Author |
Message |
Jim2
| Posted on Monday, July 04, 2016 - 05:56 pm: |
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I had a rattling noise up front. Noticed the front header tube shaking. The header retainer broke. No sign at all of the old gasket.
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Jim2
| Posted on Monday, July 04, 2016 - 08:04 pm: |
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Also did a lazy man's header polish. Sadded the rust off of muffler and re-sprayed. (Message edited by Jim2 on July 04, 2016) |
89rs1200
| Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2016 - 11:04 am: |
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Concerning Belts, I had the same problem with the factory/Gates belts. I my case they broke right across the belt between the ribs that run along the back. I consider ribs and the lack of strength in the belts the cause. Try BDL Falcon Carbon Fiber Belt brand that J&P cycle sells: http://www.jpcycles.com/product/601-828 Wife got a rock in her BDL belt and rode over 1000 miles on it. Pulled the rock out and kept going. Of course, replaced the belt when we got home. It is now the spare. |
Court
| Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2016 - 11:14 am: |
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Appears, for 2008 and 2009, to be a Blast fit only. |
89rs1200
| Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2016 - 11:43 am: |
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Morning Court: I have immense respect and gratitude to you Court, but this belt fits my S3. I have checked several distributors and they all show a 128T 1-1/8" belt. Please explain where it states this belt is for the Blast only. Robert T. |
Airbozo
| Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2016 - 11:54 am: |
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Well, it does look like the seal is toast. It also looks like it will always be an issues due to the self-destructing tensioner messing the insides up. Anyone have some good cases for sale? |
89rs1200
| Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2016 - 12:09 pm: |
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Morning Edv, I run my drive belt looser than the manual states, but in my experience, two and a half inches of slop in a drive belt is too much. Belt can start climbing over the front drive belt guard on the pulley. Additionally there is more "snap" at the beginning of acceleration and deceleration. This can cause the front pulley to slip and destroy the splines on the transmission output shaft. Indication of this is a squeak on acceleration and deceleration. Again from my experience. Live and learn. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on July 05, 2016) |
Ralph
| Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2016 - 01:27 pm: |
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Airbozo, shoot me an email bighairyralph"at"hot maildotcom |
Edv
| Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2016 - 11:13 pm: |
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Hello 89RS1200 The belt that just broke was a Falcon Carbon Belt.How I adjust the belt is I remove the bolt from the shock and when the swing arm is parallel and the belt is at its tightest point I set this adjustment at 3/8" deflection and when the shock is reinstalled and the bike is sitting on the side stand I have the 2.5" of slack. This is the only way I can see to adjust the belt so it does not go too tight upon hitting a large bump. I went back to a S&S Gates belt this time so we will see how this goes Thank you for your input |
Jim2
| Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2016 - 01:15 am: |
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Have you inspected your rear sprocket? When the coating wears thin it will start to flake thin shards of whatever the coating is and they will destroy the belt. It sounds like you are adjusting it right although I'm not sure you need the extra 3/8" deflection you are adding in. If you pull the shock bolt and line up the axle with the swing arm pivot and with the front drive pulley that is the tightest it will ever get so no need for the added 3/8". Also is it possible you are using a harmful cleaning product or solvent that is getting on the belt? |
Edv
| Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2016 - 08:32 pm: |
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Jim2, The pulleys were replaced at 66,000 miles as they were worn at that point when the last belt broke and at this point there are no flaking of the rear pulley. I use S100 cleaner and rinse it thoroughly as it is a mild acidic but I do not think this should effect the belt as many of our customers use the product with no ill effects in fact we change most dresser belts at 80-90,000 miles and I am sure they would go more. I have just resigned myself to change the belts at the two year mark no matter the mileage just to be safe. I put a chain and sprockets on my S1 for the same reason but on the S2 this is my touring bike and I like the lack of on the road maintenance. |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 07:51 am: |
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Last night I adjusted the belt to scary loose. I can almost touch the swingarm with it. Is that correct? |
89rs1200
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 10:39 am: |
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Morning Wolfridgerider, If you are riding a tuber, such as the S3, the service manual states; "belt deflection should be 7/8" to 1" deflection" when 10lb of force is applied, pushing up, mid way between the pulleys. I run 1.5" to keep the belt becoming way tight during its movement. Any more is not good! Can cause pulley or belt damage. Too loose and the belt can actually climb up the pulley guard. Also, see my above post. Also important is to get the pulleys in line. Check this by rolling forward 10'- 15'. Check the belt does not roll off the front pulley towards the motor which indicates the back pulley is facing too much to the left. Then roll back 10' - 15' and check again. Manual states to use a micrometer to measure the back of the axle nut to the rear of the swing arm, on both sides. Should be the same length. * Correction: I run 1.5" NOT 2". Discovered 2" is too loose. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on July 08, 2016) |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 11:00 am: |
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Thanks for the info. I will double check it. I'm hoping to ride it to Buells in the Alps at the end of the month. Its a 16 year old bike with less than 3000 miles on the clock, that concerns me. |
89rs1200
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 11:09 am: |
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* Correction: I run 1.5" NOT 2". Discovered 2" is too loose |
Jim2
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 05:18 pm: |
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See belt adjustment picture (scroll to last pic): http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=47623&post=2164953#POST2164953 |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2016 - 08:46 pm: |
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Found air box wellnuts and plastic washers for the bodywork. |
Edv
| Posted on Saturday, July 09, 2016 - 09:25 pm: |
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Readjusted the belt to 89rs1200 suggested settings and went for a 120 mile ride,much less knotchy now when rolling on and off of the throttle.thank you for the suggestions |
Lake_bueller
| Posted on Monday, July 11, 2016 - 11:16 am: |
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Just got back from taking the '98 S3T on a trip around Ontario, Canada. Just over 1600 miles of Beautiful scenery. |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Monday, July 25, 2016 - 03:34 pm: |
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Rode it to a Basic Rider Course I was teaching this past weekend. The ride was pretty nice in the morning. But the heat wave ride home about baked my right leg I am ready for some COOLER temps! |
Wileecoyote
| Posted on Friday, July 29, 2016 - 08:28 pm: |
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Wolf, Glad to see your still teaching. Hope all is well. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Friday, July 29, 2016 - 09:45 pm: |
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Bought a new H-D battery for S2 today $147 and 4 yrs ago same batt. cost $87 Thanks obama.
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Edv
| Posted on Friday, July 29, 2016 - 10:29 pm: |
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Installed anti rattle spring on the front caliper today and what a difference in loss of noise, nice. |
Lakes
| Posted on Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 04:34 pm: |
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Ebutch we pay more than $147us for genuine H-D battery here in Australia & have been doing so for years. but that is a big increase for sure, sounds like tax's went up a lot there |
Charger22
| Posted on Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 04:38 pm: |
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Mikuni hsr installed. But now need to get it to a shop as I think my crank seal just went. I had left the bike idling for 10 min after install was complete and went to go for a test ride. Lucky me found a Puddle of oil under the bike, so I popped the seat and it was spitting from the primary vent. One step forward 10 back. (Message edited by Charger22 on July 30, 2016) |
Ebutch
| Posted on Saturday, July 30, 2016 - 11:21 pm: |
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Yes it does point to the seal.Ales trying to save them.
(Message edited by ebutch on July 31, 2016) |
Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, July 31, 2016 - 02:01 am: |
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Charger 22- Crank seal is not too terribly difficult to replace,,, removal sucks and can really be a painstaking effort... Right up until you decide to drill two small holes 180 out from each other (DONT drill too deep, drill slow, "feel" the bit cutting and stop just as it breaks through) thread two small machine screws in and pull the seal that way. Install is much easier!! If you can't find the tool to install I'll loan you mine. While you're "in there" you could upgrade the rotor to the new style and maybe even replace stator so you have a brand new charging system and put your old original into bench stock... |
Charger22
| Posted on Sunday, July 31, 2016 - 06:41 am: |
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Thanks for the offer Jolly but I think I am going to let the shop handle this one. Have a ride planned in a few weeks and my schedule is booked up. Will look into having them do the rotor and stator per you recommendation. |
89rs1200
| Posted on Sunday, July 31, 2016 - 04:28 pm: |
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Rode the 120 miles of Utah Highway 12 and into Bryce Canyon. Also Highway 143 & 148 past Ceder Breaks National Monument. What a sight to see. What a ride. Checked that off the bucket list. Seldom can one see so many Triumph, Norton, MotoGuzi, Buell, Kawasaki and other sport bikes in one place. Motors from the 1960's to present. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on July 31, 2016) |
Brentx1
| Posted on Monday, August 01, 2016 - 01:03 am: |
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Put the S1's in the local Sycamore Car and Bike show today.
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