| Author | Message | ||
     Blasterd |
Anyone have any suggestions? False neutrals, neutral light not working unless you hold the shifter slightly down, cant get into 5th gear. It just started this morning. Ken | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sounds like an internal linkage issue to me. Pop off the primary, and clutch pack and stator as an assembly, and look at the shift pawl. I bet the detent plate has backed out, the pins on the drum are skewed, or the nuts holding the pawl in position have come loose. | ||
| Reepicheep |
(thinking out loud)... do blasts crack the primary tensioner backplate as well? If that thing broke and then got loose, and is wedged up around the shifting mech, that could be doing it as well. I would bet money your detent plate or shifter drum pins are skewed though... | ||
| Spooky |
The Blast primary tensioner is very different from all other buells. It would be very hard to break the tensioner. | ||
| Captainplanet |
Someone on the blast page had this problem about 6 months ago. You might search there. Just read your profile. Is this happening on your M2 edited by captainplanet on April 23, 2004 | ||
| Sarodude |
Ken- The issue I'm gonna describe seemed to happen on the 01 Blasts - but maybe yours is a late 2000. There's a detent screw that may have been improperly installed. This can back out and actually rub on the back side of the starter ring gear on the clutch basket. If that's the case, you'll definitely have to pop the clutch / stator as Reep suggests and tighten that bolt. Interestingly, the Blast manual I was looking in didn't seem to have a torque spec for that fastener... -Saro | ||
| Reepicheep |
Doh! Never stopped to think that "Blastard" might be riding a Cyclone. Definately pull at least the primary cover. If you have not yet replaced your primary chain tensioner with the new part, I would say there is at least a 50% chance your primary tensioner backplate is broken. (but I still bet it is a crooked detent plate) | ||
| Blasterd |
Reepicheep, Sorry about the Blasterd thing, I didn't want to re-register. Yes I converted to a Cyclone about a year ago. I replaced the primary chain tensioner about 6 months ago when I replaced the primary gasket. Everything at that time looked perfect and the bike had about 5000 miles on it. I am going to pull it this weekend and see, thanks for the advise everyone. Ken 2000 Cyclone | ||
| Newfie_buell |
I don't suppose the primary chain is way too loose. Try that first, Sometimes the easiest thing is mostly overlooked. | ||
| Blasterd |
Ok, here's the deal. I adjusted the clutch, primary was right on mark, and still a shifting problem exists. What is considered the detent plate? the pressure plate? Is the adjusting screw supposed to have play in it? Actually the bearing assembly has play as well, not in the bearings but the whole assembly including the release plate. Is that common? It has enough play that the inside of the primary cover has a groove where the outer ramp has rubbed it. Help.... Ken | ||
| Blasterd |
please....... | ||
| Crusty |
Blasterd, get yourself a service manual. I'm not sure what you're saying, but there shouldn't be excess play in your clutch. To check the detent plate, you need to remove the clutch assembly. It's not difficult, the entire clutch comes out as a unit, along with the front sprocket/alternator and primary chain. Once the clutch is out, you will see the shifter pawl and detent plate. The service manual will give you specific step-by -step instructions on how to do the job. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sounds like you are talking about the ball and ramp assembly for the clutch engagement. Adjust that per the manual, I believe it goes in until it lightly (I have had better luck with moderately) bottoms, then 1/4 turn back out, then excercise the clutch full engagement and out 3 times. I think. It's whatever the manual says. I believe it will have just a little play when you do this. The Detent plate is a kind of star (lopsided) shaped disc like thing. You don't see it until you remove the clutch pack, primary chain, and rotor as a unit. Each valley in the plate corresponds to a gear, one very shallow one being neutral. An arm with a roller rides over these hills and valleys to center the mechanisism in position for each gear. It is held on by a metal spring clip, but has been known to come off or get skewed. Also when you are in at that level, you can see the pins on the shift drum that the arm on the shifter pawl hooks onto. It will make sense when you see it. What exactly is grooved? Grooving in the primary cover from the primary chain is pretty normal and pretty harmless (given the fact that broken tensioners are pretty normal). | ||
| Blasterd |
Crusty, I have a manual, I just did not see detent plate refered to anywhere. Reepicheep, the primary cover is grooved where the outer ramp is rubbing it. What has play that I was concerned about is the adjustment screw and the plate that houses it, should it move side to side? Nothing states anything about play in the manual. I screwed the adjustment screw in until it had resistance ( to me that says until it gets tight). The groove is coming from the left side of the outer ramp, it is touching the inside of the primary cover where the clutch inspection cover goes. Ken | ||
| Steveford |
I think I know what your problem is if the clutch pull feels stiff as well - that weird ball and ramp assembly that the clutch cable attaches to isn't inserted quite right. I can't recall the exact procedure but you need to slacken the clutch cable, pull the assembly out and reinsert it as when it's in there properly, it won't contact the cover. Also, you screw in the clutch adjuster until you feel it just lightly touch, not until it's tight. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Tighten the screw until it just lightly touches. See if that fixes the problem. The manual gives a pretty clear procedure. I have never see any grooving there... | ||
| Phatkidwit1eye |
I think my vote would go to a problem with the detent plate. This is just a guess and I might be wrong but.... If that lil clip came off your detent plate then your detent plate might be moving around or barely even on the pins. Which might explain why you have to hold down your shifter to get it into neutral. I know when I took off my clutch basket my detent plate fell right off and I found lil ground up pieces of the clip in my primary. My problem was that the pins pushed out. I was able to push them back again but I really didn't trust it so I went ahead and bought the baker shift drum. Although putting the baker in and getting every thing right was a giant pain in the arse. Although I must say after all that I can get my primary off and tranny out in about 30 mins or so. I forgot what the sizes are for the sockets but you will need one deep socket to get the sprocket off. If you do take them off don't forget about the left hand threads. | ||
| Blasterd |
Guys, I have made numerous adjustments to the clutch over and over according to the manual and the advise of others on this board but have had no luck. I had to park the bike and hitch a ride to work due to the fact that it is sticking in gears now and I don't want to cause any more damage. I guess I am to the point where I am going to have pull the entire clutch to see if there is problem internally. Before I do that is there anything that could be wrong in the tranny? I checked the primary chain and it is in spec. If I do have to pull the clutch, is there anyone that would feel the love and loan me a clutch spring forcing screw and a spring compressing tool? I will pay for shipping. Ken |
