| Author | Message | ||
     Biffdotorg |
I hope you guys don't mind me bringing up an older topic, but it seems to be timely for me as my starter just took a dump this morning. I tried replying to an old thread, but it would not bring it to the top as it was archived. My starter clutch has bailed from what I have been reading on here. It just whirs and will not engage. So can replace the starter clutch or spend a similar amount on a third party starter. I wanted to order one of these Rare 1.4kw starters, but I noticed one user experienced oil leaks around that model. Any issues from what you have seen? The price is right, and a more powerful starter would be appreciated. Thanks for your help guys. Links to videos or pics of pulling it out the right side would be appreciated too. I see plenty of write ups, and I suppose I will figure out which oil lines they are referring to once I tear into it. Wish me luck. If anyone wants my starter to rebuild, I hope to have it out in less than a week once the new one comes. I am Googling badweb like a mofo as we speak! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Given the stock starters all seem to leak also, what's the problem?  | ||
| Griffmeister |
When mine went I just replaced the clutch, the rest of the starter was fine. The only problem that I had later on was the usual pause on first compression stroke. That was just my battery saying it was getting too old for this sh*t. New battery fixed that. Just take a couple of pics before you pull it out. It helps to remove the clamp holding the two steel oil lines together for more flexibility. When going back together, be sure to route the trans breather hose with the wires going up the back of the frame. It's real easy to forget and let the hose touch the exhaust manifold, I found that out the hard way. | ||
| Biffdotorg |
That's a good point. I was worried I may have a head gasket or base gasket leak when I saw oil back there. But after researching this issue, I know exactly what it is and you are right. I put a charger on my bike tonight to be sure that it's just not from a low battery and once I put my smart charger on, it was reading good and at 96% full charge. After topping that battery, the bike did start right up three times in a row, but the hesitation is there and it still made the odd noises it has been making for the past week or so. This starter is on it's last leg and I cannot trust it. Hell, I even put a charge on my wife's bike as a backup as I refuse to drive my truck to work when it is this nice outside. Thanks for the smack up side the head with reality. Even though I think I could buy the starter clutch parts for $50-$60, the $139 shipped of the more powerful starter makes sense to get rid of that hesitation on start. | ||
| Tootal |
Mine has hesitated on start for years. You have a long stroke high compression engine. You can save a lot of money on batteries by just letting off and hitting it again. My rebuilt Harley does the same thing, nothing to worry about. It's true a brand new battery might cure it for a short while but after it wears just a little it will start doing it again. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My 2008 has the starter crap out too. I just got one of the knock off chinese copies from Amazon. It went in fine with the exception of the outer cover bumped into the oil line a bit. I dremeled the cast aluminum for clearance. It's not a hard job to do really. I would not bother to buy the Denso-H-D one as it was $380 or something when I asked them. It was after all the one that failed in 55,000 miles after being weak since new. I stripped down my original starter and found the solenoid ring contacts were poorly aligned and the sprag clutch that crapped out, looked just perfect. Figures, right? The part that looks like fail was still working while the part that looked mint was failing. | ||
| Biffdotorg |
Got my new Rare starter off Amazon, and my starter gasket and a bottle of HD Formula plus for the Primary. Drained the primary and was going to pull the shifter linkage when I remembered, I sheared the bolt off clamping the linkage to the shifter shaft. GRRRR!! That was one of those, I will replace that the next time I need to pull the primary cover. As I sheared it off when I replaced my Stator last season! I guess I will start a new thread looking for a shifter linkage. As I doubt there is an easy out that will pull that screw out of there. I hate easy outs and reversed drill bits. Bad luck with both as probably have no idea how to use the properly. Suggestions are gold right now guys. I think I may be able to pull the linkage off with some sort of wheel puller, and use a new linkage or salvage piece in somebody's part out. Of course the screw will come out easier with no pressure from the shaft I suppose. Thank you   | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Don't apply force to that shaft. The pawl gizmo will get borked. If I was trying to get that off, I would try a dremel with a cutoff wheel down the slot and then pry the ends a bit with a huge screwdriver. One it's off of the bike in your hand, you can probably get the damn thing out. | ||
| Biffdotorg |
That's a really good tip. As the arm itself is out there new on Ebay. But it still doesn't ship with the bolt. So getting it off is the hard part. Once that bolt has no pressure on it, it should back out easily. Then I can find a replacement at the hardware store. Thanks again! | ||
| Griffmeister |
If memory serves me right, I believe that bolt fits in the groove around the shaft. In other words, you can pry that gap open as far as you want but the bolt will still prevent it from clearing the shaft. Should be easy enough to confirm. If you drive a screwdriver or small chisel into the gap, it should make the lever loose on the shaft and you'll be able to wiggle it to see if it moves. If that bolt is in the way, pulling the lever off by force will result in metal being sheared off either from the bolt or the shaft or both. Might be better to drill out the bolt up to the threaded portion so you can remove the lever safely then deal with the rest on the bench. BTW, that should be a 10-24x1 1/8 socket head capscrew P/N- AN1009.2CXZB. | ||
| Hughlysses |
^ that's correct. Bolt has to come out before part can be removed. You can just drill the bolt all the way through and replace it with a longer bolt and nut if the threads get boogered. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That's annoying. The top half of that arm isn't threaded. So if you cut the bolt off flush with the *bottom* half with a saw or cutting wheel, you *might* barely have enough clearance to pry it way open and wrestle it off. A left handed drill bit is better for these kinds of things, but may be hard here, first because that screw shaft is so small, and secondly because it is close to the cases and hard to get at. Thinking about it, I suppose it would be better to use a normal drill bit, but come into it from the *bottom*. Possibly better access, and less material to get through before you are removing the thready bit. It's probably not that expensive part. You might want to just cut the arm off and be done with it. | ||
| Tootal |
From the picture it looks like the "head" of the screw is on the bottom. That means you can drill it from the top. Cut the screw off with a dremel cut off wheel. The head should fall out of the bottom. Then take an 1/8" drill and put it in your dremel and spin at a low speed and try to drill a hole in the tip of the screw. Use some cutting oil. With any luck the drill will catch the screw and spin it out through the bottom. Once the screw is cut in half you should be able to pull the arm to the outside to make room for a dremel to get lined up. | ||
| Biffdotorg |
The tips are great guys. This is going to be one of those nights in the garage with a couple beers, a bit of swearing, but very satisfying once done. At least I know I can get that part if all else fails and I cut it off. I will try my hardest to get that screw out first. Thanks for the part number Griff. As I may go in search of that, and buy the arm off Ebay knowing that there is a very good chance that I am going to trash this thing trying to drill out that screw. Wish me luck, I will post back with pics as this Shit Show commences. | ||
| Biffdotorg |
According to the parts manual, the bolt that is sheered off is the same bolt that connects that down-rod in the linkag only longer AN1006.2CXZB 10-24 x 3/4 Socket Head AN1009.2CXZB 10-24 x 1-1/8 Socket Head Although it says it has "lock patch" on it, I am assuming that is a form of thread locker. GRRR At least I can pull one of those off and hit up my hardware store for a replacement in case I cannot find one online (Message edited by biffdotorg on August 10, 2016) (Message edited by biffdotorg on August 10, 2016) | ||
| Tootal |
There is a Purple loctite that is used for small screws like that. I would just get a regular screw and use this. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Thread locker it is. You could also use blue (242) without worry on that size bolt. It's still considered removable. | ||
| Biffdotorg |
As a follow up to this project, I did end up hitting that bolt with a right-angle air drill. The issue was, the cast piece is much softer than the bolt, and it would wander easily. I ended up taking a cutting wheel on a dremel and cutting out chunks of the cast piece and breaking it off by prying it apart with a screwdriver. After breaking off a couple chunks and it came off. Only one ding to the shaft with the drill. It's still solid and I have the new piece in place now. Now I can dedicate my time to swapping out the starter, knowing I can get the shift linkage off and on easily. |
