Author |
Message |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 09:33 pm: |
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So my 04 xb12 is leaking oil out of the fitting above the oil filter and under the sending unit switch. I hoped it was the line fitting but it's not its the fitting going into the filter housing. I need to remove that fitting so I can seal the threads but the sendin switch is in the way. What size is that nut on the sending unit? I know I need a special socket. Is it easier to remove the headers or can I do it without removal? Any other advice would be great |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Wednesday, August 17, 2016 - 07:17 pm: |
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This forum sucks |
Hogs
| Posted on Wednesday, August 17, 2016 - 09:18 pm: |
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Why dont ya just try a pair of pliers buddy http://www.hyperclaw.com/water_pump.shtml |
Rcontroler
| Posted on Wednesday, August 17, 2016 - 09:49 pm: |
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Why yes those appear to fit most anything. Nice product. Wonder if they include an instruction sheet? |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2016 - 03:38 am: |
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No need for removing the header ,just a small work space so work slow and careful. Remove the sending unit like suggested above and do the line and 90'fitting with good tools. |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2016 - 09:56 pm: |
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Thanks guys I tried channel locks since that is what I read on the sportster forums but they don't fit, the fitting was actually loose when I took the line off. I could twist it with my fingers. When I re install the fitting does it need to be torqued or just let the thread sealant do its thing? Do I need to unplug the switch? Don't want to twist the wires up and break them This little leak has made a mess of my bike |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, August 19, 2016 - 09:26 am: |
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What does the service manual say about the torque on the sensor? It's generally pretty good about including that level of detail. I'd think it's not the kind of thing you really torque down, but you want to make sure it doesn't back out either. Is it pipe threads? Or does it have a sealing o-ring machined surface? I've never pulled it. |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Friday, August 19, 2016 - 09:29 am: |
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The wire from oil pressure switch is easy to pull off. When putting on some sealant and screwing back don't screw it all the way in or force it ,it has to be tight but don't want to crack things! Let the sealant dry before screwing the oil line back on or hold the fitting with a pliers. |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2016 - 09:19 pm: |
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Well fixed it Saturday and took it for a ride tonight, checked the fitting about 30 mins in and it was not leaking. Then checked it when I got home and was leaking from the same spot again. I used permatex high temp #59214 |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2016 - 09:22 pm: |
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Tools needed 1 1/16" 6pt deep socket T27 1/2 line wrench Pliers if the fitting is stubborn coming out |
Rcontroler
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2016 - 09:38 pm: |
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Post a photo if you can. If it is leaking like my 9s was I have a fix. At least what I did fixed mine. |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2016 - 09:49 pm: |
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Close up of the fitting with the line removed |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2016 - 09:55 pm: |
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Same pic. I think that fitting is a tapered npt thread
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Rcontroler
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2016 - 10:41 pm: |
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Mine was leaking at that same elbow. I got a new elbow and sealed it as designed but it began leaking soon afterward. I resealed the elbow and then I installed a stabilizing brace onto the oil line. I used 3/16 thick by 1 inch wide stock about 4 inches long to make the brace to keep the elbow from 'wiggling'. (If you idle the engine and look real closely you can see the elbow rotating ever so slightly in the housing.) The brace clamps around the crimp on the oil line and the other end I attached to the muffler clamp bolt. (There was enough excess bolt sticking out to install the brace and an extra nut.) I deduced that the engine shakes but the frame that the oil cooler is attached to does not which causes the loosening of the seal at the elbow. I will post photos of my fix soon. This happened to my bike back in 2008 at about 10k miles. She has over 30k now and still no leaks knock-on-wood. |
Rcontroler
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2016 - 11:37 pm: |
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some photos
I assume your 12 is set up similarly. I had to swing the clamp around to suit. I don't remember having to modify the chin spoiler. And no there are no broken motor mounts or braces on my bike. |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2016 - 06:27 pm: |
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That makes sense, mine has a clamp over both lines but not to anything stationary. Not sure if it's a stock clamp or not. |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2016 - 06:37 pm: |
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This is the clamp, but the lines are joined together so they probably bounce togehter, however the ends of the other line are flared so they seal. |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2016 - 06:46 pm: |
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Rcontroler
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2016 - 08:40 pm: |
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I removed that clamp on mine. |
Neightfrog
| Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 10:04 pm: |
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So I finally got back to the buell, figured I would try Teflon tape and the liquid Teflon together which I feel more confident since the city went I much harder than the last time. I'll check back once I get to ride it |