Author |
Message |
Dunlop
| Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 11:40 am: |
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Hello Today I wanted to start my S1 after circa 1,5 year (It was parked in my garage the whole time). But when I looked into the oil tank, there was not a single drop of oil! What do you think? I haven't check my gearbox yet, but I think it is probably in there |
651lance
| Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 11:50 am: |
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Don't add any more oil, its all sitting in the bottom of your crank case. This happen to me S2 every spring. what I do is pull the oil cap and start the bike. The oil will start flowing back into the oil tank over the next couple minutes. Don't rev the bike, just let it idle. |
Dunlop
| Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 11:57 am: |
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Thank you, I was worried that some seal is broken and oil is now in gearbox. Hope that is not my case |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 12:56 pm: |
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It might still be in the crankcase if your main oil seal around the crankshaft is bad. Drain the primary case and see if you get more than a quart, or if it looks and smells like engine oil. The seal is upgraded for 2000 and up, the new one will retro-fit. Many threads here have discussed how to change it. Our engines are dry-sump, with an air pocket around the crankshaft and under the pistons that can hold most of the oil supply. |
Dunlop
| Posted on Saturday, April 23, 2016 - 02:28 pm: |
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I started the bike, and oil immediately started flowing into the oil tank. So, it looks like everything is good. At least I hope. Thank you guys |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2016 - 08:25 am: |
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You'll probably find a massive oil puke from the breathers too. |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2016 - 09:23 am: |
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You are planning to run it until it gets hot and change that oil, right? |
Dunlop
| Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2016 - 11:28 am: |
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You'll probably find a massive oil puke from the breathers too. Why do you think? I had it started for few mins yesterday, and everything looked good. Harleyelf: This oil in my bike is 1,5 years old (motul full synthetic), but I drove on it only like 65 miles. No idea if oil can get old by itself after one year, but I will change it just in case |
Lakes
| Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2016 - 06:13 pm: |
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if it was me i would get rear wheel off ground & bike in gear, remove spark plugs & turn motor over by hand with it switched off. Before i tried to start it. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2016 - 08:53 pm: |
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Don't change it but run 10 miles or so to get moisture out of oil. |
Hybridmomentspass
| Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2016 - 10:01 pm: |
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"if it was me i would get rear wheel off ground & bike in gear, remove spark plugs & turn motor over by hand with it switched off. Before i tried to start it." what I do. spin it over by hand to get things moving SLOWLY then hit the ignition, still plugs out, to get it turning a pumping a little more to help build up pressure. Then plugs in, everything checked, hit the button and we're good to go. About a year after owning the bike it sat for a few months and this happened to me, I put a quart in it thinking it was low. Fired it up, had the seat off, left the garage for, literally, a minute. Came back and noticed my oil filler cap was missing. Found it about ten feet away, had shot up from the excessive pressure |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Monday, April 25, 2016 - 12:49 am: |
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Full synth should not decompose even after a year and a half, but as the Triumph T120 Bonneville owner's manual says, "Oil is cheaper than bearings". Plus, you get to look for shavings and chunks in the oil. Is your oil pump drive gear upgraded? |
Dunlop
| Posted on Monday, April 25, 2016 - 03:34 am: |
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Don't change it but run 10 miles or so to get moisture out of oil. And change it afterwards or there is no needs to change this pretty much new full synth? Before I started it, I checked gearbox if everything was alright (if there is no engine oil in there), changed the oil pressure switch for a new one (just in case, it was pretty old), then I pulled the oil cap, and then started. I haven't added any more oil. To my surprise, bike started immediately, with no problems whatsoever. Plus, you get to look for shavings and chunks in the oil. Is your oil pump drive gear upgraded? The last time I changed the oil, everything was ok. I have no idea if there is stock or upgraded oil gear (no idea if it can be checked by eye), but I have plans to change it this year just in case |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Monday, April 25, 2016 - 12:32 pm: |
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Do a topic search for the drive gear, only a percentage of them were bad but if yours is one of them you might have shiny golden flecks floating on top of your drained oil. 100 km is plenty to get it warm and the water cooked out. I got over 200,000 km out of my 1989 XL with the old-design drive gear. Your rear shock will die long before your motor if you just give it normal care. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Monday, April 25, 2016 - 02:03 pm: |
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That oil gear thing is true. It's a stacking tolerances type of thing. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Monday, April 25, 2016 - 03:02 pm: |
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Well on my S2T 132,000 miles with-out revised oil gear.But on Total Rebuild was installed. |
Lakes
| Posted on Monday, April 25, 2016 - 05:12 pm: |
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Harleyelf is the T120 Bonneville the new water cooled model? or the old T120 |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Tuesday, April 26, 2016 - 11:09 am: |
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The old (650cc) one came with an owner's manual which explained the need for fresh oil every one thousand miles. "Oil is cheaper than bearings", it advised. The transmission teeth were so brittle the gearbox had a shelf cast into it to catch the spit-up chunks. Never broke a gear myself, but my brother blew up two gearboxes. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Tuesday, April 26, 2016 - 11:33 am: |
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In my BSA days 1960s recondmened non detergent because of foameing in early days of detergent oil.So we had to change oil hot to get rid of contaments every 1000 miles.But by 1970s Kendall had deterdgent motorcycle oil that could stand up to heat of air cooled and not foam.Hence the 2000 mile oil. (Message edited by ebutch on April 26, 2016) |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Tuesday, April 26, 2016 - 12:31 pm: |
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Yes, my 1974 750cc Bonneville did not have the same instructions in the owner's manual as the 1968. Not due to an improvement in engineering (God forbid!) but because of an improvement in oil formulation. The 750cc triple "Trident" was designed in 1964 but the board felt it was not wanted by the public. It went into production six months after Honda's 750 went on sale, in 1969/1970. Five years of lost sales because of bureaucratic obstinacy. Harleys of that era used straight 50 weight. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Tuesday, April 26, 2016 - 01:42 pm: |
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My bikes BSAs 1966 - 1998. (1966 Lightning 654) (1968 Lightning 654) (1970 Thunderbolt 654) (1971 Rocket Three 750 )(Triumph with a badge change)1968 to 1970 these Won Daytona. Triples where the Fastest in the World.Plus did not need an electric starter,could start sitting down easy Kicking!!!!Rocket was a gas Hog 26 mpg.But King of the Road. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Tuesday, April 26, 2016 - 01:45 pm: |
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Oops missed one 1971 Thunderbolt 654. Cooler weather Straight 40 wt Hot weather straight 50 wt (Message edited by ebutch on April 26, 2016) |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2016 - 12:49 pm: |
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The BSA rocket three had its engine sitting at a different angle from the Triumph triple. Similar, but not quite a clone. The Trident front end fit right on to my 650 Bonneville. The disc brake was a big improvement over the drum. Drove it like that for years. |
Ebutch
| Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2016 - 02:12 pm: |
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BSA Cylinders slight canter forward.The engine was three triumph 250s bolted together.later years Triumph used up BSA clones in Tridents. inside my shed 1979 Rocket Three ahead of grinder |
Ebutch
| Posted on Wednesday, April 27, 2016 - 11:02 pm: |
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BSA Rocket III |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Thursday, April 28, 2016 - 01:25 pm: |
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Very cool. |
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