| Author | Message | ||
     Lagerhead |
Started messing with my 2006 XB12x that I recently purchased. 13,000 miles completely stock. Started with buying a dongle and downloading ECM droid. I saved my stock map, loaded a race map from BuellTooth.com, making sure my maps matched. I have BUEIB firmware. Did the TPS reset. (did it wrong the first time, had poor idle , did a proper TPS reset, everything runs good.) So today, I go to install a spec ops pipe I recently purchased. remove belt guard and chin fairing. Pull off old pipe, I leave the exhaust cable intact, an tuck it under the exhaust. I fire it up, sounds great. give it a couple low revs and let it run for a few minutes and shut it down. I reinstall the plastic bits, go to fire and it does not start. It would crank but not fire. No codes on the dash. I get a check engine light. I tried to plug in my dongle but get an error code. it says "timeout reading 0 from 6 bytes" So I think i have a faulty dongle. I go to take my key out and the fan immediately turns on like it was running for a long time. I'm thinking thats strange but the fan will turn off eventually. Nope, the fan was in a constant off/on loop until i disconnected the battery. I waited a few minutes and when i reconnect the battery, the fans kicks on. What is happening to my bike? Does anyone have any ideas? Is my ECM fried? Is that why I can not connect to it via ECM droid? Why is my fan constantly on? I examined the ECM, did not notice any rubbing, but I did notice the post on the left is missing. Maybe it cracked on the inside? Any help or input is greatly appreciated. thanks | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I don't know about the error codes and engine light but blipping a cold engine will foul your plugs. The fan being stuck on does point to a bad ECU though. Some here have accidentally hooked up the battery backwards and it does that. | ||
| Tootal |
Is the ecm stock or is it an EBR replacement? An EBR replacement does not like ECMSPY. Natexlh1000 is correct, never start a cold bike, rev it and shut it off. Plugs are now wet. | ||
| Lagerhead |
It's a stock ecm. I will pull plugs when I have time. The battery is installed correctly. Maybe putting the Chun spoiler and belt cover bound something up or shorted a wire? Still does not explain the fan. (Message edited by Lagerhead on December 01, 2016) | ||
| Teeps |
Lagerhead Posted on Thursday, December 01, 2016 - I saved my stock map, loaded a race map from BuellTooth.com, making sure my maps matched. Did you by chance load a Buell Race ECM Eprom vs separate fuel(2) and ignition(2) maps? The Eprom from the Buell Race ECM will not work in a stock (street version) ECM. Don't ask me how I know... | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Try checking ECM Spy's reading for cylinder head temperature. Maybe the sensor's wire has been grounded and the ECM is getting an incorrect reading. Also, check to see what the maximum fan run time is set to. | ||
| Lagerhead |
Teeps, that is a good question, I loaded a map from buelltooth.Com it said Buell race map, BEUID. What happened to you ecm. I want to know. Mark, I cannot connect to my ecm. The minute I reconnect the battery, the fan kicks on and I get an error reading from the dongle to the ecm. Is this a sign of ecm failure? I will try to read codes tomorrow via Datta port and the bridge method. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
A small snippet of info that may help you: The fan always gets +12V but is turned on when the ECU gives it ground. Is it at all possible that the harness leading to the fan got compromised? | ||
| Steveford |
The problem started when you put the plastic bits on so remove them and see what you've got. Take a close look at your wiring. | ||
| Teeps |
Lagerhead Posted on Friday, December 02, 2016 - What happened to you ecm. I want to know. The ECU was not harmed, so I just reloaded the stock Eprom. As I recall, the fan was on soon as key turned on, engine would start but not run above idle and then would stall out. Simple answer: The program layout within the ECMs are different between race and stock. http://www.ecmspy.com/eeprom_info.shtml My guess, it was done this way, to prevent converting a stock ecu to race specs because of emissions. Maps which are only a portion of the overall programming can be swapped between race and stock. I have done that too but the butt dyno said there was no difference. So, I switched back to stock mapping. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Look and see if you managed to pinch a wire going to a sensor like speedo as if you grounded out the 5, volt feed it will play havoc. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The ECM's use a Pic Microcontroller under the epoxy. When they coded the C program that runs it, they likely separated the logic of how the ECM operates (all the "if this than that" statements) from the baseline constant numbers they are using in that logic (for example a two dimensional table of fuel injector duty cycle percentages versus various RPM's). The constants would be loaded into a separate section of flash memory so they can be updated in the field without changing (or exposing) the program using the data. The net effect would be that the logical layout (and contents) of the data would need to match the program version. And the Race and Stock ECM's would likely have different programs. (Message edited by reepicheep on December 07, 2016) | ||
| Lagerhead |
So, I finally had some time to work on the bike. It's all fixed, took 5 minutes. I removed the pully cover and found a pinched wire. Put a little tape on it and fired right up. Thanks for all the input!! Now to put miles on it.  | ||
| Teeps |
Lagerhead says: I reinstall the plastic bits, go to fire and it does not start. And, Firemanjim takes the win! DOH! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Is that the speed sensor wire? I'm trying to figure out how such a teeny little wire could bork the bike up so easily. Shunted +5V to ground perhaps? | ||
| Teeps |
Yes, Nate, a shunted 5v reference will effectively blind the ECM to its operating environment. On most cars, the symptom would be cranks but no start, with the check engine light either flashing or staying on solid. Shorting the 5v reference wire is a cheap way to prevent a drive away theft. Similar to the old school method of grounding the primary coil wire through the cig lighter. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Always start with the last thing that you did. I've worked in a bike shop from time to time. Following that rule would have saved a number of my clients a fair bit of change. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That looks like the crank position sensor. Without that, your spark plugs will never fire. That'd do it. I wouldn't purposely ground out any 5v reference. If it doesn't blow some voltage regulator on some board somewhere, it will at least overheat it and shorten it's life. | ||
| Phelan |
The 77 connector pictured is only under the pulley cover on 03-07 bikes, which don't have a crank position sensor (cam sensor) the cam sensor and speed sensors have the same plugs, just different colors. |
