| Author | Message | ||
     Anaconda_jiu_jitsu |
107.00 off ebay, 'battery tender' brand. this thing fires off the uly FAST!!!! bought a charger for it for 40.00 , same brand. Gotta do it fellas! | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
That is a good price since the lead acid Harley batteries are 120 bucks. Prices must be coming down. Nice to hear. | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
Been using this brand in a couple bikes for a year or 2 now. The bikes I dont ride as much as my uly. Good stuff | ||
| 1313 |
Interested in YOUR long term experience with this setup. Please keep us updated, 1313 | ||
| Reepicheep |
Without some pretty sophisticated electronics (basically an independent charger for every individual cell), I'd be skeptical of many LiIon batteries. I know my neighbor swears by them. And has a stack of bad ones on his workbench, some replaced under warranty, some he had to eat the cost of. He races, so it makes sense for him. But as bad as AGM the lead acid batteries are, they are more reliable than the LiIons. | ||
| Teeps |
I agree Reep, about the charging needs of LiIon batteries. There's a reason that hybrid cars have computer controlled battery management. But, what is "BAD" about AGM batteries? | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I've had a lithium battery in my '82 BMW for nearly four years, one in the Uly for about a year and a half. They still seem to work. I had an opportunity to speak with the Shorai folks at the AIM Expo last weekend. They've extended their warranty out to five years (I think that's a good sign). They also explained the issue with use of a standard battery tender. It was explained that the 'float' phase of most battery tenders holds a lithium battery at a lower than optimum charge level. They said that standard chargers and tenders were fine to use, but to not leave a lithium battery attached after reaching full charge, unless using a lithium specific charger. I was told that the lithium tender sold by Battery Tender was one such example. Since I do not live in a cold weather climate, a lithium battery's need for a warm-up period ( lights on for 60 seconds) has not been an issue. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
That's so weird. So in order to get your full cold crank current, you actually have to drain the battery a bit first? What a country!  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Basically, a cold battery can deliver enough current to warm up a battery, and a warm battery can deliver enough current to start a vehicle. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
When I lived in the midwest, during extreme cold weather, the same technique worked with lead-acid batteries. Below -20F, first turn on the headlights for a minute, then off with the lights and crank the starter. The technique would work when the first turn of the ignition key only brought a groan from the starter. It's not about charge level, it is about getting a chemical reaction going. (Message edited by Mark_weiss on October 24, 2016) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I mean to say I get the idea of it but it's still pretty weird. I wouldn't have thought that the battery would warm up enough to matter. I wonder what super capacitors would do at low temps? Typically, a capacitor's value goes up when cold due to the dielectric shrinking. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Walmart is selling the Deltran lithium ion battery cheap. I think mine was $98. I've been running it all summer in my Ulysses without any problems so far. |
