| Author | Message | ||
     Anaconda_jiu_jitsu |
do i need to replace the cap?havent tried it yet,but worried about leaks? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've had two knock off versions (not even Optima's) horizontal for several months now, no problem so far. Or if there was, I didn't smell it.  | ||
| Ourdee |
I use an MSR bottle. | ||
| Ratbuell |
+1 on the MSR. Been carrying one for years and no leaks. Welll...as long as I put the cap all the way on... | ||
| Ourdee |
=] | ||
| Biffdotorg |
+2 MSR Fuel Bottle on the bike, and on the sled in the winter. There is a company called Agri Supply that sells the tool/manual tube that fits an MSR bottle perfectly with a sock around it to eliminate rattle. Good luck | ||
| Ourdee |
I trust the MSR bottle so much it and my clothes ride in the same bag. | ||
| Smorris |
what capacity msr fuel bottles are you guys carrying? the tool tube idea is a good one. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I got two $10 750mL bottles from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0116HTH18/ref=o d_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I think I calculated it out, and it could get me at least 15 miles if I was hypermiling carefully and riding slowly. Maybe 25 miles if I stayed at about 15 MPH. | ||
| Ourdee |
I use 2 one quart or one liter bottles. 28 or 30 ounce if you leave room for expansion. I do. I think I put 10 or 12 CCs of sea foam in with the fuel. | ||
| Ourdee |
I rode to Indianapolis this weekend. I was thinking it was time for fuel when the engine cut out. I was beside the off ramp. Made a quick exit and as the bike was heading up hill it started to fire again. Made it off the ramp. Then onto the next road and as I turned to the road the gas station was on, Lil Red died and coasted into the station and right up to the pump. I am getting pretty good at knowing when I need fuel. So, on the return trip I stopped an exit early each time fuel was needed. At a BP station that was prepay. I took a 20 to the cashier. She said the whole 20 on 8? I said it won't take it all, I'll be back for the change. She said she needed to know how much to enter. I smiled at her, took my 20 back and left. The next station wasn't prepay. I'll never stop at that BP again. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I always worry that the fuel pump will overheat so usually I head to a gas station as soon as the low fuel light comes on. I just replaced a fuel pump in my 97 Harley bagger. Got it new on E-Bay for about $18. I see the one for a XB12X is $35 but the picture looks exactly the same for my bagger. Probably is. The OEM fuel pump from Harley would have set me back around $220. I'm sure it's probably a better one and a perfect fit for sure but the $18 Ebay fuel pump is working perfectly so far. I had to modify the plastic cage that surrounds the original fuel pump to get the Ebay fuel pump to draw from the bottom of the tank. I also had to de-rust and Kreme the Harley tank. A bit of work but now as good as new. It is nice that the Buell tank is aluminum so rust is a non issue. Since I've never had the Buell's fuel pump out for any reason can anybody tell me if there is any sediment or other crap that settles down or gets caught on the pump filter? | ||
| Reepicheep |
I pulled two of them, both 30k+ mile XB's that never had the fuel pump out before. Both had some brown goo on the floor of the pump assembly, and both flushed brown goo from the charcoal filter packet. Neither had actual hard sediment or anything that i think could clog a fuel injector. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Reepicheep, Thanks for the info. My FLH tank was all rusty and the inside tank coating was 1/2 gone. I always used ethanol in that bike and I'm blaming the rust on the water that ethanol attracts. For anybody that may be interested in de-rusting a Harley gas tank then this is what I would recommend from experience. Drain all gas and then dump in a quart of rubbing alcohol and swish around, drain and then let dry completely. Remove all the innards like fuel pump and filter canister. Dump in a pint of Navel Jelly and swoosh around to coat all the tanks insides. Let it do it's work overnight. Rinse out with hot soapy water and then do the alcohol thing again. Drain and dry. If there is still patchy factory coating in the tank you can get rid of it by dumping in a gallon of MEK solvent and swooshing it around and letting it sit for awhile and then swooshing and waiting. It'll melt that coating off the inside of the tank just give it some time. MEK is good stuff and try to keep it off the paint job on the outside of the tank. Drain and dry. MEK evaporates right now. Do this outside because the fumes are nothing you want to breath much of and certainly not around a flame source or spark. Then KREME coat as the bottle instructions direct by shaking and swirling it around inside the tank. Dries fairly quick. Do outside also because it fumes pretty good too. Dealers sell a kit but just buy the KREME by itself from the dealer or online. The other stuff separately from your Hardware store to save money and to do a more thorough job. Pain in the butt job but not hard to do and the result is that your tank is good to go for many more years after you KREME it. My FLH tank insides looked like toast but now looks great. | ||
| Sagehawk |
eg97 , thanks for that post. Ive got my 96 flhr out finally and fixing to get into timing chest and upper end. bike has sat for 4 years and i'm sure the tank is as you described. Mine is carbed so i won't have to fool with pump and wiring. just a manual fuel gauge is all. oh well , it is becoming fall after all, right? I always am anxious for our one day of winter which happens generally in february. Hah! |
