| Author | Message | ||
     X1bully |
I read the gasket is paper? So I just remove it and make a new one with rtv gasket maker? I haven't unbolted it yet to know what it looks like. Do I run the bead around the cylinder? Or just between the clamp and the engine block and it will cover the leak when bolted back down? Can't use to much? Wipe excess? What should I use to clean the oil off? Water will evaporate but should only use a little bit? Or none at all? I have some rtv clear gasket in a tube. Colored is better? Does it look like it's not the gasket? What's the torque spec for the Allen bolts? Thinking about doing it myself in a couple days.  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
There are O-rings and brake cleaner works perfect for removing the oil. (but do ventilate when using!) | ||
| Steveford |
Uneeda service manual. Lubricate the O-rings with a drop of oil, too. A bit of Crazy Glue will keep the O-rings seated in the holders if needed. That comes in handy if you're using Cometic parts instead of Harlee. (Message edited by SteveFord on October 22, 2016) | ||
| X1bully |
Guys, can I do this without taking off the gas tank and head? I just want to unbolt the allen bolt in the pic. So there is a O ring that fits around the cylinder and both the block and clamp has a milled channel for this O ring? Can I lift the O ring, repair it with gasket maker? Then set it back and bolt it down? Or buy a new O ring or rings, cut it so I can put it in without taking off the gas tank or head. Add some gasket maker for the cut should be good? | ||
| Ralph |
Yes, you'll be removing the heads. New O rings top and bottom. No gasket maker, no silicone, no cutting O rings, no short cuts - they don't work. By the way, you'll need new head gaskets too. Unless you are super careful and don't disturb the cylinder base gaskets, you'll need those too. Although honestly, I'd replace those at the same time. If you are concerned about having the ability to remove the gas tank, you might consider paying somebody to do this job for you....somebody professional. | ||
| Johnod |
Unless the X1 is completely different, you need to remove rocker boxes, not the head. | ||
| Ducxl |
 Been so long since I did this...Lower rocker box must remove...I once did (under extreme protest) the cut gasket/gasket maker short cut/w utter failure on someone else's bike who only wanted to ride "today". | ||
| Ducxl |
Part numbers for reference.The parts counter is ALWAYS surprised when I hand THEM a parts list.I hate the generic "year,make,model" questions  | ||
| Jim2 |
These are a real pain in the a$$. If you replace the conical seals on the bottom, you should also replace the O-ring type seals on the top of the tubes. When you get the bottom seals to seal you will almost surely pinch a top seal. When that happens you need new bottom seals if you used the superglue method or you'll get it all back together and now the bottom will leak. Some have resorted to zippers adjustable push-rod covers so you can just remove the top rocker covers, remove the pushrods and then collapse the adjustable rod cover to replace the seals. That solution comes with an expensive upfront cost but is the best solution. It is not recommended to use the adjustable pushrods, just the adjustable covers. I recommend buying extra seals for top and bottom of the covers so you have them on hand after your test ride when you have to start all over again. When you lube the seals, too much lube = bad, too little lube = bad. It's gotta be just right. Whatever you take apart for this job that has gaskets you will want to replace the old gaskets with new ones. Good luck, if you succeed you will be a real man Bueller  (Message edited by Jim2 on October 23, 2016) | ||
| Jim2 |
I want to clarify my statement. It's not a difficult job, just that it can be a pain to get it right the first time. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Another nice upgrade is the one-piece pushrod bases from NRHS (or comparable) - much better sealing than the one-ring-per-tube setup the factory used. Replace everything from the base gasket up (including the base gasket). Do it right...or you'll get to do it over | ||
| Ducxl |
Mine have been fine since I did them roughly 13 years ago...If you're a torque wrench FREAK as I am you'll need the Service Manual recommended "Torque Adapter" to properly torque that one bolt hidden beneath/between the rocker box and frame.I have many of these I also use for torquing Ducati jugs which secure from beneath their head  | ||
| K12pilot |
The easy way.....If everything else (gaskets) is/are intact..... Cut the tubes & pushrods with a bolt cutter Collapsible tubes & adjustable pushrods new seals & be DONE!!} (Message edited by k12pilot on October 23, 2016) | ||
| Ralph |
Johnod, thanks for the catch. Yes, you only need to remove the rocker boxes so you can pull the push rods. That allows you to "sweep" the bottom of the push rod cover (after removing the retainers, naturally). That will save all the other work and gaskets since you don't have to break the heads loose. It sounds stupid, but I've never removed the push rod covers in and of themselves. I've had the heads off so many time I don't even think about it. I can see how it's going to take some extra attention to not pinch the upper O ring while sweeping the push rod cover back in place. | ||
| X1bully |
Thanks the pic gives me a better idea of what all the parts are. Well at least the head doesn't have to be removed. lol. Doesn't look to difficult. My other bike is a nightmare to work on. Had to strip the whole thing down to get to the top mount sparkplugs. A guy over the phone said I could use gasket maker. That would have been nice. lol I researched this awhile back and someone suggested adjustable tubes and pushrods and cutting the old ones out. Why would this be a bad idea for the x1 engine? Or not? Adjustables are not good for race engines? The adjustable parts loosens from higher revs? What would you fix first? 1. Crank seal and shifter bushing, leaking oil from shifter and whipping out oil out the transmission vent occasionally. 2. Rocker arm O ring leak/s. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Fix the crank seal first. It will spray tranny fluid on your rear tire&brake. I wouldn't suggest the adjustable pushrods. Once the stockers are in correctly, they last a long time with minimal fuss. | ||
| Airbozo |
Crank seal was not that hard BTW. Just a little time consuming if you have not done it before. ...but, that is how most things are on these bikes. Not that hard, but takes patience. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Ive taken the bike almost entirely apart and THAT was the most frustrating part of my engine rebuild. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
Like others have said, have an extra set of at least the bottom seals on hand as you will likely ruin at least one. I don't like the adjustable push rod method, adds unwanted weight to the valve train and seems like a big hammer for a small problem. The first time I did it , they leaked, got it sealed fine the 2nd time. That said, I enjoyed the experience so little that when I went back into the motor to install N6 cams I went to the one piece billet base. IMO this is the way to go. FYI NRHS no longer offers them, I got mine from Hammer. | ||
| Johnod |
By the way intake and exhaust pushrods are different and should be marked from factory. | ||
| Purpony |
if you have the coin... the zipper collapsible pushrod tubes and solid bases are the way to go! I upgraded my bike to the hammer solid bases with the stock pushrods and they are still a pain in the butt to install. I ended up then buying the zipper setup and what a difference. Super easy install and COMPLETELY sealed the first time and so far has stayed sealed.... expensive but worth it if you plan on keep the bike! | ||
| X1bully |
I think it was zipper that was recommended. I gotta look at my notes. Had to replace the starter last time and a new rear tire recently. Yeah the crank seal gets oil on the tire even with the mud guard over the rear wheel. Guy at the dealer said it was dangerous since it got oil on my rear brake! I was thinking of routing the vent hose to my kick stand so it just dumps straight down to the ground in the meantime. Also my other bike has the gas tank under the seat so I never had to mess with fuel lines. That's something I've never messed with on anything car or motorcycle. | ||
| Jolly |
Ive done the zippers collapsible push rod tube assemblies on all of my tube frame Buells and not a drop of a leak. Here is my write up for my first time doing this http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/714295.html?1371451238 | ||
| Jolly |
I also have a step by step job guide on all the steps and things that can be combined on this: Upgrade rocker box gaskets Upgrade to XB rocker box covers Collapsible push rod tube assemblies | ||
| X1bully |
Thanks Jolly. Interesting that you are using stock pushrods but collapsible tubes. Still got to take everything apart for the stock rods but makes the o ring change easy if it leaks again. | ||
| Jolly |
The collapsible push rod tube design pushes the top into a seat against an o-ring and the bottom into a seat with an o-ring and the base is mated to the block with an o-ring and they expand with pressure against the o-rings due to the pressure of the spring as the motor grows. I've done this on 5 of my bikes and not a single leak or seep. It's not really about quick access to the push rods, it's about using a better design. |
