| Author | Message | ||
     Natexlh1000 |
I lucked out though. I caught it before it fell over, and I was able to remove the chunk of bolt that was left over. I have a couple questions though. Do I have to remove the muffler to fix this? Has anyone here tried using studs and nuts instead of the bolts? | ||
| Nillaice |
I'm not gonna say it's impossible, but It's definitely a lot easier if you get the muffler out of the way and lay the bike over on some blankets or in the grass. I don't see the advantage to studs compared to bolts. | ||
| Teeps |
Natexlh1000 Posted on Friday, November 18, 2016 - Do I have to remove the muffler to fix this? Has anyone here tried using studs and nuts instead of the bolts? Yes. Probably not. Here is the original thread from 2006 and a follow up from 2008 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/287535.html http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/370519.html | ||
| Ratbuell |
I put studs in mine this time around. Bolts have a small taper/pinch where they mold in the bolt head; that's where they snap. So, I got studs. Slotted the end for screwdriver installation, and double-nutted them. So far, so good. Next step...ARP studs. IF they break again. And yes, I drop the muffler. Easier to get tools in and make sure everything is evenly torqued. I also got a flat-file and "machined" the mating surfaces of the case, and the stand bracket, as flat as possible to eliminate any "wobble". | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Managed to get the muffler off. Front clamp corroded from road crap over 40,000 miles of being behind the wheel so it broke rather than unscrewed. I have a pretty persistent leak under there at the case halves. Everything is pretty coked up under there with the heat. I wonder if I can reduce it by troweling in RTV or something. I'm not looking forward to mounting that heavy thing once my clamp and front strap come in. Looks like it may be a bear. I may even paint my muffler while it's off. Looks like some scrap found on a beach. | ||
| Teeps |
Nate, I can't imagine installing the muffler, solo, without using a floor jack to raise the muffler into position. That said, yes, do clean and paint the muffler while it's off. Far as the oil leak, if it's wet but not dripping on the floor. I would do nothing more than clean it good. If it's dripping I'd probably clean it good, then lay a thin bead of J.B. Weld down. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Thanks. It's not dripping on the floor yet but has been seeping for a good number of years. I notice the replacement bolts have some sort of dry locking compound on them. Is this enough? Should I augment it with the blue stuff? | ||
| Teeps |
The factory locking compound would be good if it's fresh... Since we don't know how long the bolts you have, have been on the shelf. I would clean the bolts of the factory compound and use some fresh blue loctite. Proper clamping forces are needed for a trouble free repair. My side stand has been on since the dealer did the recall 9 years ago... | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've done the muffler a lot without a floor jack. I sit kind of cross legged and use my feet to help wrestle it into position. Don't forget about the exhaust valve cable if it's a 12. DAMIK.  The ceramic engine paint holds up better than black BBQ. Hit the exhaust with an angle grinder with wire brush, then paint, and it will look very nice and hold up for a season or two. I don't know and haven't looked, but is it possible there is a bolt that secures the case halves together that could be tightened to seal the cases back up a bit? Maybe one is there and untorqued a little. This is pure speculation, so take it with a grain of salt. Did we get the aftermarket front strap thing figured out yet? I know we steered at least one person wrong and got the wrong size. I think they ordered a size down, but don't recall if they confirmed it fit or not. Maybe while your exhuast and front hanger are off and on the bench, you could measure it accurately and see how big that strap should actually be. If not, I'll have my Uly apart this winter and I'll do it then. | ||
| Arcticktm |
I recall the aftermarket marine clamps were a bit thinner steel than the OEM, but some are using them anyway. I just went with OE part for no excuses. I had my muffler sandblasted by an auto shop I know of (who also weld repaired the inlet that tore out after from clamp broke). I then used VHT paint from Advance Auto (flat black and then the satin clear to give it a bit more finish). Lots of thin coats and then used a heat treat oven at work to cure it per directions. Muffler too big to fit in oven! So far (a few months) it has held up well, but my bike is garaged and a mostly ride the KTM now, so Uly is only out about 1x month. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Wow, I just fell for a thread hijack, but then again the muffler removal WAS related to the original post. I'm still not sure if my sidestand is pre or post recall (June 2016 production bike). | ||
| Reepicheep |
 (To complete the threadjack, the aftermarket clamps I got were slightly less beefy than the factory parts, but they worked fine including verboten "reuse" of them a couple of times). | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I just ordered a new front strap since I was having to order the muffler clamp anyways. I'm still torn on whether or not to repaint my muffler. Seems like a lot of work for a clown that never washes his bike. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I never washed the old Uly, and I repainted, just so it was dirty as opposed to rusty. I have to wash the new XB12XT, so I redid that exhaust also. Every time I don't wash it, I can feel BuellerXT's dissapproving stare all the way from Texas, given he kept the bike in showroom condition for 30k miles before I bought it from him. (I should have paid him more to scratch it up and get it dirty before I bought it. ) | ||
| Motorfish |
Don't waste your money on powder coating your muffler. Mine didn't last too long. Next time I repaint it, I'm going to try POR 15 heat paint. I have over 6k miles on aftermarket clamps I bought at a truck supply house for 5$ a piece. They are holding up fine. I had my side stand fixed by the dealer about 9 years ago too, and haven't had any problems. | ||
| 1313 |
June 2016 production bike 2016?  | ||
| Njloco |
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-High-Temp_p_104.html Good stuff when done correctly. | ||
| Hughlysses |
One of these days somebody's going to get aggravated enough to reproduce the stock muffler in 304 stainless steel. I may just need to take a welding class next year and buy a TIG outfit... | ||
| Teeps |
Hughlysses Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2016 - One of these days somebody's going to get aggravated enough to reproduce the stock muffler in 304 stainless steel. That would be one expensive muffler... | ||
| Ramman4x4 |
Looks like Drummer still makes their muffler in a SS version. Though it is probably not as "quiet" as the stock muffler. http://www.kdfab.com/drummerss.htm | ||
| Johndd |
I have an 06 and was wondering how to tell if I have the defective kickstand.... | ||
| Ramman4x4 |
It's not a defective stand...the mounting bolts break. There are a lot of guesses as to why it happens, but generally bolts don't like bending load which they get a lot of from the Uly kickstand so overtime they just fatigue and break. Replacing them anytime you have the muffler off is not a bad idea. | ||
| Teeps |
Johndd Posted on Thursday, February 09, 2017 - I have an 06 and was wondering how to tell if I have the defective kickstand.... There is nothing wrong with the bolts now, or back then. Updated bolts have been in place on my '06 for over 9 years. The updated side stand will be held on to the bracket with a C-clip instead of a threaded step bolt. Please see the links posted above. | ||
| Ourdee |
What is the torque specs for side stand mounting bolts? | ||
| Teeps |
Ourdee Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2017 - What is the torque specs for side stand mounting bolts? 25~27Lbs/ft. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B063A-263609.pdf | ||
| Johndd |
Teeps, Thanks for the brochure link. Was able to determine my Uly has the modified kickstand. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Browsing this looking for some info as a get more nervous about the wobbly sidestand on my 08. Bracket is secure, the pivot pin, the stand, or the hole in the bracket that holds the pin is the culprit... Has anyone here replaced just that, manual just describes replacing the whole assy. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Mine is wobbly too. Seems secure though. It's secure until it's.... not. Right? | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Movement at the pivot pin is OK, it's looseness where the bracket attaches to the bottom of the engine case that causes the problems. A little wiggling for a while and the bolts start to break. If all three bolts are tight, you are fine. I had to heat and bend an open end wrench to be able to reach all three bolts. That, or remove the muffler... | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I gave up and pulled the muffler. It gave me a chance to go after the cooked on oil/carbon from the small crankcase leak. Funny thing though, I was able to see where it was leaking all this time and found one of the case bold was not torqued down. I gave it a quarter turn and it stopped leaking! I was putting up with that little leak for years! |
