| Author | Message | ||
     Clydesdale |
as I have worked through getting my S2 road worthy, I have found a sizable crack in the header, just before it gets to to the Y junction from the rear cylinder. What are my options here? there are a couple of headers on eBay , but I need to wait a while before I can lay out the cash, and I can't be sure its not cracked too. Any point trying to have it repaired? Would I have to remove the header to get it welded ? If repairable, what do I look for to pick a qualified welder? thanks all Derrick | ||
| Jim2 |
You'll have to take header off. You cant see or weld damage on the backside with it on. I've had my M2 muffler welded twice with many miles since and still doing great. Maybe I'm lucky. Ask the welder if they can weld thin walled stainless steel. I'm assuming that the S2 is same as M2, someone correct me if I'm wrong. First time was a speed shop that builds drift cars. He was not cheap but I talked him down to doable. His handy work was displayed in cases on each side of the shop. Headers and turbo plumbing. I could see he wasn't going to pass on a challenge. Second time, different crack, was a retired aerospace worker. Used to fabricate for Grumman then NASA. He did it for $20! I felt like I ripped him off afterwords. Both did great work. The first time I could have bought a used header for the price but at the time none were listed anywhere and I was eager to ride. Good luck whatever you decide. Let us know. | ||
| 651lance |
If you are looking at getting a different header and your are still running the stock header make sure you by the correct header for an S2 or early S1. Most of the time the headers are breaking do to stressing the header out during the install. When in stalling the header you need to make sure you don't do the common mistakes. First, don't use the skinny exhaust gaskets, use the stock tapered gaskets. The skinny exhaust gaskets won't let the header sit in it natural passion. If the header has developed a twist over time the skinny gaskets will stress out the flange area. Second, make sure you have updated the lower header mount to the "Y" style mount to again take off the stress. Third, don't over torque the header exhaust stud nuts. If I remember correctly the torque spec is 8 ft-lbs, not good-n-tight. Replace the head stud nuts, these are a locking nut and are a one time use nut. Replace the exhaust header snap ring and header retainers if they are twisted or warped at all. Fourth, start at the muffler first when tightening up the exhaust system and work you way to the header. And remember to use the correct torque specs on all the fasteners. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I pulled a dented header (for a Honda CRF dirt bike) out of my neighbors trash just to see if I could weld it. I am by no means an expert welder, but got OK with oxy-actylene and had some success with thin walled steel. But I got NOWHERE with that header, let it cool, and threw it back in the trash. So it probably can be fixed, but take it to somebody who really knows their stuff. | ||
| Dannybuell |
651lance ~ good instructions. I get it all loosely bolted up first as I am sure you do. | ||
| S1owner |
Added to Lances notes attach the full system loosely wiggle and shake it so it sits in its natural position them tighten per spec from muffler up. | ||
| S1owner |
If welding bring it to a giid tig welder wont be cheap but it will be dine correctly | ||
| Ebutch |
I put an 1998 S header 2 1/2" front collector on my S2 with great results !!  (Message edited by ebutch on May 08, 2016) | ||
| Ebutch |
+ I have a stock S2 header 4sale $75 + Shipping no dents and polished.  | ||
| Buell_bert |
A Buell exhaust will need to be TIG (stainless) welded. You should easily be able to find someone near you. I did my own stainless exhaust placing a 5.3 GM engine and 4L60E transmission in my 93 Jeep YJ. Stainless is a lot easier than aluminum. | ||
| 34nineteen |
Also, make sure to ask to see their work. I've ran into my share of people who were probably great at welding together a pool gate or something similar, but had no business welding together header tubing. Once they start blowing holes through the tubing or putting down some horrible welds that $$ saved becomes time and $$ wasted. Don't take them at their word, ask to see their work! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My X1 cracked at the same place and my friend saw it as a challenge. He had become pretty good at TIG welding Aluminum. We went to the welding shop and got the right flavor of stainless filler rod. I took the pipe off of the bike and he drilled the ends of the crack to interrupt it. When he set out to weld it, he found right off that it's REALLY hard to maintain an arc in that tight area. In the end, the weld looked like crap but it's held for 35,000 miles so far. | ||
| Clydesdale |
Thanks for all the input guys, Lance: the listing I have for the stock gasket is 65324-83A, are these the tapered stock gaskets you are stating are the better choice? | ||
| 651lance |
I've tried other but the OEM 65324-83A work the best and go in the easiest. | ||
| Jolly |
Ebutch, you still have the header for the S2 for sale? I'm interested, PM sent | ||
| Ebutch |
One Sold But have another Stock S2 header $75 + shiping.No Dents. (Message edited by ebutch on May 10, 2016) | ||
| Ebutch |
Also a 1997 2" S header Front collector 2" New $100.00 + shippig (no Dents) | ||
| Clydesdale |
Butch, Sorry to jump off topic, but is that the factory white? If not, what did you use? | ||
| Ebutch |
1999 Ford performance white (base coat clear coat)Sherwin Williams NAPA  | ||
| Sportyeric |
I had my S2's header welded some time ago. Probably put 50k miles on it since. Don't throw out your cracked one. They're getting rare. | ||
| Ratbuell |
DO NOT START AT THE MUFFLER!!! When tightening an exhaust, get everything loosely fitted. Then, start AT THE HEAD. Follow the exhaust path. Head/flange bolts. Then front hangar. Then muffler inlet. Then muffler hangar. If you start at the bottom, you run the very strong possibility of bunching something up and binding components, which is what causes the cracking in the first place. | ||
| Steveford |
I've seen factory literature list both ways: start at the headers and start at the muffler. Starting at the headers makes the most sense and make sure that everything is hanging where it wants to be. | ||
| Clydesdale |
Butch: headers arrived in great shape, installed and look great. I don't seem to have had any problems getting them torqued, got everything snugged in place first, then started at the heads and worked my way down. Seem to have an occasional leak at the head, but fades as it warms up, is this normal expansion, or do I still need to retorque them again?. Used "Jims gaskets " install tool , and it seemed to seat the gaskets well. | ||
| Dannybuell |
I have been following this thread with great curiosity. Every time I came back and read 'start at the muffler' I still couldn't understand why. Sometimes it takes me a while to figure things out. :-) In 107,000 I have taken headers on and off my S1 more times than I care to remember. To me the head to header fit is the most critical so I start at the head using the tapered gasket. By now the header is mostly tight. I wiggle fit everything else into place. At this point I tighten my way back to the muffler... I had the usual front tab re-welded. I got smooth crescent puddles all the way around the tab for very little $. It helps to know a welder. He told me stainless gets brittle, when that happens there is nothing to work with... | ||
| Ebutch |
Polish them and and they will be mirror quality. Time will tell I use taper type gaskets. The headers where on this 1996 S2t I am restoring slowly.  (Message edited by ebutch on May 19, 2016) |
