| Author | Message | ||
     Ochoa0042 |
Well after about 10 minutes with a toothbrush and some AutoZone degreaser I gave up. I'm thinking about soaking motorcycle parts in an acetone water solution overnight, but I think that would kill the bearings, right? If acetone works then let me know. If not let me know any other solutions to deal with all this  | ||
| Nillaice |
Will it fit in your dishwasher? | ||
| Teeps |
I use safety solvent or mineral spirits. Or, paint thiner. Been seeing Gunk all purpose degrease being hocked on car fix show. I was going to give a try, but have not bought any yet... Curious, autozone degrease is it a citrus based product? | ||
| Ducbsa |
Whatever you use, have a plan for 100% rinse, so no nasties are left to ruin bearings. Some machine shops may have a big enough ultrasonic cleaner. | ||
| Phelan |
Keep in mind you still have moving parts in there that should be pulled out beforehand (lifters) and make sure to clean and pack the output shaft bearing afterward and replace the seal. | ||
| Cycleaddict |
i know some rednecks that use gasoline ,a large open top, oil-change type pan and a old paintbrush ,to clean it. | ||
| Ralph |
I drop big parts off with a local shop and they run them through the tank for a six pack of adult beverage. | ||
| Norton952 |
umm, this is not that HARD! Solvent, plain old parts washing solvent. Not paint thinner, not acetone. Harbor freight has it, Safety-Kleen is a common vendor, and most fuel and oil commercial sellers have it. Industrial supply. Its the stuff people use in common parts washer tanks. If you dont have one already, get a Sunday paper or search on the web for coupons for Harbor freight. You can buy a parts washing solvent tank AND the compatible solvent for cheap,. NEVER pay retail for harbor freight. EVERYTHING is perpetually on sale somewhere. Just find the right ad and matching 20% off coupon, join the inside track club and Bob's your uncle. See: http://www.harborfreight.com/20-gal-parts-washer-w ith-pump-60769.html See: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/new-par ts-cleaner-what-solvent-to-use.442397/ Mineral spirits, Diesel, Zep, and all kinds of other suggestions. I just buy the commercial safety parts washing solvent. I have 2 batches. I filter it from time to time thru body shop paint filter/strainers and coffee filters (its slow) and then reuse. I DO NOT suggest diesel, gas, acetone or other chemicals. Full of carcinogens, and flammable. Wear a rubber apron, Buy some solvent safe long rubber gloves. (military suprplus chemical warfare gloves cost a fraction of safety supply gloves). I also use nitrile rubber gloves handling most oils, greases and greasy parts anyway and wear them under the long rubber gloves as a safety measure. Go to a body shop supply store and buy a good disposable charcoal filter respirator. Keep it clean (wash with soap and water and final wipe with rubbing alcohol) Costs $20. Replace if you can sense ANY odors coming thru filters. I set up a plastic rubber tray and a dish rack next to my solvent tank. Incline it slighty, as the parts I clean sit after cleaning the solvent drips off and runs back into the tank. Rinse the part well with Hot water, and use compressed air to blow dry. Then lightly lubricate all steel parts with a light coating of solvent. Set up a box fan NEAR the solvent tank blowing fumes AWAY from you! Do not use in enclosed areas without fresh air supply. When NOT using the tank UNPLUG the pump. And Cover with a thick plastic trash bag (VERY large) so it covers well down past the sides and wrap with a bungee. This prevents solvents evaporating. On re-assy and motor building-bike or car building I clean ALL fastener holes with a bottoming tap, clean out the holes and blow with 100 psi compressed air. Then, get some cans of brake cleaner. Attch the little red straw. Squirt a little in each hole and then blow out with compressed air again! (USE SAFETY GLASSES-Respirator- And turn on the box fan! I use a strainer to clean bolts and hardware in a solvent tank, use the brush. Then rinse with hot water and blow dry. Then before assy I clean ALL fasteners in a jar of Acetone or MEK. SEAL the jar. Swish thoroughly and then use a magnet or surgical forceps to remove fasteners. Get a mesh screen (metal) A french fry basket works well or go to Ikea. (IKEA IS YOUR FRIEND!) and buy stainless mesh strainers. Blow dry the fasteners. The idea is to have ZERO solvent or grease residue on any threaded holes or fasteners. I use Loctite religiously. Also any torque fasteners are somewhat lubricated by loctite so ADJUST torque accordingly. Read the instructions for proper use of thread lockers, sealants and locking fasteners. They DO NOT work if contaminated. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I want Norton952 cleaning my engine.  The generic "multi purpose lubricant" WD-40 knock off's can make good progress in getting through some grime as well if you are patient with a tooth brush. The foaming engine cleaners seem to work better than the non foaming ones. | ||
| Phelan |
Shameless plug about my job, next time I have to do this, I'll clean off the big stuff in the parts washer and then put it in the steam washer for 60 min or so at work. I did this on the inner primary of a 95 FLHTCUI that I serviced and the thing looked like brand new afterward. |
