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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Valvetrain: Cams, Lifters, Pushrods, Rockerbox, Valves, Springs, Guides, Seals, Retainers, Seats » Top-end rebuilt... break in « Previous Next »

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Homie
Posted on Monday, November 28, 2016 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is how I see it, controversial so I will cite my reference. Replaced the following per the service manual; hydraulic lifters, push rods, rockers & bearings, pistons/kits and all top-end gaskets.
I plan to prime the engine oil circulation by removing the spark plugs & fuel pump fuse then turning it over either my hand in 5th gear or short bursts of the starter. A 10w40 conventional (petroleum base) non-synthetic will be used for initial heat cycling. Firing up 30 seconds, cool down. 1 minute, cool down, 1.5 & 2 minute total run-cool cycles. 10-20 miles of moderate acceleration & equal deceleration. Dump and replace conventional oil again running more aggressively for a total of 50 miles. Dump the oil once more finally BLASTING OFF on fresh redline 20w50. Have I missed something?
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

(Message edited by homie on November 28, 2016)

(Message edited by homie on November 28, 2016)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, November 28, 2016 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did pretty much that with a brand new XB9SX and it ended up an oil burner. Not terrible, but enough to have to pack a quart on a long road trip.

That's not to say don't do it. More to say "it probably doesn't matter that much".

Getting that first oil change done after 50 to 100 miles seems intuitively to be the most important part to me, but I suspect it doesn't really matter either, given we have oil filters.
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Homie
Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2016 - 01:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"I did pretty much that with a brand new XB9SX and it ended up an oil burner"

I wonder why? Did you do a leakage test? Rings or valve trouble? I wish you had followed up, you are spooking me now oO SM offers detailed procedure for a conclusive diagnosis with compression test and how to interpret the results concerning high oil consumption. Unfortunately the same service manual isn't telling me how to break this top end rebuild in properly... Pffffff
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2016 - 07:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That 9sx ran like a clock for 33k+ miles, most reliable motorcycle I have ever owned. It was running perfectly when I sold it after getting the Uly. The oil consumption meant I had to pay some attention, and add 1/3 quart two or three times between oil changes, no big deal.

I doubt break in was a factor, and that mototune break in procedure still seems like a reasonable one to me.
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Homie
Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2016 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh that doesn't sound too serious. The Mototune break in seems logical to me, I'm running out of time weather wise : ) Today is the last day in the 50's. Need to step it up and pull the trigger or wait until spring. At least I will be able to keep the temperature down for the initial cycling.
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Akbuell
Posted on Tuesday, November 29, 2016 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Per my '08 XB owners manual:

Break in-First 50 miles, keep engine speed below 4k RPM. Don't lug the engine by running at or accelerating at very low RPM. Don't run at high RPM any longer than needed for shifting or passing.

Up to 500 miles, up to 5k RPM is permissible. Vary engine speed, and avoid operating at steady engine speed for long periods of time.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Homie
Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2016 - 02:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Dave, do me a favor and pop on over here and see if you know what this hose hooks up to if anything. It has been a huge waste of time today trying to find more information about it.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/798188.html?1480490739
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Akbuell
Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2016 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll answer here for both posts.

I'm with Reep; that is the vent hose for the oil cavity that serves the transmission and primary drive.

On my XB, the hose runs behind the rear cylinder, over to the left side. Then up, in front of the fan, then through the hole in the frame in front of the top mount for the rear shock. It is then pointed down and tie wrapped to one of the upper coils of the shock spring. The end is left open.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Homie
Posted on Wednesday, November 30, 2016 - 12:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh brother that's perfect and now I recall that routing... perfect! A little closer to firing up.
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Homie
Posted on Friday, December 02, 2016 - 10:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sweet mother... finally stopped dragging the anchor over initial start up. Plugged in ECMspy and got a go from all systems and sensors. TPS reset, fueled up, turned key and VAROOOOOOOOOOM! Preformed the heat cycle for a few minutes then road 20 miles up and down the tachometer in 3rd and 4th gear pretty hard on a forest preserve road. Drained the cheap oil and put some more cheap oil. No leaks, nothing unexpected. Could feel the compression building in that first few miles. Going to run it harder Saturday for another 30 miles then compression test to see if MototuneUSA's break in is worth all the effort. Not going to put in the redline 20w50 syntactic until 1000+miles. That will be hard for me since lifters is why I rebuilt but it's part of the piston ring conditioning so say Mototune. I will be the judge of that in the end : )

(Message edited by homie on December 02, 2016)
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, December 03, 2016 - 08:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Excellent!
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Homie
Posted on Saturday, December 03, 2016 - 05:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mototune has got it right IMO. I like what I see in a compression test. 15 psi over the service manual's 120psi requirement. Currently (135psi) NICE! I will check it again at 1500 miles to report the grand fanally as this is only 50 mile compression test. Ride them in hard I guess. I love it! THANK YOU MOTOTUNEUSA

(Message edited by homie on December 03, 2016)
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