocket I have the same tool, but wine I didn't have it I used a small drill,made a couple of holes on the nut that holds the belt sprocket and with a hammer and a screw driver it breaks in half, if you do ir right you only need to but a new nut. |
651lance
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2017 - 08:48 am: |
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Your fighting the red locktite. The red locktite releases with heat. Heat the nut up and give it a shot. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Monday, January 02, 2017 - 12:35 pm: |
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Ok nut out, didn't find any traces of the red loctite, now just need to take the primary out, not much of a problem but as the shop is closed Monday's and Tuesday's ( it's open on Saturday and sundays). So wait until,we stay for the seal and get back the refurbished carb. time to clean the tools and the bike. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 12:50 pm: |
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I removed the seal and it started leaking petrol, how do I empty the engine block with out taking it apart? Thanks |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 01:11 pm: |
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Lay it on its side. There is no real need to drain the petrol. After installing the new seal, run a change of cheap motor oil through the bike for just long enough to clean out the petrol and any bits of trash that might have entered the engine while it was open. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 01:12 pm: |
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Perhaps the easiest would be via the timing plug on the right side. You should be able to see the flywheels once it's out and then tip the whole bike on its side into a bucket. If it's coming out the shaft seal, it's at least halfway up to the shaft! |
651lance
| Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 01:20 pm: |
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there isn't a drain on the bottom of the engine. the crank case cavity sits lower the the oil pump so removing the oil pump and tilting the bike will only get a little more out. What I did in the past is put the oil seal in and the primary back together. Pull off the oil filter. remove the spark plugs. fill the oil tank with oil. Crank the engine over until the oil comes out of the filter housing clean. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 03:44 pm: |
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I was talking about this:
You know only without the clear plug Dropping the oil pump would probably be a good idea too. At least roller bearings are more forgiving of this type of thing. You probably got away with it. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2017 - 05:35 pm: |
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I think I'll follow Lance's advise and go with the oil, thanks to every one, I want to get back the bike in riding order, I have the X1 the is my favorite Buell, tubers have the soul XB lack of, friend with other Buell always wanted to trade their XB for my X1 I said sure your bike and 10.000$ |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 02:00 pm: |
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Perhaps a section of hose would be appropriate to direct the oil into a pan instead of all over the bike and floor? |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2017 - 02:33 pm: |
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Got a clear house for that, thanks for the advise. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Friday, January 06, 2017 - 12:17 pm: |
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Lance, when you did that, did you fill in you primary or left it empty? I'm slowly getting there a just recieved the carburetor, so I'm going at step by step, and not go mad and want it all done now. |
651lance
| Posted on Friday, January 06, 2017 - 12:29 pm: |
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flush your primary out first with brake cleaner and make sure to get around the gears and shifter drum. Fill with a quart oil of your choice and start cranking. you might want to put your bike on a battery tender first. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2017 - 05:52 pm: |
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Just need to put the air cleaner back on, add some oil and start the bike, all looks good so either Sunday or Monday I'll give it a run. Any concern I should take? |
651lance
| Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2017 - 08:13 pm: |
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Run like,you stole it. |
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